Lots of pictures on the Forum and elsewhere of dashes in the process of being covered - and it looks/sounds easy enough ...
But I'm pretty visually oriented and am wondering IF anyone has a video ... or a link to a video on YouTube or elsewhere .... that they can share with me.
I'm going to tackle the dash in a day or so - and would value the opportunity to visually prepare .....
Thanks in advance
Lynn
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Retired and living in southern Utah where's it's warm and dry, and where every day is a good day as long as you wake up on top of the dirt!.
FFR 7591 Anniversary Edition (#10 of 15)
Build school: Feb. 2012, Order date: July '12, Delivery date: 23 Sept '12
Lynn, i dont have a video, but i used 3m 90. Worked really good. Couple tips i can give is to spray both the covering and dash nicely with it and let it sit for a minute or two. when you can touch the glue and its not wet, but its tacky, its time to put the two together. Be ready with a large clean flat surface as well as something heavy to put on top of it all. Dont worry about wrapping it around in this step. Let it sit for a day. To wrap it around apply glue the same way and pull it very tight around and back. I used vice grips with lengths of thin aluminum to spread out the pressure so it would not mess up the vinyl. This is probably the hardest part to do, because you are wrapping the material around and it wants to lift. You need to secure it very well. You will also need to cut some V shapes in the material before hand to get it to go around without wrinkles. Make sure the tip of your V cut does not get too close to the dash metal or it will show slightly on the front.
good luck!
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MK4 delivery 12/17/11
Build thread: HERE
Epic First start video HERE
427w ford racing, stainless headers, 3link, tko600, 3.55 gears, Jim Inglese weber intake system and a custom paint job from Jeff Miller!
Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
Build thread: HERE
347 w. stack injection, IRS, Levy arms, Levy front and rear brakes
But I'm pretty visually oriented and am wondering IF anyone has a video ... or a link to a video on YouTube or elsewhere .... that they can share with me.
That would be a great idea.
If you don't find one, think about making one when you do yours.
I just finished covering mine and didn't even think about doing a video, but it would be pretty easy to do. You only have to post it if it turns out good.
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FFR #7124 Mk 3.1, Levy 5 link, LCA's & brakes, 17" Halibrands, electric PS, SAI, Eibach springs, BOSS 427w, webers, hood louvers, tilt front. Delivered 12/23/09, 1st start 02/19/12. 1st go cart 03/03/12. Titled 10/3/12.
"I'm basing it on a collective interpretation of these particular cars. And whatever the hell I like". The Federalist Patriot Build blog: www.myersfamilyffrbuild.blogspot.com
Well, I'm getting ready to do mine, hopefully this Sunday. I will get my son to do some video and see if I can get it posted. The only thing I can add is, I removed my padding on the back of the leather. Not necessary, but I just don’t like that “Puffy” look if you leave it on.
, I removed my padding on the back of the leather. Not necessary, but I just don’t like that “Puffy” look if you leave it on.
Is that different from the padding that Alex provided with his glove box kit?
I used that padding and the dash doesn't look puffy at all. Wonder if it's a firmer padding than the FFR stuff?
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FFR #7124 Mk 3.1, Levy 5 link, LCA's & brakes, 17" Halibrands, electric PS, SAI, Eibach springs, BOSS 427w, webers, hood louvers, tilt front. Delivered 12/23/09, 1st start 02/19/12. 1st go cart 03/03/12. Titled 10/3/12.
"I'm basing it on a collective interpretation of these particular cars. And whatever the hell I like". The Federalist Patriot Build blog: www.myersfamilyffrbuild.blogspot.com
I might suggest not wrapping the excess dash cover material behind the aluminum, at the top edge of the dash.
3/4" to 1" left loose at that point will allow the space between the body and the dash to be filled in. You still want to wrap it over, and behind, the dash outer wings on either side, but just where it begins to curve upwards following the body contour, leave it sticking out. Tuck it in behind, when installing the body.
example
This may not be quite so crucial with the MKIV, as the body edge is rolled slightly, but it still may make a difference.
Make sure your dash aluminum is CLEAN before applying cover. Wipe the aluminum with acetone, or laquer thinner first. I first roughed it up a bit with some scotch pads, for better adhesion. I used paint stir sticks, and those paper type spring clips to hold the edges while the 3M 90 cured. A small paint roller is great for smoothing the cover material down flat.
HTH.. I have never seen a video done of that step..
I used Alex's vinyl. It is two parts. A pad and vinyl. I think the FFr is one piece. Alex's is easier to fold over the Al because it doesnt have the pad attached to the vinyl.
DO NOT trim the guage holes flush, leave some excess (as FFr manual suggests) for the gauge to squeeze into. I hope that makes sense?
