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Old 07-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hydroboost / CNC reservoir clearance issue?

I trial mounted my CNC triple reservoir and now concerned I have enough room for the hydraulic hoses to mount to the hydroboost. (Well the top hose anyway.) I assume I need an 90 -AN hose fitting off the hydroboost. Is this enough room? I have about 3/4" from the end of the fitting to the mounting bracket for the reservoirs. I've noticed from other posts there are different orientations for the hydroboost/MC combo. Worst case, I could remove the MC and flip the hydroboost 180 degrees but then I may have clearance issues with the 3/4" lower frame.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Oughta go

Tom:

I think it is going to be close, but a 90 degree fitting there looks to me like it might clear. You will have to put the fitting on first, route it away from the bracket, and then mount the plate bracket for the reservoirs. Since the back of that bracket is not visible from the engine compartment, you might notch the bracket where the fitting is close to it to keep a little clearance. Also, why not move the bracket and reservoirs toward the engine a little bit since you haven't really finished the mounting yet. I'd try that before you start moving the booster.

Ron
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Ron,
I thought about moving the reservoirs closer to the front but would have to move it 3.5 to 4" to clear the hose fitting then have 2 other issues, one; the bottom of the reservoir will be below the top of the MC and two; clearance issues with the hood brackets on the 3/4 frame tube. The first photo is actually from the "Casey Build Thread" (Thanks Mike!) but I did use the same measurement and have the reservoir 2.5" from the foot box ......On a another note I dropped the reservoir down to be level with the bottom of the 3/4 frame thinking I need to clear the hood. Without putting the body on for a fit, can I move the reservoirs level with the top of the frame on a Mark IV?

Tom
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Correction

Tom:

I didn't say move it forward, I said move it toward the engine, meaning toward the middle of the car. Inward. Directly away from the booster at right angles to the centerline of the car. It looks like you only have to move it maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch or so to provide enough clearance for the fitting.

Ron
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I had a similar issue to what Tom is wrestling with ... and we're both running triple CNC reservoirs and the same hydroboost (HB) system from Forte. And before there's any fury expressed ... it's NOT a Forte issue.

I agree with Ron that moving the reservoirs slightly toward the engine will give some additional clearance. I accomplished it by slightly bending the lower edge of the bracket toward the engine. (See 1st attached picture).

Plus I think the "other-than-90-degree-bend" on the bracket looks better as well ... YMMV

I ended up with approx 1 inch between the center of the fitting hole on the HB unit and the edge of the bracket - which should be plenty. (2nd picture) Plus if needed, I can always cut off a bit of the bottom of the bracket (1/4 - 38's) to get some additional clearance.

I envision that once installed, the hydraulic line from this particular location on the HB unit will run toward the front of the car ... toward the steering rack and should have plenty of clearance. Sorta like the hydraulic lines to/from the HB unit in the 3rd picture.

(Note: fluid reservoirs in the 3rd picture were installed "inside" the DS footbox ... you can just see one of the reservoir caps ... in a beautiful full custom MK4 build done locally by SKJ Customs and shown at SEMA in the FFR booth a couple years ago)

HTH

Lynn
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bracket angle.jpg (233.9 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg distance w:tape.jpg (235.5 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg SKJ car.jpg (252.8 KB, 39 views)
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROADRACER83 View Post
Tom:

I think it is going to be close, but a 90 degree fitting there looks to me like it might clear. You will have to put the fitting on first, route it away from the bracket, and then mount the plate bracket for the reservoirs. Since the back of that bracket is not visible from the engine compartment, you might notch the bracket where the fitting is close to it to keep a little clearance. Also, why not move the bracket and reservoirs toward the engine a little bit since you haven't really finished the mounting yet. I'd try that before you start moving the booster.

Ron
Ron

Sorry, it was right there in your post....Duh.... I'll try moving it in toward the engine and see how that works. I could add more to the angle bracket to give the depth.
Thanks Ron!

Tom
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Last edited by GT-Tom; 07-08-2012 at 09:17 PM..
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Plan "B"

Well...plan "B". I modified a piece of aluminum angle, added it to the current bracket and was able to extend the reservoirs 3/4" further toward the engine. With the reservoirs mounted to the 3/4 tube with just clecos it felt a little wobbly. I was concerned rivets would hold the extended weight that far out from the frame (especially just from the underside of the frame) so I drilled all the way through the 3/4 tube and used SS button head bolts to help distribute the weight. Much better! Hopefully the reservoirs won't interfere that far into the engine compartment. If they do, I can now just unbolt them from the frame and move them elsewhere.

Thanks for all your input!
Tom
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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There ya go

Tom:

That ought to do it. You don't want those caps up too high or they will hit on the underside of the hood when you mount that. I also would replace those 3/16 pop rivets with 1/4 inch SS button heads with nylocks like on the reservoirs. Pop rivets work best in applications where vibration is minimal and those fluid reservoirs are kind of hanging out there and are going to bounce a little.

Ron
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ron,
The top of the reservoir caps are level with the bottom of the 3/4 tube so hopefully enough clearance for the hood. I also used rivets on the front of the secondary brace (another 4 behind the reservoirs ) for a total of 8 rivets. Actually the rivets behind the reservoirs at stainless. I had trouble with getting them to break correctly so switched to aluminum for the top of the bracket. It feels pretty solid so I'm not sure the SS bolts will be necessary but will keep it in mind as a back up plan . I love this forum ! Such great support!

Tom
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