Need help on making my decision

[svtjackal]

I just sold my lightning and I am ready to get into a FFR roadster, only still undecided if buying the kit, buying a complete car, or buying a semi completed kit which a local guy has a pretty kick arse build going on and is trying to sell it but like I said I am still undecided.

What I need help on clearing my head right now is that if I go the kit route I was dead set on getting a complete kit (I don't want to be looking around junk yards for parts) but with the 50% sale going on at FFR I am wondering if it's better and cheaper to buy the base kit and get the upgrades at half price

Here is my math on it

$12,990 kit
$399 powder coated chassis
$129 body cut outs
$399 tubular lower control arms
$1299 3 link rear suspension (maybe independent rear still undecided on that)
$599 302 ceramic coated headers
$299 manual steering rack
$799 vintage gauges
$000 original style seats
$1199 halibrand wheels 17x9 and 17x10.5 rear
$99 wind wings
$99 sun visor
$499 vintage wiper
$39 brake duct mesh (just because )
$299 passenger side black roll bar
$479 chassis wiring
$2099 willwood front and rear brake kit
Wilwood Front and Rear Brake Kit - Factory Five Parts Catalog
(this is the right brake kit for the 3link rear suspension right?)

All this upgrades come to $8,735 and with the 50%off is $4,367 for a total of $17,359.50

Can anyone tell me What else does the complete kit has that is not on the upgrades or if I am wrong and I am missing something (is everything I listed eligible for the 50% off ?)

Any help on clearing my head will be appreciated

[ZoaFan08]

I bought a complete car, I wish i would have bought a kit. I pretty much rebuilt the entire thing and the only thing i saved on was the paint job.

If all those options count for 50% off I would do it, that's a killer deal. Also before you order all that stuff have a written build plan, even on my rebuild I wasted a lot of money on things I changed.

[Dan Babb]

Don't forget the cost of shipping (unless you're going to pick it up).

On the partially completed kit, how much work was done and does it come with components you like or would want to upgrade?

On the right 2nd hand kit, you can save a boatload and put that savings into some killer options you might not otherwise want to spend the dough on.

[svtjackal]

For those of you that had the kit shipped, about how much was it, any idea from their factory to Illinois?

Well all th wilwood brake kits are gone, at least at 50% off also forgot to add the cooling system and the fuel system, but I don't mind going with a used mustang fuel tank

Need to add $499 ($250) for their cooling package and another $1050 if I still want the wilwoods

Which brings me to $18,660 if my reasoning is right.

On the partially completed kit, how much work was done and does it come with components you like or would want to upgrade?

Have not seen the car in person only pics but according to him and by going with the Pics, he has some pretty high end items on it already, not something I would have done but very nice items none the less, I just want a good/cool weekend cruiser, also is a MKIII, nothing wrong with that but I would be lying if I say that I don't want or care for the upgrades on the MKIV

Got to Make a decision fast, sale ends at the end of August.

[QSL]

There are tons of bits and pieces in the complete kit. The base kit really relys on you using a donor. So ANY part that could possibly be used off the donor is missing in the base kit.

Problem with me going with a completed car is that everyone has a different level of "acceptable". Some builds i see here are amazing and some scare the crap out of me. Just purely opinion

[steno]

Where in Illinois?

[Richard Oben]

Buy it done, always less money, but buyer beware. Go and inspect the car or have it inspected. Be patient and willing to spend the money on a good car. It takes $30k to build a donor car and do it nice. YES I KNOW THERE ARE OTHERS THAT HAVE DONE IT CHEAPER but that is not reality. A fairly high end build car can be had for about the same money or a little more, but be patient nice cars are out there.

That being said, if you want to build the car, build the car. For a lot of guys that is what it is all about. For others it is about the car.

If you are anal build the car. As no one will be good enough for you. If you just want the car then get a nice one drive it 5 years and sell it for a 10% loss.

Been at this since 1998 and have seen cars that were worth 40 sell for 20 and 20 sell for 30. HTH, Richard.

[Silverstreak02]

Your list is missing a lot of items some big and some small. From the top of my head you need to add the Willwood pedal box, gas pedal, throttle cable, clutch cable, master cylinders and brake reservoirs. I'm sure there are other things in the complete kit, but that's what comes to mind. Remember you will also need to get a rear end to go with the 3 link. If you plan to do a reasonable build with all new parts you need to budget for $35K and plan to spend more. Good luck with your decision. If you want to talk to someone that went with the complete kit shoot me a PM with your phone number.

