So after some back and forth with FFR, they are unable to help me with the header issue because my headers are to spec
LMAO...all they did was take another pair off the shelf and confirm those are F'd up too.
It amazes me that after all these years they can't provide headers that fit consistently. I had one of the first sets of FFR 4x4 headers (made in-house, I think...12 years ago) with spliced together bends/tubes, and even back then, they had the SAME problems. Including the in-house ones, what are they on...they're 3rd or 4th header vendor? Obviously, there will be little nuances between cars that may require some tweaking...1/4"? 1/2" maybe? Not inches.
This is what the adjustable setup looks like. With all the adjustability built into this you can see how you can over come your problems. Stainless headers has the solution to all the side pipe nightmares.
I had the same problem here, and had the same conversation with Factory Five. Below I will attach photos of how I resolved it. Now this may not be the way for everyone to do it, and it has some out-of-pocket expense and does not excuse F5 from the issue. But hopefully it can help at least someone...
We took the header and cut a slot in the bottom side of each pipe right below the flange that mates up with the head. The flange was then bent to give us the proper angle to make the sidepipe flange exit the body at the correct height. Each pipe was then tack welded to hold its place. The rest of the slot was TIG welded (the tack weld held the pipes in the proper place since TIG welding can shrink a bit more).
To finish we sent the header out to get re-ceramic coated and now it fits like a charm! For me it was approximately a $300 fix...but it works and now I can move on with the build.
After a new ceramic coating:
__________________ -Brent
Kit Delivered & Build Started: 11-6-10 First Start: 5-26-12
Has anybody ever tried buying a kit with a header/sidepipe credit instead of struggling with this stuff? (I'm being diplomatic) I'm just wondering if FFR would even entertain such a notion but it would be worth a try. I've always said that fitting the exhaust was one of the more labor intensive parts of the build but this is rediculous. I'm a little disappointed that the Stainless headers aren't nice continuous mandrel bent tubes but at least they fit and the price is not bad. I think that trumps looks okay, priced right but don't fit.
Frank
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Anniverary Edition,Dart Aluminum 427, TKO 600, ISIS, Bump steer,5 link,,Billet upper,lower control arms ,Wilwood six piston brakes front four piston brakes rear,Russ Thompson's turn signal and throttle pedal,Stainless Steele's 427 headers,Fast Freddies Steering. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/members...s/28242-gopherHTTP://photobucket.com/annivesary-car
I think you mean about $1,600. Add $300 for stainless.
If they are going to sell more than one, you wont be paying $1,600. Give Chris a call. They are a top notch group up there in North Dakota and a pleasure to work with.
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MK3.1 - Under Construction
Coyote 5.0
Tremec 3650
If they are going to sell more than one, you wont be paying $1,600. Give Chris a call. They are a top notch group up there in North Dakota and a pleasure to work with.
WOW! That would be an exceptional price.
Looks like there should be a group buy on something like this.
The group buy should be a real small group-like a group of one-maybe Factory Five!
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FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
After seeing what evvander11 did by cutting a slot just shy of the header flange and bending it back to suit to revised angle, which is brilliant by the way, solved an obvious design issue.
Its interesting that the driver side header (for 351 engines) has to have a 13 downward bend in the header tubes but not on the passenger side. I know the engine sits off to one side slightly but the angles don't change.
I have monkeyed around with my headers enough now that I have a solution that I am very pleased with aside from going with custom headers. I have posted a couple of times within this thread with what I have been doing. I did cut my headers back effectively removing the 13 degree bend in the tubes. Now they are straight. I made a section of tubes that fit between the header and side pipe.
I have also decided to not continue using my Gas-N sidepipess. Can't get rid of the golden hue. Well, I can, but as soon as you put a couple of heat cycles through it, they turn gold again....YUK.
So with the big spacer I built (with the help of friend) we were able to adjust the angle of the two flanges that eliminates the need for wedges. One skinny gasket and I'm good to go. Pipes lined up perfectly. With my car up on dollies, the tips measure 8.25" to the floor on both side and I didn't have to rock the engine or anything. My engine is level to within 1/16" measured back to the frame.
Just thought I would share.
Perry
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FFR #6641, Mk 3.1, 408W Stroker, Dart Block, Edelbrock Victor Jr Heads, Custom Hydraulic Roller Cam, Quick Fuel 750 CFM, Non-Donor, TKO 600, Center Force Clutch, 8.8" Detroit Tru-Trac, 3.73 Gears, S.S. Side Pipes, Polished FR500 Style Wheel, Big Ass Wilwood Brakes, VPM Reinforced 3-Link, Stainless Steel Braid Everything. POM Dec/2010 & Feb/2011.
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