breeze rollbar review

[QSL]

I ordered these a couple weeks. Primarily because we needed a passsenger side bar and the chrome one from FF was really expensive.

The price of the pair of these were cheaper then the one chrome one from them. PLUS... these rake back and are a bit thicker then the originals. We always liked the look of the 2" but they look just a smidge too big. These were great because they are bigger then the original, but smaller then the 2".

So, the bars arrived today. The packaging was very good. When i opened them up, the quality of the bars look fantastic. The finish on them actually looks really good too. You could install these without polishing them in my opinion. (we went with the stainless version over the steel)

One dissapointment was the lack of directions OR tips for that matter. Its pretty straight forward, BUT our body is at paint and he cut the holes in the standard location. So i dont have much to go by here at the house. I am sure i will figure it out and it will look great, but it would have been nice to have a "tips" sheet to build up the confidence.

So here are a few pics with them just sitting on the car. I dont fit with the stock seats very well. I am 6ft and am just about the same hight as the bar. The kirkey seats i just purchased though put me at a distance below that i am comfortable with.

I really like these so far and would recomend them. I will post more pics as we weld them and get them installed for real!!!

[QSL]

pics with stock seats

[QSL]

pics with kirkey seats.

[brian1967]

Looks great, cant wait to see them with the body on.

[edwardb]

The bars look great. Have to say, though, makes me a bit nervous that you have the body at paint with "standard" cutouts and without the fit confirmed first. Hopefully it will work out OK, and at least be within the tolerance of bezels, which I assume you're using.

[QSL]

currently the holes are cutout at 1-1/2 in stock location. Mark has confirmed that stock hole location works. When the body gets fitted Jeff will be modifiying the holes to fit perfectly.

I really wanted to have these before the body was brought there, but i did not know these were on backorder at the time. By the time i found out, it was too late. I think it will all work out.

[convincor]

Retro fitted Breeze bar in Carl Johnson's MK2 with NO hole modifications.

[Carl Johnson]

As Scott posted, MK2, holes were cut back in 2003! works just fine!

[sejust2009]

Looks nice! I also have to mention your headers look great! Are those the special order ones for the FRPP 427W Z heads?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[QSL]

Originally Posted by sejust2009

Looks nice! I also have to mention your headers look great! Are those the special order ones for the FRPP 427W Z heads?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

Yes they are. Much better looking then the hookers that came with it too!

[GT-Tom]

Originally Posted by QSL

I ordered these a couple weeks. Primarily because we needed a passsenger side bar and the chrome one from FF was really expensive.

The price of the pair of these were cheaper then the one chrome one from them. PLUS... these rake back and are a bit thicker then the originals. We always liked the look of the 2" but they look just a smidge too big. These were great because they are bigger then the original, but smaller then the 2".

So, the bars arrived today. The packaging was very good. When i opened them up, the quality of the bars look fantastic. The finish on them actually looks really good too. You could install these without polishing them in my opinion. (we went with the stainless version over the steel)

One dissapointment was the lack of directions OR tips for that matter. Its pretty straight forward, BUT our body is at paint and he cut the holes in the standard location. So i dont have much to go by here at the house. I am sure i will figure it out and it will look great, but it would have been nice to have a "tips" sheet to build up the confidence.

So here are a few pics with them just sitting on the car. I dont fit with the stock seats very well. I am 6ft and am just about the same hight as the bar. The kirkey seats i just purchased though put me at a distance below that i am comfortable with.

I really like these so far and would recomend them. I will post more pics as we weld them and get them installed for real!!!

Nice!
I am in the same boat. I need a PS chrome roll bar and see they are expensive from FFR but I would consider the Breeze bars. Not for the cosmetic changes; I like the FFR bars but for the price it makes sense. My only concern is are they tall enough if I do track days.

Tom

[QSL]

the pictures i posted give a general idea, but there is a good amount of adjustment here so the final hight will most likely be a bit different then what you see here. I will post pics when welded up!

Also, my opinion is that these look better then the FF bars.

[2boss]

Agreed. Those bars look WAY better! Is the Kirkey seat directly on the floor, or is a slider bracket under there too?

