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Old 04-29-2012, 01:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Conversion cable to hydraulic clutch ?

What are your suggestions for change cable clutch system to hydraulic ?
I have too much pressure on the pedal and in traffic it is horrible.
I have a 351W stroked 427 with a 10.5 clutch coupled with a Tremec TKO 600, 5 speed.
My parts come from Engine Factory.
I would appreciate web link and/or pictures to make the conversion if you can.
The cost is not important, I want the best and keep it simple.
I will be at the FFR open house next June 9th, hope see you !
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Make it easy on yourself.

Forte's has a nice hydraulic clutch setup that should work perfectly for you. Has everything you need. (ask for at least a 1" m/c though).

Lots of guys here run it and love it.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just changed a complete kit cable to hydraulic and it is at least a 100% improvement. Pedal pressure is a little less and pedal travel to clutch dis-engagement has gone from 90+% of travel to about 40% of travel.
A 1-1/8: master was recommended and is a direct bolt in with the Wilwood pedal assembly. Slave selection and mounting hardware is dependent on engine/trans, and I have no experience with your set-up so calling Mike is a good idea.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Put a cluch fork extender on it , big improvement , fortes has em,I made my own
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Made my own hydraulic system that uses the FOX pedals. 7 years, not one problem, racing all seasons.

Another offender is the clutch choice. How heavy a pressure plate?
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you using and OEM cable?

I have heard there is a world of difference in the OEM Cable vs an aftermarket. It has something to do with a Teflon lining..
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chepsk8 View Post
Made my own hydraulic system that uses the FOX pedals. 7 years, not one problem, racing all seasons.

Another offender is the clutch choice. How heavy a pressure plate?
Can you find the link to how you did that? thanks
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Get at least a 1" MC or 1 1/8", that way you can lower the clutch pedal to be more in line with your brake pedal but push enough fluid volume to fully disengage the clutch. After having a leaky Wilwood Master I went with a Tilton 76 series, they are about $40 more but the quality difference is worth it, the bore is polished and hard anodized...Wilwoods are as cast and NOT anodized. These things are so difficult to replace on a completed car (about 4 hours), that I would spring for the higher quality part for the MC.

I did buy the kit from Fortes, nice brackets and fittings, some shimming of the bracket required depending on your clutch configuration, but easy to do.

Here's a couple pics of my setup on a TKO 500 w Quicktime Bellhousing to a small block.

Hose from MC to Slave:


Slave mounted to Tranny/Bellhousing bolts.


Adapter bolted to Clutch Fork:
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I built my own using a Wilwood slave and a piece of angle iron that is bolted to the Energy Suspension motor mount. I also welded a tab to the chassis so I could run hard line down to the clutch area and attach the flex line with a AN bulkhead fitting. I used a 1" master cylinder, it feels just about the same as a stock Mustang clutch, only much smoother.


Here's a photo of the hard lines and the tab for the bulkhead fitting.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I did what Dave and others have done. Buy Forte's kit and stipulate a 1" or 1 1/8" master.

I have the latter.. works perfectly.

I have a new/unused 1" Tilton master lying around. I was going to go with that, but leap-frogged it for a 1 1/8" Wilwood (no leaks here).
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