For those of you that did the 3-link, where did you put the battery?
Well I got most of the hard parts done last night with the 3-link, got all the old spring tubes cut out, UCA mounts cut and grinded down and the 3-link to frame bracket installed. But now I run into more issues, I had to undo a lot of my wiring as I had my computer and relay box in the trunk and my battery mounted flush with floor and this all interfered with the 3-link so I cut it all out. I do not want to put the battery in the engine compartment. I know they sell those black boxes but that would take up a lot of trunk space and with the computer, relay box and fire supression system in the trunk I am limited on space already.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
I used the FFMetal box in the trunk just to the right of the left gas tank vertical mount. The right corner of the battery box clears the 3 link bracket. HTH -- Bill
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Rcvd MK3.1 6/2011 with 3link
Using 98 DOHC w/ Vortech T45, PS, PB, ABS, AC
Thanks for the picture, yours is a little more to the DS than mine. I am needed about 1/2 and inch so maybe tonight I'll cut out some floor aluminum and get it moved over.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
I put mine up front and used one of the Breeze bat box kits. I know there are several installs with it in the trunk, but this just didn't meet my needs so up front it went.
I know you said you don't want it up front but it is actually the better place for it. Better weight distribution and it can go in the front passenger corner with the Breeze kit. People don't even see mine mounted so low and you could cover it easily if you wanted.
Short wires, cheaper to install with less materials, better performance/weight distribution...
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09, First start 2/28/11, gokart 10 minutes later
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Satisfied customer of: Factory Five Racing, Mike Forte, Breeze Automotive, Whitby Motors, Herb's Door Panels, Cobra Heat, Stewart Transport, Wayne Presley (Very Cool Parts), North Racecars, and Finish Line
I know you said you don't want it up front but it is actually the better place for it. Better weight distribution and it can go in the front passenger corner with the Breeze kit. People don't even see mine mounted so low and you could cover it easily if you wanted.
Short wires, cheaper to install with less materials, better performance/weight distribution...
My main issue with that is all my wires are already ran and I do not have much room along the tranny tunnel to run some big gauge wires. I had to run so much wire to the trunk for the computer and relay that I was fighting for room to run thin brake line tubing for the fire supression system.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
Did you mount the box to the left of center? FFMetal is set up for two mounting location. Center for IRS and a little to the left for 3-Link. Just barely clears the diagonal 3-Link brace. My issue was with the Girdle on my Differential. My diff. cover hit so I modified the box to clear. Standard diff. covers should have no issues at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoaFan08
That is currently what I have but the box hits the 3-link bracket, maybe it's different with the MKII?
Did you mount the box to the left of center? FFMetal is set up for two mounting location. Center for IRS and a little to the left for 3-Link. Just barely clears the diagonal 3-Link brace. My issue was with the Girdle on my Differential. My diff. cover hit so I modified the box to clear. Standard diff. covers should have no issues at all.
It was mounted to the left but I was still hitting the 3-link brace, I only need like 1/2 and inch so I may just cut the hole bigger to the left and slide it over.
You can't believe how long I looked at this last night and that never occured to me. Instead I spent who knows how long trying to find where I could move the battery to lol. Guess that is what I get for trying to do something on the car late at night after working a 12 hour day.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
I don't remember the details but I managed to fudge mine over to the left using the stock FFR stuff
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
I used the stock FFR battery tray when I did mine years ago. I just moved it 5.5" toward the driver side and it cleared. Maybe you could cut a little slot in the box where it hits the 3 link bar, just enough to get it over far enough, that way you wont have to do anything with your wires. Good Luck with it.
FFR 7330 Delivered 9/18/10
Powdercoated silver & rolling 10/22/10
Machine work done on 331 2/3/11
Body Painted Raven Black 6/17/11
Wiring done 12/19/12
First Start and mini go-cart 1/1/2013
As others have suggested, FFMetal box, but well to the left. You don't want to just clear the 3-link diagonal brace and differential cover, you want to be sure and do so at full bump (suspension compression).
I mounted mine in the back right corner of the trunk to balance weight from my not very skinny butt in the drivers seat. A short 2 gauge ground cable to a ground bolt welded on the top of the shock mount and a hot 2 gauge cable through a panel pass through and down the transmission tunnel to the battery shut off switch. I used a type of battery terminal that has a 200 amp fuse at the positive terminal.
