How do you normally wire the tailights? I planned to wire both the upper and lower light red wire as tailights and wire the top light green wire as the brake light and the bottom light green wire as the turn signal. This way both of the lights would serve as tailights. The manual says that the red wire is the dimmer light and the green wire is the brighter light. Is this the normal way of wiring these?
Mine are wired that both are running lights, brakes and turn signals. I wanted max visibility. I let my dad drive the car one night and when I was behind him I noticed how dull one light looked.
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MKII non donor
347 stroker with stacks
3 link, Koni front & rear, 4 wheel disc brakes
Operation Chrome Elimination Underway
Check the wires on those rear lights. On some the red and green wires are swapped. Hook them to a battery and do a check before you finish wire them. Ask me how I know. Also solder the ground wire on to the brass connector. The crimps are prone to let go.
Ron
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Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Follow the advice above, check and verify that the colors go to the element they're supposed to (Green for bright, Red for dim). Many of us have run into the sockets being reversed from another builders setup. Also, be aware that some bulb sockets are not as "tight" as others and it's possible to get the bulbs inserted wrong.
If you're concerned about overall brightness, one option is to wire all four brights to come on during braking and both upper and lower (on the side selected) blink during turn signal operation. To accomplish this, you'll need two relays from Radio Shack, wired into the circuit. This allows a lot more visibility in bright sun (I know, I live in Vegas).
If you're interested in the option, PM me. My circuit can also be used if you're doing the single lens mod (rectangular).
Doc
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little block, BIG BLOCK . . . HUMMMMMMM? FFR3712K (POPSDRM) in Lost Wages, NV. MKII, 5.0, GT40-EFI, E-303, T5, 17" 5-Lug Chrome Cobra "R's", 315's, PBR 4 wheel Disks, Full Tubular suspension, Flaming River, 3.73:1 3-Link, Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, Footbox Air vents, Custom Turn Signals, Custom 4-into-4 headers, Non-Donor build, Ford Royal Blue Pearl w/ Arctic White stripes.
Last edited by Big Blocker; 07-10-2012 at 01:33 PM..
I have a whole package available that explains this drawing more . . .
If interested, pm me.
Any questions, ask.
Disclaimer: This is an early schematic and may not show all connections.
Doc
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little block, BIG BLOCK . . . HUMMMMMMM? FFR3712K (POPSDRM) in Lost Wages, NV. MKII, 5.0, GT40-EFI, E-303, T5, 17" 5-Lug Chrome Cobra "R's", 315's, PBR 4 wheel Disks, Full Tubular suspension, Flaming River, 3.73:1 3-Link, Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, Footbox Air vents, Custom Turn Signals, Custom 4-into-4 headers, Non-Donor build, Ford Royal Blue Pearl w/ Arctic White stripes.
I'll see if I can break away from the "honey-Do" list for a bit . . . after I fix my "won't start" issue . . . seems lately, after I get home from C & C, car won't start again to pull it into the garage after sitting for a while. I may have developed a "heat soak" problem.
Doc
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little block, BIG BLOCK . . . HUMMMMMMM? FFR3712K (POPSDRM) in Lost Wages, NV. MKII, 5.0, GT40-EFI, E-303, T5, 17" 5-Lug Chrome Cobra "R's", 315's, PBR 4 wheel Disks, Full Tubular suspension, Flaming River, 3.73:1 3-Link, Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, Footbox Air vents, Custom Turn Signals, Custom 4-into-4 headers, Non-Donor build, Ford Royal Blue Pearl w/ Arctic White stripes.
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Tail light options
TS Circuit
Drive-By
Linear Mode
