How hard is gas tank removal?

[rponfick]

I just filled or overfilled my gas tank for the first time and saw gas dripping on the ground. After much searching, I determined the leak was coming from the fuel sender fitting. I have seen where some have had issues with the large rubber seal not sealing correctly.

I included an access panel during the build, but would have to cut the glued down carpet in the trunk and remove rivits and break silicone seal (and then make some sort of tool to remove sealing cam). Is dropping the tank in the 3.1 as simple as it looks, with just removing the two hold down (up) straps, filler tube, and dealing with the fuel line connectors? I think I would reinstall longer rubber fuel lines to facilitate installation and removal again if necessary.

Or, I guess I could just live with it and not fill the tank very full, but that doesn't seem very elegant. Would the fuel gauge need to be re-calibrated?

Any comments from those that have done this.

Ralph

[2yrproject]

I had the same problem with my 3.1 kit after my first fill up. I just purchased a new gasket from the Ford dealer. The tank is easily dropped as you mention to remove the fuel sender and put a new gasket on. I emptied the tank as much as possible to reduce weight and used a piece of plywood to distribute the weight of the tank on the floor jack.

Anyone have any tips for installing the gasket to make sure it doesn't leak ?

Not sure about re-calibrating the gauge.

[Scott L]

Yes - It is that easy. A floor jack with a piece of plywood to support the tank makes this easier.

[Joe]

Dropping the tank is about like you described. Drain it first so you don't have the weight to deal with. 15 gallons of gasoline weighs between 90-100 lbs.. I've had leaks due to the rubber o-ring around the fuel level sender and I've also had a leak due to using a defective donor fuel filler tube gasket. Be careful when loosening the locking ring. You don't want it to go KABOOM.. I kept a fan blowing on the area while loosening the ring.

I seem to remember using a thin coating of grease on the o-ring to help hold it in place and allow things to slide a little without distorting the o-ring during installation.

[BOB SCHAEFER]

Ralph,

Had to change to a larger fuel pump when I switched to my supercharger and found the process easy. Get the car up on jackstands (obviously) and use a floor jack to handle the weight. I didn't lenghten the fuel lines and had no problem putting it back in.

Good luck

Bob

[Crashburndie]

I was able to take off the driver side rear tire, lower the gas tank an inch or two and reach in to remove the fuel sending unit, much easier than dropping the tank. (I also have the battery hanging from the trunk)

[rponfick]

Thanks for the excellent comments. Two more questions, if I may.

Is there an easy way to test (pressure, or otherwise) the tank when gasket is replaced to see if you have solved the problem?

What is best way to get filler neck disconnected? Pull the metal spout out of the rubber donut in the tank, or take the Leman's cap and connector hose off from the other end?

Thanks, Ralph

[weendoggy]

Originally Posted by rponfick

I included an access panel during the build, but would have to cut the glued down carpet in the trunk and remove rivits and break silicone seal (and then make some sort of tool to remove sealing cam). Is dropping the tank in the 3.1 as simple as it looks, with just removing the two hold down (up) straps, filler tube, and dealing with the fuel line connectors? I think I would reinstall longer rubber fuel lines to facilitate installation and removal again if necessary.

Ralph

I'm going to ask the dumb question, why did you put an access panel in if it won't help you?

As for dropping the tank, it's easy, but if it's full, I'd take some fuel out or have help because that tank will be HEAVY full andyou will need some help. Otherwise, just put in on a jack and plywood as suggested and make your repair. The lock ring can be removed with a long drift punch and hammer. It shouldn't be that tight.

[rponfick]

Why access panel? It looked like a good idea at the time. But things change.

Ralph

[AC Bill]

I've seen it suggested that you hammer on a piece of wood to drive the locking ring off, so as to prevent sparks. Probably a good idea!

I used Velcro tape around the edges of my lower trunk floor carpet, just in case I have to remove the access panels some day..New builders might keep this in mind..

[Just Rick]

https://www.1stmarineparts.com/produ...INE-DECK-PLATE

[tjmotter]

Originally Posted by rponfick

Thanks for the excellent comments. Two more questions, if I may.

Is there an easy way to test (pressure, or otherwise) the tank when gasket is replaced to see if you have solved the problem?

What is best way to get filler neck disconnected? Pull the metal spout out of the rubber donut in the tank, or take the Leman's cap and connector hose off from the other end?

Thanks, Ralph

I did this exact same thing a couple of months ago. In my case I did the following:

1) disconnected the fuel line from the filter and added a hose so that I could use the electric fuel pump to drain the tank into a DOT approved container.

2) disconnected the wiring and the fuel line (I left the vent line connected)

3) disconnected the fuel filler from the LeMans cap and swiveled it downward so that I could pull it out of the tank as well.