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#7619 MKIV IRS complete kit, non donor
351 tko 500
Delivered Nov 13, 2011
First start December 31, 2011
First gocart Jan 12 ,2012
picked up from painter 5/5/2012
Graduation 05/12/201
I did my dash covering in stages, masking off parts until I was ready to glue & wrap the edging over and clamp them down. I used some heavy catalogs for keeping the dash flattened against the covering while curing. Got a dozen paint stir sticks which fit just right, for clamping the edge to the backside. Jim
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Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, rebuilt 89 302 EFI,T-5, Sapphire Blue Met w/ Wimbledon White stripes,painted by Jeff Miller,3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto555 245-315 tires,VPM Banana bracket brace,SAI steering kit, Mods--widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/
Lynn, whatever you do make sure that you will be able to remove your dash after the body is mounted. You may need to add upgrades, replace a gauge or fix something.
Pete
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Mk III #6228, 4.6 SOHC, T45, IRS, I-Squared,17" Halibrands, Red with Silver stripes, Kirkeys, ABS, PS, PB, stereo, cruise control, seat heaters, etc. Kit rec'd 7/07, licensed 2/08, back from paint 5/08, added stuff thru 11/2010. Sold 1/11 @ Barrett-Jackson. Anxiously awaiting 818S!
If you don't find one, think about making one when you do yours.
You only have to post it if it turns out good.
1st off, I'm not sure my GoPro has a big enough memory card to make a video of my dash being covered (it seems to take me days to get stuff done), and #2) pretty sure I slept through my "how to make a movie in 5 easy steps" class in college ---- oh, so many years ago.
But let me see what I can do ...
I appreciate all the offered comments and guidance, and will apply them as I proceed.
I do have some of the special super sticky 3M spray adhesive that I believe is right. The can doesn't look like others I've seen on the Forum - but the upc code "seems" to be right ...08090.
I'm planning use a single layer of separate (not pre-attached to the vinyl) 1/8 foam-ish padding that I got from the local custom upholstery shop, as well as some "upgraded, new and improved" (supposed to hold up better in heat & sunlight, on motorcycle seats and similar) black vinyl.
One question for Jim ("CobraJJ"):
It appears you bent the ends of your dash to "final" shape before covering. I've not seen that done before and wondered if others have done the same and I just missed it.
So off we go --- tomorrow!
Wish me luck!
Thanks
Lynn
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Retired and living in southern Utah where's it's warm and dry, and where every day is a good day as long as you wake up on top of the dirt!.
FFR 7591 Anniversary Edition (#10 of 15)
Build school: Feb. 2012, Order date: July '12, Delivery date: 23 Sept '12
I used the mk3build.com as my main guide when building the car(and this forum). Bent the dash ends using a paint can as the form, and never thought about doing the bend after the dash was covered. I guess either way would work. Jim
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Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, rebuilt 89 302 EFI,T-5, Sapphire Blue Met w/ Wimbledon White stripes,painted by Jeff Miller,3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto555 245-315 tires,VPM Banana bracket brace,SAI steering kit, Mods--widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/
I do have some of the special super sticky 3M spray adhesive that I believe is right. The can doesn't look like others I've seen on the Forum - but the upc code "seems" to be right ...08090.
That's the same stuff, known as the 3M 90 spray. My can was marked the same as yours.
Hey Lynn
Talked to my boy, he will video the process and try to post Monday. I see you are starting on yours, that is the 3M I have as well. The dash leather I have came with the kit and it had the padding already on it. I didn’t like the padded look and it was not wanting to fold over very well, so I scraped it off. This allows the edges to fold over without much resistance. If you have the pad separately, you may want to experiment with it to see if it works over the edges without trying to pull off. Keeping the dash “lose” and not doing a solid mount until the body is in place was good advice from someone on this site when I started, just to make sure the dash fits all the way up to the body. You know if there is a gap when you are done, someone at a show will see it one day and ask if it is for ventilation.
Good luck with your dash and the rest of the build. Post pics when it’s done.
Lots of relief cuts around the gauge holes also make sure you have about 1/16" extra clearance for the covering to wrap around and still get the gauge to seat properly in the hole. I also had the dash padded first and then covered. I did multiple trial fits before covering and had the dash completely formed. Here are some pics.
did you glue down all the relief cuts? do they go all the way to the edge? I noticed the relief cuts on top of the dash do not go all the way to the edge.
Yes they are glued down and yes they do not go right to the edge, I'd leave about a 1/16" of an inch and just pull it tight. Here is a pic from the front. Scott
I actually had the dash padding professionally done so I can't say for sure but from looking at it I believe he used a router with a 45 degree chamfer bit, because he also did the same contouring of the form around the glove box cut out which was an odd shape. So pretty much has to be a router in my opinion. Scott
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FFR #3870 MK II, Spectra Blue/Arctic White, 1974 351W, 9.75/1, Performer RPM 2.02 heads & intake, QFT SS-650, Comp 442, Crane roller top end, Canton pan, BBK headers, Lobak and CC inserts, Crane ignition, HD T5, 3.55 gears, 3 link, Tubular LCA's, Heim joints & VPM F/R bars, Power steering with Hiedts valve, Power brakes, Fortes bump steer kit, 5 bolt axels, SSBC rear brakes, Oil cooler, Pusher fans, Hlibrant Cobra III's with Nitto 555 275/245/17
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