[QSL]

Originally Posted by 2boss

Agreed. Those bars look WAY better! Is the Kirkey seat directly on the floor, or is a slider bracket under there too?

just on the floor. But to mount these, you do need some type of brackets because they cant sit flat on the floor. The pics show me sitting in them at the angle i plan to mount.

[MPTech]

QSL, I just got my set of Breeze bars 2 night ago and really like them.

Are you going to run your seat belts on the rollbar cross-brace or the original FFR mounts? I bought the braces, but still undecided.

[QSL]

I struggled with that too, but decided to go with stock location. I was worried that since these are shorter, it would add a stubby look to the car? No strong feeling either way to be honest.

[Scott L]

I can't believe Mark Reynolds shipped anything without directions

[QSL]

I suspect its because they are so self explanitory. But a tips sheet would be appreciated.

[CraigS]

The design is typical of everything Breeze does. Fantastic. I notice that the rearward angle is accomplished by a slight bend in the main hoop.That way you get the rake but it still fits the stock hole location. Brilliant as usual.

[convincor]

If you car has the 1-3/4" stubs, you'll want to use a drum sander or something like and clean up the ID of the tube.

If your car has the 1-1/4" stubs you want the roll bar to stop at arouind 3" above the floor. Don't push it down all the way.

With the rear leg, slip the 1-1/2 tube into the rear reciever stub. All the way in. Get the rear leg in place then slide the 1-1/2" tube up into the rear roll bar leg.

When locating the birds mouth at the top, push it as far as you can to the left and right and mark it. When you weld it put it in the center of your two marks. This will give you a little wiggle room when you go to do the final install.

Remember your heating the tube when you weld it and things can move a little. If you need to adjust a little after to get a nice fit, use something like a 1/2" drive ratchet with a socket that fits into the rear leg. Put a leverage pipe on that and you should able to purswade it whatever way you want.
Remember it will spring back a little so go a little further than needed.

And other suggestions you come up with post here.
Minds working together sometimes helps explain.

[QSL]

Great tips!!! thanks!

[GT-Tom]

I think I am missing something here . What has to be welded? Are the bars completely welded as one piece to the frame? How would you get the body off if ever needed?

I searched a couple of threads but not really clear on the mounting process.

Tom

[QSL]

I can post pics tonight.

The upper portion of the leg needs to be welded to the hoop. There are some tubes that go inside the roll bar and go down to the mounting stubs in the frame. These are the places where you would bolt it together. So to remove with the body on, you would undo these bolts and lift the bar out of the body, i am sure with some manipulation of the bar inserts.

[convincor]

Originally Posted by GT-Tom

I think I am missing something here . What has to be welded? Are the bars completely welded as one piece to the frame? How would you get the body off if ever needed?

I searched a couple of threads but not really clear on the mounting process.

Tom

It's not welded to the frame. The rear leg seam is just below the body .
Sorry its 4 pages , but its all here Roll Bar Genius

[QSL]

used these tips today and i think they came out great. Pics to follow later as well as my own tip!

[QSL]

Here are the pics.

The bars went together very easy. We cut some scrap 3" aluminum and used that as the spacers on each leg to hold the bar in place while they were tack welded.

I would highly recomend these bars to anyone so far. I cant wait to see how they fit with the body.

[QSL]

last two pics.

[MPTech]

QSL, how much are you raising them (3" off the horizontal?) and how tall does that make them? (the other post said they go 19" - 22")

If I remember correctly the stock FFR bars are about 24".

[QSL]

I raised them 3" from the floor on the hoop. I cut two pieces of aluminum 3" and put them under the bar so when i pushed down on it, it came to 3". The rear leg will sit where it wants after that adjustment.

I did not measure after how tall they were, but i would say easy 2" shorter. I can check later tonight. There is definately some room there to move it up or down.

[convincor]

He's not really raising them. He supported them at the height they should be at.
Earlier MK4's and any MK prior has 1-3/4" x 3" stubs welded to the chassis. These work as the stop for the 3" above the floor because there the same size.
Now later MK4's (like above) that have the 1-1/4" x 3" stubs, there's nothing to stop the new bar from going completely to the floor. Which is to low.
What you could do is put the included 3-3/4" stub into the roll bar and drill/bolt it with 3" sticking out. Now that would work as your stop.
So in the end, you should be about 2-1/2" lower than the FFR bar.

And nice job QSL