What are your suggestions for change cable clutch system to hydraulic ?
I have too much pressure on the pedal and in traffic it is horrible.
I have a 351W stroked 427 with a 10.5 clutch coupled with a Tremec TKO 600, 5 speed.
My parts come from Engine Factory.
I would appreciate web link and/or pictures to make the conversion if you can.
The cost is not important, I want the best and keep it simple.
I will be at the FFR open house next June 9th, hope see you !
a Quebec-Canadian driver from Saint-Georges-Beauce
FFR Mk4 complete kit with no used parts
351w stroker 427 (538hp), this is the specs of my motor
some pictures HERE
I just changed a complete kit cable to hydraulic and it is at least a 100% improvement. Pedal pressure is a little less and pedal travel to clutch dis-engagement has gone from 90+% of travel to about 40% of travel.
A 1-1/8: master was recommended and is a direct bolt in with the Wilwood pedal assembly. Slave selection and mounting hardware is dependent on engine/trans, and I have no experience with your set-up so calling Mike is a good idea.
Made my own hydraulic system that uses the FOX pedals. 7 years, not one problem, racing all seasons.
Another offender is the clutch choice. How heavy a pressure plate?
FFR5148K MkII Roadster, MCRP 331 CI 415 HP w/ carb, 3-link, disc brakes, Still mostly Gel-Coat Grey! Now with roll cage and more track stuff, wrecked, beaten, blown-up, man-handled, cut up, butchered, Freaky body mods, sat on by HOOTERS girls, still barely street legal.
I have heard there is a world of difference in the OEM Cable vs an aftermarket. It has something to do with a Teflon lining..
Mark 3.1 delivered Oct 08, Massing parts for 331 stroker, GT40 heads, EFI, Ford E-cam, ff5 4 into 4 headers, Explorer Intake. T5 w/ S10 midshift, IRS and ff5 LCA's, Koni coil overs. Power steering, ABS power boosted 13" Cobra Brakes front and Thunderbird rears. 2003 Cobra After markets 18/9's front 18/10.5 rears. Tires 275's front and 315's rear. Cannonball Cobra's Trunk box.
Get at least a 1" MC or 1 1/8", that way you can lower the clutch pedal to be more in line with your brake pedal but push enough fluid volume to fully disengage the clutch. After having a leaky Wilwood Master I went with a Tilton 76 series, they are about $40 more but the quality difference is worth it, the bore is polished and hard anodized...Wilwoods are as cast and NOT anodized. These things are so difficult to replace on a completed car (about 4 hours), that I would spring for the higher quality part for the MC.
I did buy the kit from Fortes, nice brackets and fittings, some shimming of the bracket required depending on your clutch configuration, but easy to do.
Here's a couple pics of my setup on a TKO 500 w Quicktime Bellhousing to a small block.
Hose from MC to Slave:
Slave mounted to Tranny/Bellhousing bolts.
Adapter bolted to Clutch Fork:
3.1 IRS Complete Kit #6616, June 08 delivery; 347 stroker; TKO 500 Mid Shift; SAI & Bumpsteer Mods; Manual Rack;
" At 60 there is no time left to delay your Dreams "
I built my own using a Wilwood slave and a piece of angle iron that is bolted to the Energy Suspension motor mount. I also welded a tab to the chassis so I could run hard line down to the clutch area and attach the flex line with a AN bulkhead fitting. I used a 1" master cylinder, it feels just about the same as a stock Mustang clutch, only much smoother.
Here's a photo of the hard lines and the tab for the bulkhead fitting.
Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 ratio 9", Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
'14 Taurus SHO. Most all the bells and whistles.
Welcome to FFCars! The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory