built mine from the bottom up 372W
offset ground stock crank to 3.640 stroke
scat 6.2 rods crank turned to chevy rod journals
kieth black flat top hyper pistons @ .030 bore
balanced rotating assembly
RHS 200 heads
comp cam 510/512 HFT
700 cfm dp mech. sec.
scorpion roller rockers
lunati 8.2 push rods
HP a bit less than torqueupper 400's
opps forgot cost: i will send you the receipts and u can count them up, how much to ship a big drawer about 16x16x8 thats where they go and i don't want to count it up
"Torque is the grunt
that gets us going, and Horsepower
is the force that keeps us moving"
MK3.1 #6945 her name is Buffy
p/u 04/04/09 roller 08/27/09
start-up Pearl Harbor Day 12/07/10
go-cart Memorial Day 2011
body on 11/11/11 Veterans Day
all legal except paint 02/12/12
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
351 Windsor bored and stroked to 383
16lbs of Vortech boost
650rwhp with pump gas and a safe tune
Cost close to 8K with all the goodies to support the boost and a tune.
Its a lot of HP and it scares me every time I drive it so I respect it.
I guess 450-500 is a good balance for the chassis so I would shoot for that.
My build ,a roadster (my first ) is on a tight budget so i purchased my engine from my mechanic. It is a stock 5.0 HO out of a Thunderbird coupe owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church on Sunday and to bingo on Wednesday night ! Fancycar Guy !
Stock block 5.0 (302 CuIn)
Don't know the HP at the crank or the rear wheels.
And if you believe that, bring your cash and your car and we'll do our best to disprove what I just wrote . . . ROTFLMAO!
I love playin' the "Street racer's BS game" . . . did it all thru High School and suckered quite a few into thinking twice about what I was advertising.
A gentleman never discusses what's under the hood . . .
little block, BIG BLOCK . . . HUMMMMMMM? FFR3712K (POPSDRM) in Lost Wages, NV. MKII, 5.0, GT40-EFI, E-303, T5, 17" 5-Lug Chrome Cobra "R's", 315's, PBR 4 wheel Disks, Full Tubular suspension, Flaming River, 3.73:1 3-Link, Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, Footbox Air vents, Custom Turn Signals, Custom 4-into-4 headers, Non-Donor build, Ford Royal Blue Pearl w/ Arctic White stripes.
Dyno?...I am guessing 580hp 550tq
Cost?...~12K complete, my wife could tell you to the penny.
FFR6966 - MK3.1, IRS, AFR 205 headed 408w, depleted bank account, pissed off wife, friends think I'm a hermit, dreaming of driving the Cobr@ someday. My Build Site PS Footbox Mod .pdf.dwg Tire Stencils .pdf.dwg
Stock block 5.0 1992 $250 + honing, tanking, cam bearings $700
Stock crank 1989-donor
Stock rods 1989 -donor
Stock pistons 1989 donor
Thumper performance heads $900
Ford B cam $75
Explorer Upper and lower $150
Less than $2000 did all rebuild work myself about 300 hp with a 355 rear fast enough to use all rpm 1st to 3rd and well into 4th to about 130 mph
I have a 6psi blower ($1000) but its disconnected for now.
Engine Model: 402SR With TW Cam
Horsepower (maximum):455 hp
Torque (maximum): 485 ft.-lbs.
Displacement: 402 cu. in.
Dart Iron Eagle 4-bolt main Sportsman, 9.5” Deck
Forged 4340 Steel (Internally Balanced)
Bore and Stroke:
4.00” x 4.00” Connecting
Rod Type: Forged 4340 Steel “H-beam”
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Wiseco Forged w/ Plasma Moly Rings & Lightweight Pins
Timing Chain: Double Roller
Camshaft Info: Roush Proprietary
Lifter Type: Hydraulic Roller
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum
Intake Runner Volume:
185 cc, fully CNC ported
Combustion Chamber Volume: 61 cc
Valve Sizes: 2.02” Intake 1.60” Exhaust
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.6:1
Edelbrock Performer RPM Dual Plane
Holley 770 CFM Carburetor w/ vacuum secondaries and electric choke
Max. Recommended RPM: 6,500
Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
29 to 33 degrees @4,000 rpm (not to exceed 33)
Steel, 157 tooth, (Balanced to 0 oz.)
FFR 7570, 402sr ROUSH 500HP, TKO 5 speed, Gordon Levy's Wilwood brakes, IRS 327gears Torsen Diff, Forte's Hydraulic Clutch, 15to1 AGR Power steering rack and lots.... LOTS more it never seems to end?
TEMPTATION: because willpower is no match for Horsepower!
Stock top/center oiler 427 FE.
Stroked Rotating Kit. Forged Pistons, H Beam Rods.
Original Ford 427 Single 4V Aluminum Intake. Side Winder.
Edelbrock 72cc Aluminum Heads, Ported.
Crane Roller Cam, Lifters, Rockers with shafts, spacers, and stands.
Edelbrock Aluminum Water Pump.
Ford Balancer. Balanced to Rotating Kit.
Ford Original Distributer with Pertronics Kit.
Holley Original Carb with End Floats.
This with all machine work……… Currently, $8,726.82, give or take a little.
Horse Power at this time is only estimated, based on other builds like this one, but shows to be around 510 – 540….. on paper.
Like Don, my wife can tell you to the penny, on all of it. I don’t really want to know that.