4) dropped the tank (hardest part of the whole job)

5) used a piece of wood and a hammer to remove the locking ring and then removed the sending unit.

6) replaced the seal (it had twisted out of shape which is what caused the leak).

7) put the new seal in place, reinserted the sending unit and then used my wifes extra pair of hands to ensure that the sender didn't move at all while I reinstalled the lock ring.

Went to the gas station, had my wife fill it up while I reached under the backend and placed my fingers on the sender to feel for fluids. It filled to the top with no more leaks.

Note: be very careful when removing the fuel filler hose from the tank! The one that FFR supplies is pretty flimsy compared to the Ford stock unit. I had torn mine early in the build so I had already beefed this up with the Ford part but if you still have the FFR one, it might be a good idea to change it out at this point.

HTH
Todd

[BigLeo69]

now that there is gas in the tank make sure you use non-sparking tools when removing the lock ring, i found an issue with mine but looked thru the gaskets that ffr sent with my complete kit and found that the rings were different diameters i used the larger one no issue.
good luck Ralph be safe and we don't want to see anymore fires in your beautiful state.
Leo

[rponfick]

Thanks Leo. I thought about you as I was trying to solve my problem. I considered squirting a tube of silicone sealer over the whole sender area, but then discovered that gas will dissolve the silicone. On the plan "B", new gasket.

Ditto on the fires.

Ralph

[jlfernan]

I also had a leaking gasket, but it was my fault, I didn't tighten the locking ring enough to lock it when I first installed it. I peeled off the carpet, which ruined it(I had more). Pulled the rivets from my access panels. Pried the silicone and tightened the locking ring. Hardest part was trying to remove the glue residue from the panels. I then replaced the carpet and cut ovals to fit the access panels. Those are now screwed in place in case I ever need to remove them. I felt this was easier than dropping the tanks. YMMV.

[NiceGuyEddie]

be careful, i had a half-full gas tank and it was really heavy.

[cobracruz]

There are sealants that resist gas. One is called High Tack #3, the other is MotoSeal. Both are Permatex. Might be good insurance if you are already taking the tank apart.

[rponfick]

One additional thing I noticed is that the sender wire plastic connector does not seat firmly to the sender body. I think it may have even been loose. In snapping it back it place, it just doesn't seem very firm. May put a dab of epoxy, or something, on it when putting back together.

Thanks, Ralph

[Tennessee Tim]

Originally Posted by rponfick

One additional thing I noticed is that the sender wire plastic connector does not seat firmly to the sender body. I think it may have even been loose. In snapping it back it place, it just doesn't seem very firm. May put a dab of epoxy, or something, on it when putting back together.

Thanks, Ralph

Are you using the Ron Francis harness by chance? If so, the harness uses a really cheap connector that does not snap into place or engage the stay. I had to use a zip tie to hold it into place.

Tim

[BigLeo69]

send me a Pic of the connector i have one from the harness i nipped off because i am using carb and not EFI RF harness

shellac sealant works around fuel if that helps

you could try some solder on the spades or spine then file them to fit the harness connection

some of them will expand a bit too with a small pick

[rponfick]

I am using the Ron Francis supplied harness. It came with the two connectors on the end: one (orange) for electric fuel pump and one (gray) for gas sender. Thanks for offer Leo, but I am using carb also. I plan to maybe squeeze the female connector a bit to make the connection a little tighter (and no snide sexual comments please).

Thanks, Ralph.

[rponfick]

Tenn. Tim, what did you zip tie to? I haven't torn into things yet, but I can't remember anything down there to zip tie to that would hold the connector in place. Maybe you could elaborate.

Thanks, Ralph

[Tennessee Tim]

The zip tie goes along the bottom of the front of the connector on the tank, under the two small tabs on each side of the connector on the tank, and then comes up over the top of the harness connector at the back. It works pretty well. I'll try to remember to get a pic tomorrow.

Tim

[Tatika]

I made a tool for undoing the locking ring for the fuel sender as below. It is useful when removing the ring through an access hole in the trunk. If you are removing the tank, it's not really necessary. It is a PVC reducer fitting available at Lowes, HD etc that's I notched for the fitting tabs.



I really recommend access holes for both the sender and the pump. I'd hate to have to drop the tank a second time. It took me a couple of tries to get it sealed. Unfortunately you don't know if its sealed until you fill up. DO NOT TRY TO PRESSURIZE THE TANK TO CHECK FOR LEAKS.

Here's a pic of the trunk with the access panels. There is also an edged carpet section that covers the access panels and that level of the floor. (folded in pic) The access pales are from a boat supply.



Greg

[rponfick]

Finally burned gas down in tank for easy removal. Was not too hard a job.

The "donut" on the filler inlet pipe was not leaking, but found inner lip split in two places. I've seen posts indicating that some of these replacement parts are better than others. Who makes the best donut?

Ralph