I read a lot of threads yesterday and today, but can't find the answers that I'm looking for.
I want to finish my hydroboost/power steering set up this weekend. Here is what I have:
Power steering rack '90 Mustang GT 100_1743.jpg
What is the best way to make my own lines?
I measured and I need about 4' of each hose (high pressure and low pressure)
Can I buy these fittings locally at auto store? I called breeze today, but nobody answered, probably closed till Tuesday.
List needed fittings (if anybody knows part number or has a link please post):
1. Power steering pump high pressure(HP) fitting
2. Hydrobooster HP inlet fitting
3. Hydrobooster HP outlet fitting
4. Hydrobooster return fitting
5. Steering rack return fitting
6. T connect return lines
7. Steering rack HP fitting
8. HP hose
7. Return hose.
Like everybody else, Mark at Breeze is probably taking a few days off. He is the best source for all the fittings, hose ends and -6 teflon hose to connect all of the components in that system. The pressure side of the system needs high pressure hose and steel fittings not easily available in a local parts store, although you might find a local store that can make hoses. A hose like that is going to the standard black rubber type. and cost almost what a better looking stainless steel braid teflon hose will cost. You might also consider putting a cooler in that system as the stock Ford pumps tend to heat the fluid up and the Mustangs normally have a loop of about 4 feet of hard line to help cool the fluid.
The fittings on the HydroBoost are similar to the fittings on the pump and rack, but there is one strange small diameter one that is not easily available. I doubt that anyone is going to be around to help this weekend. I'd find another project on the car to work on. If you are like me there is always another project.
Ron
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Like everybody else, Mark at Breeze is probably taking a few days off. He is the best source for all the fittings, hose ends and -6 teflon hose to connect all of the components in that system. The pressure side of the system needs high pressure hose and steel fittings not easily available in a local parts store, although you might find a local store that can make hoses. A hose like that is going to the standard black rubber type. and cost almost what a better looking stainless steel braid teflon hose will cost. You might also consider putting a cooler in that system as the stock Ford pumps tend to heat the fluid up and the Mustangs normally have a loop of about 4 feet of hard line to help cool the fluid.
The fittings on the HydroBoost are similar to the fittings on the pump and rack, but there is one strange small diameter one that is not easily available. I doubt that anyone is going to be around to help this weekend. I'd find another project on the car to work on. If you are like me there is always another project.
Ron
Ron
Ron, you are absolutely correct, I have other things to work on, but that involves wiring
I will contact breeze on Tuestay.
Where should I install the cooler, in return line? And which cooler would you recommend?
Its to bad that the fittings on the hydroboost are cut off so short as they could have been used along with all the stock fittings,if you have a tractor trailer or hydraulic shop around they could make the lines with your fittings.
Ron, you are absolutely correct, I have other things to work on, but that involves wiring
I will contact breeze on Tuestay.
Where should I install the cooler, in return line? And which cooler would you recommend?
Thank you,
Vaidas
Hi Vaidas:
I feel your pain. I hate wiring too.
The cooler goes in the low pressure return line. The high pressure line would blow the cooler up. I mounted mine on the front of the "X" member so it would see air flow from the radiator. I ran the low pressure return line from the rack to the cooler and back to the pump so the pump is getting less hot fluid. I too have bought a fair amount of generic aluminum and steel AN fittings and hose from the Earls Store #1, but I also like to purchase from the forum vendors when possible. Mark at Breeze has lots of experience working with steering hoses on FFR cars. He also knows just which fittings to use for the pump, rack, and HydroBoost. His prices are competitive and you don't have to guess which fittings to use.
This is the cooler I used. It comes with -6 AN male fittings and some mounting brackets on each end. Summit has tons of transmission coolers to choose from. It doesn't have to be huge. They don't have a specific cooler for power steering, but transmission coolers do the same job.
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Since I didn't purchase a radiator yet, is it a good idea to buy one with transmission coolant? So I could use it for power steering.