Note; A bunch of this came from E-Bay, This site, and others like it. Lots of shopping around.
351W bored 30 over
Edelbrock intake/water pump
Holley 670 carb and fuel pump
Comp Cams camhaft
Hyperutetic pistons 10:1 ratio
Pertronix distributor and coil
Iron heads W/roller tip rockers and guideplates
Computer programs have my motor around 370 HP but I have not had it on a dyno
I built my motor myself for $2500
In my opinion, I think 350-400 HP is perfect for these cars
1974 351W, Holley 670, Tremec 3550, 95 GT rear w/3.27's and Fox conversion. 4 wheel stock disc brakes. Picked up kit on 10-06, finished 10-09.
FFR6682 - received 7/30/08 - MK 3.1 complete kit, Forte built Ford Racing BOSS 427W(475hp/500lbs), TKO600, Power Steering/Brakes, VPM Front/Rear sway bars, Bump steer kit, SAI mod, 13"Front/11.65"Rear Cobra rotors w/calipers, GoodYear F1-255/40R17-Front, 315/35R17-rear,3.55 IRS.
Started as an '89 5.0. I had the machine work done locally then I built it up with forged TRW pistons, Sealed Power rings, Clevite bearings, ARP fasteners, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads with upgraded springs, stage 1 cam, roller rockers, Street Heat EFI intake with 24# injectors and 70MM throttle body. Probably other stuff I'm forgetting but I'm under $3,500 all in. Trick Flow tells me the combination should be in the neighborhood of 350 HP. Fairly inexpensive on a HP per $ basis. Never been dynoed so I don't know how close that 350 number is although 1/4 mile trap speed of 116 (with a 12.2 ET due to lack of traction) kind of backs it up. Whatever it is it's fine for the way I use it
Stock block, stock bottom end (125$)
home ported head/intake/exhaust manifold
52lb CFI injectors (j-yard)
stock T3 turbo
small NPR intercooler
20psi of boost
35 shot of nitrous (as needed)
It put down 266rwhp on a mustang dyno... dunno why the dyno operator insisted running the car in 2nd gear. The pull lasted about 1 seconds and I think it would have put down closer to 280-300rwhp in a taller gear. It doesn't make sense that a 3100lb car making 266rwhp goes 12.2's in the quarter.
All total, it is probably around $500. Cheap fun.
Ohh wait, wrong car. No engine bought for the FFR yet, but it will be a coyote 5.0. I will look for a donor engine from a 2011+ mustang, but budgeted incase I can't locate one.
600cid Ford aluminum block
Kaase BOSS 9 heads with raised intake ports
Keyed Jessel lifters
Custom COMP solid roller
Cost - unknown
1,130 flywheel HP at 7,000 rpm
The internals will allow 1,000 HP of nitrous if I need it
Yard Dog FFR 521, 572 - Fire Ant Mongrel Cobra 393,521,566, Boss 600 Hemi - RCR #13 GT40 348
after a 2,000 mile bunk of a 306, i reused my accessories and put them on a 347. my engine was built by the amazing guy in the top photo - a hookup from our fastest SoCal local No Tread Tommy G. he built his engine, and Tommy runs 9.99 on a drivable street car. and the builder's personal Saleen Mustang runs 8's. okay you don't want to hear all this....
of course, it was done in a garage, i have no "real" warranty, but when you consider the care he took for the engine... cleaned every part, it was balanced so well you could spin it by hand... i say there is no comparison.
he used to be the lead engine builder for a well-known "High Performance" company on the "Coast"... i wont' say the name but he did not have a lot of good things to say about the assemblers there, the cleanliness of the shop, and the way they do business.
Probe Pistons w/ upgraded tool steel wrist pins
Billett Aluminum Main Girdle
ISKY roller cam
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Ford Motorsports Rocker arms
Holley 570 Street Avenger
Levy Oil Pan
i dunno ~425 HP? (i have bigger carb yet to be tuned.)
i'd guess ~$4,500 from same guy if it was all was new. he gets the parts cheap, the machining cheap, and once again, no "real" warranty, but i'd use him again in a heartbeat. (and i plan to.)
if you look at the websites of our supporting vendors, you will see prices are about the same for each type of engine. about $7K for a turn-key 347, etc. if you are shopping around, your proximity to the builder and shipping cost may very well tip the monetary scale as far as final decision.
i've found our supporting vendors are ~$1500 cheaper for a comparable engine from a "brand name" engine builder. not only that, you have their support.
Started its life as a 94 351 roller block with 50k on it. $300
Stroker kit scat. $1400
Air gap intake $300
Cam, lifters springs etc $1100 ( thanks levy for the help )
Holley 750 do $500
Alt, water pump, timing cover. $350
Fuel pump $80
Rhs 200 cc heads $850
Machining and assembly $2000
We are south of $8000 which is what I expect the total to be once finished
There was a miscalculation by my engine builder which required a second set of pistons, -22 vs -27.5. We haven't worked out which of us is covering that $500 mistake yet.
I'm thinking I'll be around 500 hp. I'm waiting to hear what Gordon's cam is going to sound like.
Currant engine hipo 289 bored and strocked to a 331 12.8 -1 pistons ford lemans cam hipo 289 heads taken to 2.02 valves roller rockers 1.72 cobra intake 850 proform and a dry sump.Do not know hp on this but revs 9500 between shifts. SIT DOWN AND HOLD ON
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