Ron
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Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
As others have suggested, FFMetal box, but well to the left. You don't want to just clear the 3-link diagonal brace and differential cover, you want to be sure and do so at full bump (suspension compression).
Bill
I mOved the box over and it clears the brace but your post gave me a worry about full drop. After looking at it if the car dropped enough that they hit wouldn't I have a bigger issue since they both bolt to the frame?
I have plenty of room on the differential cover.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
So then why are you trying so hard to put it back there?
Just put it in the engine compartment. I have the Breeze Holder and its so low and inconspicuous that it doesn't detract from the engine, imho. You could probably build a nice cover for it too if you really wanted to and make it even nicer if that is the goal. Just my 2c
I might be hallucinating but I vaguely remember a post about putting one in the driver's pedal box area???? Can anyone else confirm If this correct or if I need to go get drug-tested?
Good luck figuring this out. - Michael
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FFR 7386 MK IV Roadster
302 Block/347 Stroker/Mass-Flo/TKO 500/8.8 Moser Rear/Manual Brakes & Steering
Build Began 12/6/2010
First Start 11/18/2011
Go Kart 11/24/2011
Registered and on the Road 8/11/2012
Paint Winter-2012 at Metalmorphous
Picked up from Paint 4/6/2013. Awaiting graduation pics to make it official! My Build Project Website
I think that was passenger footbox. Several have mounted an Optima or similiar there.
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
If you are still worried remove your coil overs and jack up the three link all the way up. If nothing hits you are good to go. The only other concern, and I am not certain that this is the case, is with the fuel tank support. Vertical 3/4" tube where our tank strap attaches. It is supposed to be able to move forward in a rear end accident. If you are too far left you may end up with the box in front of the brace. Having said this, the car is a basically a go cart with 500 Horse Power. Not sure all of us buy these as a safe daily driver. I think of mine as an overpowered motorcycle with doors. In otherwords, don't crash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoaFan08
I mOved the box over and it clears the brace but your post gave me a worry about full drop. After looking at it if the car dropped enough that they hit wouldn't I have a bigger issue since they both bolt to the frame?
So then why are you trying so hard to put it back there?
Just put it in the engine compartment. I have the Breeze Holder and its so low and inconspicuous that it doesn't detract from the engine, imho. You could probably build a nice cover for it too if you really wanted to and make it even nicer if that is the goal. Just my 2c
I might be hallucinating but I vaguely remember a post about putting one in the driver's pedal box area???? Can anyone else confirm If this correct or if I need to go get drug-tested?
Good luck figuring this out. - Michael
Well if the battery is still flush with the floor then it wouldn't take any room from inside the trunk. Couple reasons why I wanted to keep it there:
1) I 2 disconnect switches, one in the main cabin when driving it and another hidden in the back portion of the car to make it harder for someone to start the car. I would have to run the cables from the front of the car, to the rear and then back to the front.
2) I have my computer and relay box mounted in the trunk and I had to run so much wire for those that my tranny tunnel is already packed and I do not see a safe way to run 2 thick battery cables in that space.
3) Lazyness? For me to move the battery to the front would require a lot of work as i would have to move a lot of wire, drop the transmission and redo a lot of the car wiring I already have done. I would like to not drop the transmission as I hate having to put it back in on my back in the garage.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
In the trunk, way over against the pass side wall in a compact black plastic box. Easy to access, better for weight balance, simple in-line battery disconnect.
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FFR5148K MkII Roadster, FRP 306 345HP w/ carb, 3-link, disc brakes, Still Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.
If you hadn't thought about it, you've already got your main wires run through the tunnel and just need to cut off the battery clamp in the rear. It would be some work to drill the holes for the new battery box up front, but if the car is already running and wired up, you've already got your main power source running to the back of the car in the form of your main cable. You could get a larger gauge distribution block, something like what is used for car audio perhaps, and connect your main large gauge wires at one central point up front. Something similar to this would potentially do the job for you I would imagine: 0-Gauge T Power Distribution Block - Midnight Chrome Finish MST-0 - $7.97 : .
HTH, good luck with the decision.
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-Mk 3 #4900, home built '94 408W, Tremec 3550, 3.55 IRS, FFR 9"/10.5" wheels and 255/40Z17 - 315/35Z17 Nitto NT-05, ISIS...didn't follow the budget at all but having a blast. First go-kart 21 Sep 2011!
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