Looks great. Is the entire surface coated? Can the polished portion be masked off and the rest coated? I have been contemplating doing the same thing. My FFR Halibrands look OK but the lug covers do not match the wheels. Also, the rear side of the wheels were not coated well at all. Not sure why but the wheels are painted as apposed to powdercoated.
I actually received a call from the wheel manufacturer stating that the wheels were made in China and that because of the coveyor process used at the plant they could not get a good coating on the inside of the wheel. He actually sent a photo of the conveyor. Not exactly what you want to tell a customer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoaFan08
Can't wait till I'm done grinding so I can get the suspension done and get these mounted!
__________________
Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
Location: Somewhere between Arkansas and Colorado....
Posts: 1,992
Looks great, but I would be very WEARY of powdercoating any aluminum wheel, esp from china. Unless the coater knows exactly whay they are doing, and has the specialized equipment to do wheels I would not put them on my car.
Looks great. Is the entire surface coated? Can the polished portion be masked off and the rest coated? I have been contemplating doing the same thing. My FFR Halibrands look OK but the lug covers do not match the wheels. Also, the rear side of the wheels were not coated well at all. Not sure why but the wheels are painted as apposed to powdercoated.
I actually received a call from the wheel manufacturer stating that the wheels were made in China and that because of the coveyor process used at the plant they could not get a good coating on the inside of the wheel. He actually sent a photo of the conveyor. Not exactly what you want to tell a customer.
Yes, the entire surface is coated. The place I took them to told me they could do the lip a different color but when I am all done I am just going to call a pin strip guy to a small line on the lip to match the paint.
I also had them do my lug covers at the same time so they would match perfectly.
__________________
MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
Looks great, but I would be very WEARY of powdercoating any aluminum wheel, esp from china. Unless the coater knows exactly whay they are doing, and has the specialized equipment to do wheels I would not put them on my car.
It's all about the temp that they bake them at, the place I took them to is a race shop and they know not to bake them higher than 500*. These are Team III rims which I believe are made in the US and are 1 piece so they can handle a little more heat.
__________________
MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
Location: Somewhere between Arkansas and Colorado....
Posts: 1,992
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoaFan08
It's all about the temp that they bake them at, the place I took them to is a race shop and they know not to bake them higher than 500*. These are Team III rims which I believe are made in the US and are 1 piece so they can handle a little more heat.
as long as the powder they use fully cures at a low temp SHOULD be ok. Conventional powder, conventional methods are risky.
as long as the powder they use fully cures at a low temp SHOULD be ok. Conventional powder, conventional methods are risky.
Google it, you will see examples of failures.
I use to race motorcycles and know bad things can happen if the coater cooks the wheels too hot and too long. I always suggest you ask your coater what temps and methods he uses and then make your decision. I found this out the hard way, had a front rim break on the track.
__________________
MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
I talked to my local powder coater that does most of Boeings work and lots of stuff for hot rods and sports cars. He has the best reputation and is a real smart guy. He had several points.
1. The normal temp for powder coating is 400F and a normal cycle is 45 minutes. There are lower temperature powders (220-240F) but they do not give a good finish and are available in limited colors.
2. He is aware that 400F is close to the annealing point of most aluminum alloys and methods of making the wheel. ie. cast, centrifugal cast, billet CNC, forged, etc.
3. He does't like to do cast wheels unless he knows the type of aluminum, but he has never had a wheel come back that he could attribute to a heat related powder coating problem. He has done lots of aluminum wheels for a big manufacturer of off road wheels and he also does wheels for several sports car racing preparation shops in the Northwest including the biggest Porsche shop that preps a lot of race cars.
4. He does a lot of work for Boeing and Boeing does not do powder coating on ANY aluminum part by policy, nor does any other aerospace vendor that he is aware of in the Seattle area because of the heat issure.
I think the jury is still out on whether or not to PC aluminum wheels, but a lot of the wheels on factory produced cars are powder coated like on my tow truck. I wonder if some of the PC shops are really heating the aluminum a lot hotter than they think they are because their process control is not the best or they are not heating and cooling them as gradually as they should.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Location: Somewhere between Arkansas and Colorado....
Posts: 1,992
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROADRACER83
All:
I talked to my local powder coater that does most of Boeings work and lots of stuff for hot rods and sports cars. He has the best reputation and is a real smart guy. He had several points.
1. The normal temp for powder coating is 400F and a normal cycle is 45 minutes. There are lower temperature powders (220-240F) but they do not give a good finish and are available in limited colors.
2. He is aware that 400F is close to the annealing point of most aluminum alloys and methods of making the wheel. ie. cast, centrifugal cast, billet CNC, forged, etc.
3. He does't like to do cast wheels unless he knows the type of aluminum, but he has never had a wheel come back that he could attribute to a heat related powder coating problem. He has done lots of aluminum wheels for a big manufacturer of off road wheels and he also does wheels for several sports car racing preparation shops in the Northwest including the biggest Porsche shop that preps a lot of race cars.
4. He does a lot of work for Boeing and Boeing does not do powder coating on ANY aluminum part by policy, nor does any other aerospace vendor that he is aware of in the Seattle area because of the heat issure.
I think the jury is still out on whether or not to PC aluminum wheels, but a lot of the wheels on factory produced cars are powder coated like on my tow truck. I wonder if some of the PC shops are really heating the aluminum a lot hotter than they think they are because their process control is not the best or they are not heating and cooling them as gradually as they should.
Ron
I agree on all aspects
I operate a powdercoating line as part of my business. All of my training and suppliers do not recommend doing it without the specialized powders and process controls (temp monitoring, destructive testing etc). Shops that do this exsist, but are rare.
Someone may say they have done hundreds or have driven thousands of miles, but it only takes one small failure to be disastrous.
People a lot smarter than me have warned against this, and examples of failures are plentiful. People just need to be informed that something as benign sounding as "painting" some wheels (or a scuba tank) could be deadly.
I know there have been SCUBA tank explosions, with fatalities, involving aluminum tanks weakened during powder coating.
__________________
Mk II+, Crate 5.0 w/ E303 Cam, 3-Link, TKO500, Mass-Flo, 9psi Powerdyne, Ford Fun Drop Butt Mod, smooth butt mod, wheel arches mod, roll bar mod, steering rack mod, foot box mod, door latches mod. Self painted. This is why it took so darn long! Go-cart 7/29/2010. Licensed as 1965, insured and on the road 8/12. Former user name David Lindquist.
I saw that picture and in one they looked black and another they looked gray. That is what gave me the idea.
Yea I think it was the paint I used, if light hits them directly they look a dark black, if not they look grey. In this picture you can see how black they look.
I should have done two coats
__________________
MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
Welcome to FFCars! The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory
Five.