What are your suggestions for change cable clutch system to hydraulic ?
I have too much pressure on the pedal and in traffic it is horrible.
I have a 351W stroked 427 with a 10.5 clutch coupled with a Tremec TKO 600, 5 speed.
My parts come from Engine Factory.
I would appreciate web link and/or pictures to make the conversion if you can.
The cost is not important, I want the best and keep it simple.
I will be at the FFR open house next June 9th, hope see you !
a Quebec-Canadian driver from Saint-Georges-Beauce
FFR Mk4 complete kit with no used parts
351w stroker 427 (538hp), this is the specs of my motor
some pictures HERE
I just changed a complete kit cable to hydraulic and it is at least a 100% improvement. Pedal pressure is a little less and pedal travel to clutch dis-engagement has gone from 90+% of travel to about 40% of travel.
A 1-1/8: master was recommended and is a direct bolt in with the Wilwood pedal assembly. Slave selection and mounting hardware is dependent on engine/trans, and I have no experience with your set-up so calling Mike is a good idea.
Made my own hydraulic system that uses the FOX pedals. 7 years, not one problem, racing all seasons.
Another offender is the clutch choice. How heavy a pressure plate?
FFR5148K MkII Roadster, MCRP 331 CI 415 HP w/ carb, 3-link, disc brakes, Still mostly Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, blown-up, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.
I have heard there is a world of difference in the OEM Cable vs an aftermarket. It has something to do with a Teflon lining..
Mark 3.1 delivered Oct 08, Massing parts for 331 stroker, GT40 heads, EFI, Ford E-cam, ff5 4 into 4 headers, Explorer Intake. T5 w/ S10 midshift, IRS and ff5 LCA's, Koni coil overs. Power steering, ABS power boosted 13" Cobra Brakes front and Thunderbird rears. 2003 Cobra After markets 18/9's front 18/10.5 rears. Tires 275's front and 315's rear. Cannonball Cobra's Trunk box.
Get at least a 1" MC or 1 1/8", that way you can lower the clutch pedal to be more in line with your brake pedal but push enough fluid volume to fully disengage the clutch. After having a leaky Wilwood Master I went with a Tilton 76 series, they are about $40 more but the quality difference is worth it, the bore is polished and hard anodized...Wilwoods are as cast and NOT anodized. These things are so difficult to replace on a completed car (about 4 hours), that I would spring for the higher quality part for the MC.
I did buy the kit from Fortes, nice brackets and fittings, some shimming of the bracket required depending on your clutch configuration, but easy to do.
Here's a couple pics of my setup on a TKO 500 w Quicktime Bellhousing to a small block.
Hose from MC to Slave:
Slave mounted to Tranny/Bellhousing bolts.
Adapter bolted to Clutch Fork:
3.1 IRS Complete Kit #6616, June 08 delivery; 347 stroker; TKO 500 Mid Shift; SAI & Bumpsteer Mods; Manual Rack;
" At 60 there is no time left to delay your Dreams "
I built my own using a Wilwood slave and a piece of angle iron that is bolted to the Energy Suspension motor mount. I also welded a tab to the chassis so I could run hard line down to the clutch area and attach the flex line with a AN bulkhead fitting. I used a 1" master cylinder, it feels just about the same as a stock Mustang clutch, only much smoother.
Here's a photo of the hard lines and the tab for the bulkhead fitting.
Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 9" Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
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