Jeff

[Rich A]

svtjackal,

If you're going to buy a complete car make sure there is no insulation or carpet!!! Here's the reason.

So you can see the rivet spacing, alignment and quanity!!!

If the builder did not take the time to evenly space, align (in a straight line) or install enough rivets, they probably didn't take the time on anything else.

JMO


As for building a Base Kit vs Complete Kit, you forgot some items.

Shipping
Fuel Tank Components
Pedal Box Assembly
Master Cylinder
Gas Pedal
E-Brake Handle and Cables
Driveshaft
Spindes and Hubs
Rear End

[2FAST4U]

Originally Posted by QSL

There are tons of bits and pieces in the complete kit. The base kit really relys on you using a donor.

Not necessarily true. Money may be an issue for some and need to purchase the needed parts a few at a time. Or in my case, the need to change things to make the car more original

[MPTech]

I'm currently building a basic kit and enjoying it.
It's more work to source the parts, but I'm more happy with doing the research and having the option to pick what I want. (custom Speedhut gauges, Painless wiring harness, Vintage Air heater, power steering, power brakes, mid-shift T5, etc)
Almost all of my parts have been new except my rebuilt 302, T5, and IRS diff / spindles. Everything else has been new or re-man'd.
You can also pick up a lot of good stuff here from fellow forum members. (I picked up a brand new FFR radiator and fuel tank, still in the box!)

Where are you in Il? I have a donor fuel tank, sender, and pump. If you're interested PM me and pick it up. I'm in St Louis. If you pick it up, I'll show you what I'm building and we can compare notes.

[Michael Everson]

An unfinished kit is almost always a great deal compared to starting from scratch. Even if you have to change some stuff to build it your way. You can always sell the parts you change out. There are a few unfinished kits right now for sale.
Mike

[svtjackal]

Yeah, I have been comparing both kits and it's true, the complete kit has a lot of little odd and ends, but I am sure it's possible to get them as I need them right? Like the pedal box can I get that from a vendor or the only options is a mustang or from FFR?

Originally Posted by steno

Where in Illinois?

I'm in Joliet IL.

[Avalanche325]

Here is a quick $110 savings. Order the Wilwood front brake kit and the rear seperately. Don't ask me why. Just the way they have them priced.

[Jack Wojack]

In Illinois you will be asked for serial numbers and pay a sales tax on the Body & Frame (FFR KIT), Engine &Transmission when you register the car. The less that is on your Kit Invoice the less tax you will pay.

Jack

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by Jack Wojack

In Illinois you will be asked for serial numbers and pay a sales tax on the Body & Frame (FFR KIT), Engine &Transmission when you register the car. The less that is on your Kit Invoice the less tax you will pay.

Jack

Didn't know that, thanks for sharing

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by Avalanche325

Here is a quick $110 savings. Order the Wilwood front brake kit and the rear seperately. Don't ask me why. Just the way they have them priced.

I'll check that out, didn't noticed, hope they don't either.

[timp2]

On the complete kit I would save the money and not opt for the body cutouts and do my own.

By the time you figure out what you really need you will have finished building your car and will have spent (at least in my case) about $10,000 more than I had originally anticipated. If someone local has a kit that they have started you may be able to incorporate a lot of that kit into your overall plan and save yourself a bunch of money.

[steno]

If you'd like, cruise up my way and climb all over my car. Get some "hands on" and that will help you make a better decision.
PM me, Sten

[svtjackal]

Ok guys bear with me, got a engine question now, I was going to go with a carbureted 302, but now I am kind of leaning towards a ford racing 5.0 EFI
Ford Racing M-6007-M50 Ford Racing Crate Engines

Technically this is still a 302 but just so I don't make a mistake I still have to order the frame set up for a 302 right? And how about the headers, will the FFR headers bolt up to this engine?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, but I am trying to check everything twice on not make mistakes with this build.

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by steno

If you'd like, cruise up my way and climb all over my car. Get some "hands on" and that will help you make a better decision.
PM me, Sten

Thank you, I'll keep this in mind when I take my vacations

[CraigS]

I you go w/ the Coyote engine be sure to research others who have done that.It's pretty dang new and i am not sure how easy this will be so do a bunch of looking into that. hat is a whole different animal compared to a 302 or 351 carb car.