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Old 01-19-2012, 09:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Need Help with Clutch Kit/T5:

I bought the complete roaster kit and do not have a donor car. The 5.8L engine came from a 94 van. I kept the block and rotating assy, everything else is new. Flywheel is aftermarket billet steel. Clutch Kit is a Valeo OE replacement (52672001), Bell Housing is an aluminum aftermarket Ford replacement, and the transmission is a T5. The flywheel has been attached to the crank flange using ARP bolts dipped in 30 weight oil and torque to 90 ft lb. Will attached pressure plate using Ford metric bolts. I need your help with the following questions
1) Should I use oil or Loctite on bolt threads for the Pressure Plate?
2) If Loctite, blue (medium strength) or red (high strength)?
3) What torque should I use?
4) How do I adjust the Ball Stud that the Throw-Out Bearing Bracket clips to?
5) What torque for bolts that hold T5 to Bell Housing?
6) What torque for bolts that hold Bell Housing to Engine Block.
7) Where can I buy a rubber boot for Bell Housing/Throw-Out Bearing Bracket?
Pictures would be helpful and your comments welcomed.

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Old 01-20-2012, 12:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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the ball stud can be shimmed out with a hardened washer, you may not need to do this.
but the distance of the stud in the housing thread, you want 1 1/2 times the diameter of the thread in the threaded housing no less.

some bolts you buy for the specific pressure plate come with a sealant on them. go to ford and they got em, same as the FW

torque sequence and specs can be found in the Ford manual, buy a Haynes they got em in there, at an O'reileys

the boot most don't use it, rain is rare in these cars and the dust can be too
i have seen a deflector made in front but there are boots for the clutch fork
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Old 01-20-2012, 01:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Agree with recommendation above to get an '87 - 93 Mustang Manual.

Remove the flywheel, Make sure you have dowel pins installed, Clean bolt and tapped hole threads with solvent, apply pipe thread sealant and re-install flywheel. Torque to 75 ft-lb
Install pressure plate screws dry, torque to 21ft-lb
All other screws go in dry
No adjustment should be needed on the pivot ball - just snug it down.

Torque values here:

2 ea. 20090 Screw, 5/16-18 x 1/2", Hex Head, Gr. 8, Yellow Zinc
2 ea. 20089 Washer, Split Lock, 5/16" ID, Gr. 8, Yellow Zinc
(mid-plate to aluminum bell-housing, torque to 10 ft-lb)
2 ea. 20114 Screw, 3/8-16 x 1-1/2", Hex Head, Gr. 8, Yellow Zinc
2 ea. 20113 Washer, Split Lock, 3/8" ID, Gr. 8, Yellow Zinc
(starter to aluminum bell-housing, torque to 15 ft-lb)
2 ea. 20149 Screw, 7/16-14 x 1-1/2", Hex Flange Head, Grade 8, Black Oxide
4 ea. 20150 Screw, 7/16-14 x 2", Hex Flange Head, Grade 8, Black Oxide
(aluminum bell-housing to engine, torque to 45 ft-lb)
4 ea. 20282 Screw, M12-1.75 x 45mm, Class 10.9, Black Finish Steel
4 ea. 20283 Washer, Split Lock, 12mm, Black Finish Steel
(transmission to aluminum bell-housing, torque to 55 ft-lb)
2 ea. 20157 Bolt, 1/2-13 x 2.0, Hex Head, Gr-8 Gold Zinc, Partially Threaded
2 ea. 20170 Washer, Split Lock, 1/2" ID, Zinc
14 ea. 20156 Washer, 1/2 ID x 1.06 OD, SAE, Zinc
(transmission mount to transmission, torque to 55 ft-lb)

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Old 01-20-2012, 03:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Mark's the man.... definitely check out his website for aaaalllll your needs, you'll never be disappointed.

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Old 01-21-2012, 01:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Thanks guys for the feedback. I will pick up a Mustang Repair Manual. Also you are right, I took a closer look at the Pivot Post to Bell Housing and there is no adjustment. However Iím not able to engage Pivot Post to Throw-Out Bearing Bracket. It looks like I have to snap post into bracket and then screw into Bell Housing. Thanks again.
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