I recall others saying the MK4 fit OK. The fit isn't super critical though. Also could be adjusted very easily with a sabre saw if something is way off when you put the body in place. I think you're very safe making a body buck from those plans.
I built mine using drawings that date back to Mk1. I've used it for both Mk3 and Mk4s with no issues. Although with the Mk4s rolled rockers it may not be as critical as with earlier versions I still think it's a good idea to use the brace across the cockpit when moving the body around.
I built mine using drawings that date back to Mk1. I've used it for both Mk3 and Mk4s with no issues. Although with the Mk4s rolled rockers it may not be as critical as with earlier versions I still think it's a good idea to use the brace across the cockpit when moving the body around.
Just measure accurately for the height under the buck to clear your frame on jack stands. For some reason I thought I did it correctly but ended up having to add taller casters to clear the frame by just 1.5" with the jack stands on the lowest setting. If I did it again, I would use shorter plywood ends but maybe 2x6 corner posts for strength. That would give me more room under the body to have the frame on a higher jack stand settings. I did Stan's plan but for some reason I ended up with a taller rear plywood It works though.
And add a brace across the cockpit just to help support the side of the body. I actually added two vertical braces on the buck. One for the front cockpit and one at the rear of the cockpit. You can just barely see the rear brace in my photo.
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Mark IV Roadster Non-Donor Base Kit: Ordered 1/27/12 Pick up 3/10/12 at FFR - "The Plan" Ford 302 Crate Motor...stroked?... Ford 8.8 /3.73 gears, Levy 5-Link, Fast Freddy Electric Steering, Heater/AC, Hydroboost, Wilwood Upgraded Brakes, 17" Halibrands, Color...Undecided?
On a Mk4 the rocker panels roll under and then continue horizontally. In addition to a cleaner look it allows the body fasteners to be hidden on the underside. The benefit as far as the cockpit brace is concerned is that the body is now somewhat stronger in the vulnerable area below the doors:
Earlier bodies stopped at frame level with no horizontal return and used visible "Frankenstein bolts" in the sides for attachment.
On a Mk4 the rocker panels roll under and then continue horizontally. In addition to a cleaner look it allows the body fasteners to be hidden on the underside. The benefit as far as the cockpit brace is concerned is that the body is now somewhat stronger in the vulnerable area below the doors:
Earlier bodies stopped at frame level with no horizontal return and used visible "Frankenstein bolts" in the sides for attachment.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff: OK now that I reread your original response it makes sense.
Thanks also Tom. LOL. One of the threads you cited was actually mine! I guess I should check my own threads every now and then. Kit is in the garage now!.
OMG ...that's funny! I've responded to a couple of different threads regarding this in the past few months on both forums. But I thought your avetar looked familiar when I copied the thread from the last post
So Im guessing you didn't build the buck ahead of time.
Tom
__________________
Mark IV Roadster Non-Donor Base Kit: Ordered 1/27/12 Pick up 3/10/12 at FFR - "The Plan" Ford 302 Crate Motor...stroked?... Ford 8.8 /3.73 gears, Levy 5-Link, Fast Freddy Electric Steering, Heater/AC, Hydroboost, Wilwood Upgraded Brakes, 17" Halibrands, Color...Undecided?
The manual has plans for the buck near the back. From what I can recall from last weekend when I built mine, the measurements on the thread you posted looked pretty close. I couldn't find a measurement for a MkIV dash-to-cockpit for the support referenced above. Anyone have those dimensions?
OMG ...that's funny! I've responded to a couple of different threads regarding this in the past few months on both forums. But I thought your avetar looked familiar when I copied the thread from the last post
So Im guessing you didn't build the buck ahead of time.
Tom
No never got the chance. At least now I have some more incentive.
I found Bill Haas' plans very good, with the modifications suggested by Laser Stan. Because I live in a condo and have to work in my garage (without being able to move my body outside), I made a couple of modifications. First, I made it as tall as possible (including shortening the end pieces), taking the body and garage door heights into consideration. Second, I strengthened the diagonal side braces and removed the bottom side brace so that I could work underneath the body buck/body more easily. I also made the shelves only 1/2 of the opening width on each side - to get more light to work below and make getting things from shelf easier from below. Last, I got the large wheels (Harbor Freight) so that the whole assembly would move easily. I have been working on my kit for over a year now (with constant moving of buck to work on one end of frame or the other), and the buck has worked well. Also, I made 4 dollies to allow me to move chassis around easily in the garage (also used them for storing/moving rear end around until installed). They've been a great help. Good luck on your build.
OK finished the body buck using Bill/Stan's plans. Couple of things I learned for anybody else doing this:
The plans spec 10 8ft 2X4s but I had 3 left over (although my braces were a little shorter). So even after using 2 of them on the outside edge of the shelves I still had 1 left over.
If you buy the pipe insulation at Home Depot it comes in 6 foot lengths and 3 is more than enough. You may even get away with 2. They come with sticky edges so you don't need the zip ties.
Otherwise the plans are very good and easy to follow.
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It works though.
I've responded to a couple of different threads regarding this in the past few months on both forums. But I thought your avetar looked familiar when I copied the thread from the last post
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