Would that work?
That would work but that is a more expensive way to do it and I haven't checked to see if the radiator has the same dimensions as a standard rad.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Vaidas: I don't see why one of those good quality radiators with the integral cooler wouldn't work. You might have to block off the radiator cap on the radiator in order to install a remote fill and expansion tank. You would need to be careful how you run the lines to the cooler to make sure that they are not putting stress on the bosses.
One point: If you keep the power steering and brake system separate from your cooling system you won't run the risk of having both go out if one component fails. If the engine overheats for some reason so will your steering and brake system. I'm not sure that will happen but it won't if the steering and braking has it's own small cooler. Plus the radiator will be less expensive and less prone to leak without the integral cooler.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Here are some pics of my PS cooler mounted on the "X" member for what it is worth if you decide you need some ideas for a cooler location. I needed the traditional location under the front panel for my engine oil cooler. This is the little trans cooler that I got from Summit with the -6 AN fittings. There is short teflon -6 hose from the return port on the rack to the cooler and a -6 hose to the return side of the pump.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
Vaidas: I don't see why one of those good quality radiators with the integral cooler wouldn't work. You might have to block off the radiator cap on the radiator in order to install a remote fill and expansion tank. You would need to be careful how you run the lines to the cooler to make sure that they are not putting stress on the bosses.
One point: If you keep the power steering and brake system separate from your cooling system you won't run the risk of having both go out if one component fails. If the engine overheats for some reason so will your steering and brake system. I'm not sure that will happen but it won't if the steering and braking has it's own small cooler. Plus the radiator will be less expensive and less prone to leak without the integral cooler.
Ron
Good point about overheating both units... That's the reason I never liked TV/DVD/VCR in one I think I will have to go with regular radiator and install the PS cooler on the frame.
When you say I will have to "block off the radiator cap on the radiator in order to install a remote fill and expansion tank", you are talking about that ~1/2" connection for overflow tank next to the cap? Can I cap that connection with NAPA Heater Hose By-Pass Cap and leave radiator cap in place, and still install remote fill and expansion tank?
Added: I have base kit, so I don't have radiator fill adapter that goes into upper radiator hose. What is the reason that I can't use the one is on the radiator? Is it because it's located underneath the frame? Should I get ~27" width radiator and use fill cap and overflow connection?
What would right radiator for me to purchase?
Good point about overheating both units... That's the reason I never liked TV/DVD/VCR in one I think I will have to go with regular radiator and install the PS cooler on the frame.
When you say I will have to "block off the radiator cap on the radiator in order to install a remote fill and expansion tank", you are talking about that ~1/2" connection for overflow tank next to the cap? Can I cap that connection with NAPA Heater Hose By-Pass Cap and leave radiator cap in place, and still install remote fill and expansion tank?
Vaidas:
On some OEM style radiators there is a cap on the radiator itself like in your pictures. On race style radiators there is no cap on the radiator, just the inlet and outlet and a bung on the top somewhere to bleed air out. That is usually a 3/8 pipe plug and you can connect a hose to a remote expansion tank from that or plug it.
I chose to install an inline filler cap in the upper radiator hose and run a hose from the filler neck to an expansion tank so excess water and air can pass to the overflow. I have been told that may not work too well if the volume of water going past it opens the little valve on the bottom of the pressure cap. I'll have to see it that is the case. I have a 20 pound cap on the inline filler and a 16 pound cap on the expansion tank. The tube from the filler cap goes in the bottom of the expansion tank. That way any air gets forced out when the engine heats up and the expansion tank only allows water/coolant mixture to flow back in. I drilled an 1/8 inch hole in the outer ring of the thermostat and mounted it so the hole was on the top to allow air to bleed out of the engine on initial fill.
