Why I'll never use rope to change valve seals again
I have an oil burning issue that I was hoping some new valve seals would fix. Not having any fittings on hand to pressurize the cylinder I stuffed some rope in the cylinder so I could remove the springs. When I tried to remove the rope I learned that I was better at tying knots than I realized and could do it without even seeing the rope. This picture shows what I got to once I pulled the head to remove this stubborn rope. Fun.
The silver lining is that with the heads off cleaning out all of the burnt oil deposits is a snap.
Mk III 5035, 3-link with 302. Ottawa, ON
wow - neat trick!! I knew a girl growing up in Ottawa that could tie cherry stems in a knot with her tongue.... must be something in the water.
I did valve springs last month, and it took about 15 minutes to grind apart an old sparkplug and to weld an air fitting to it - throw 60 psi on the cylinder at it's TDC with the car in gear and the safety brake on and that valve isn't going anywhere without a lump-hammer to assist it.
The fitting and a quick disconnect for your compressor are less than $10 (I know, too late for you). New gaskets and all your time, several $100. Lesson learned, but painful. Thanks for sharing with others anyway.
FFR coupe #190 SOLD
RCR GT40 SOLD to Fast and Furious 5 producer
Kirkham #690 (289 FIA) w/427w and TKO 600
1966 GT350 clone w/Boss 347 and TKO 600
1966 Bronco w/289 and 3 speed
1967 Mustang convertible rust bucket (soon to be GT350 clone)
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
A soft nylon rope works great. As mentioned above, you used the wrong kind. Don't stuff the entire length into the cylinder - leave the end hanging out of the plug hole. Then gently turn the crank until the piston pushes the rope against the valves. I've never had any problems doing this.
Chas Randolph Sidney, Ohio FFR 6113, Stock (for now) '91 5.0 EFI, T5Z w/midshift, 3-link, SAI Mod, TurboCoupe rear 3:55's, 17" Team III's, Picked up @ FFR on 5/5/07, First start 10/5/08, Go Cart 9/27/09, Licensed & Legal 9/30/10. Painted 6/3/12. Graduation 8/21/12
I failed basic seamanship but that is a nice knot. To verify your oil use problem take the heads apart and look at the backside of the valves for big goey black deposits , if they are there you have a good shot at solving the problem. If its on the faces you might not be so lucky . Also check the guides by moving the valves up and down 1/2 way out of the guide or just a lttle? if there is a bunch of movement that's bad a little is ok . Be sure to lube everything when re assembled and be sure nothing is sticky .. Bob
FFR5020 MK III Whitby body +paint, sai mod, Tremec,408, Cobra/Oben brakes , Halibrands, mass flo , gas n pipes, levy rad team3 spinners.Fortes driveshaft, pulleys ,and quick release steering
OUCH! Sorry to read this story. I'm sure that was an extremely frustrating event.
I just installed new cams & springs in my 4.6 DOHC with the engine in the car. (Not too fun; 32 springs = lots of time) I used small diameter nylon rope fed thru an aluminum tube that would slide thru the spark plug hole. The DOHC plugs are several inches down in the heads so the aluminum tube allowed me to guide the rope down to and thru the plug hole. No issues removing the rope - but it did cross my mind as a concern. I had all my lifters removed and cams out so the rope would not get pinched by a valve closing.
I didn't push the whole rope into the cylinder, the frayed end shows where it broke as I tried to pull it out (last resort). By that time I had confirmed there was a knot by sliding some tubing down the rope into the cylinder to try to charm it out. I've used this method in the past with no problems but thanks for all the tips on how "knot" to do it this way; you guys must be soccer players to enjoy kicking a guy when he's down I had never heard of any problems with this trick but did find a few other victims online once it happened to me. And if you think using a different kind of rope makes it knot-proof then good luck to you, but until I come across an example of someone getting air stuck in their cylinder I'm reformed to using an air compressor.
Mk III 5035, 3-link with 302. Ottawa, ON
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