Ron
__________________
Racing: "The world's most efficient way to turn money into noise and smoke"
"Think with your dipstick, Jimmy"
"Anybody can BUY a car, only a chosen few build their own"
FFR Challenge car #4182SP Carbed 302, Holley 600CFM, E303 cam, T5, 3 link rear-3:55, Levy wheels, Kumho tires, Fire Safe fuel cell, Griffin race radiator, ISIS wiring system, MSD 6ALN NASCAR ignition, 85 Mustang distributor,
The more shopping I do, more questions I get
So if I want to keep original cap on the radiator, I need to get radiator that is not wider than 3/4" tube that radiator is being mounted on? On MK4 is 25" 100_1752.jpg
So my questions is, what the widest radiator I can get to be able to use cap on the radiator and not on the upper hose?
What are pros and cons to use the cap on the radiator?
Vaidas,
You won't be using the cap on the radiator to fiill the cooling system; since water doesn't flow uphill () it has to be filled from the highest point. This is why most simply use an inline "T" filler in the upper hose which typically is the high point. Other less frequently used options are to incorporate Cobraearls Ford to Chevy thermostat housing adapter block in conjunction with a water neck filler or to use a degas tank. In all of these cases the fill point is highest. If you use a radiator with provisions for a cap (the FFR radiator does not have a cap fitting, is made to fit perfectly and is a bargain IMHO) you'll need to run a higher pressure cap on the radiator than you do on the filler.
That barb fitting cooler should work fine. Glad to see you give up on the idea of running PS fluid thru the radiator. Under normal conditions on a street driven car I think that would have actually heated the fluid rather than cooled it. My own observations with mine are that PS fluid temp comes up with high RPM. I can cruise around all day and the temperature is just warm but after making a few laps on track or a few autocross runs with sustained RPMs above 5,000 it comes up significantly.
I did some research and then went in the garage to see if I can install small cooler on the frame. I have battery sitting in the back of x member and I ran brake lines in the front, looks like I don’t have room where to mount the cooler. So now I’m back to the idea that I should get radiator with transmission cooler in it. I found one radiator that might work and it doesn’t have a filler on it, so I don’t have to worry about that one. rad.jpg
Mark from Breeze is working from different location today, so I will have to talk to him tomorrow. Today I was trying to figure out what fittings I will need and I found this diagram PowerSteeringLineMap.jpg
My question is, do I need the Tee Fitting (RUS-661030) and 3 hose ends (RUS-610030). This tee is on return side, so it's low pressure. Can I use regular tee with clamps?
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The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire
Looks like I have almost all fittings and hoses. One thing that I'm missing is low pressure return from hydroboost fitting. Looks like it's really small one, maybe 10mm or less.
Does anybody know where I could get one?
__________________
The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire
Does anybody knows what thread size fitting I need for '97 mustang hydroboost inlet? I got one 18mm from Summit and it's too big. I have old fitting and took to ACE, but couldn't match the thread.
From this picture looks like I need 18mm, but like I mentioned it's too big, did ford use different thread from some point. I measured and it's 17.2mm or close to 11/16" PowerSteeringLineMap.jpg
If somebody knows for sure what I need, please let me know...I want to order correct one this time
__________________
The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire
Did you ever get this sorted out? I have a 96 rack and hydroboost unit. The rack uses a 9/16 18 for the high pressure side and a 5/8 18 for the low pressure side. It looks like the hydroboost unit also uses standard fittings, not metric. Bill
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Rcvd MK3.1 6/2011 with 3link
Using 98 DOHC w/ Vortech T45, PS, PB, ABS, AC
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) it has to be filled from the highest point. This is why most simply use an inline "T" filler in the upper hose which typically is the high point. Other less frequently used options are to incorporate Cobraearls Ford to Chevy thermostat housing adapter block in conjunction with a water neck filler or to use a degas tank. In all of these cases the fill point is highest. If you use a radiator with provisions for a cap (the FFR radiator does not have a cap fitting, is made to fit perfectly and is a bargain IMHO) you'll need to run a higher pressure cap on the radiator than you do on the filler.
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