__________________
MK4 delivery 12/17/11
Build thread: HERE
Epic First start video HERE
427w ford racing, stainless headers, 3link, tko600, 3.55 gears, Jim Inglese weber intake system and a custom paint job from Jeff Miller!
Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
Build thread: HERE
347 w. stack injection, IRS, Levy arms, Levy front and rear brakes
My car will not be bright green or bright orange though. As of 7:57AM Monday 7/30/12 My color choices are down to... in order by oldest concept...
1. Olive green with off-white or black racing stripes (don't really have an example)
2. Grabber blue with black racing stripes (sort of like the new mustangs)
3. Ivory White! black racing stripes (also sort of like new mustang color)
and somewhere in a distant 4th is aluminum with black racing stripes
Body is on. I am struggling with the quick jack mounts though. First off, I wish I would have come up with a solution to the stupid hidden nut in the back issue. Thankfully I was able to get on all washers and nuts. Not sure if I need to have them tightened down yet, but that will also be a major pain when it is required for final assembly.
quick jack solution on the rear is to drop tank, insert a bolt from the rear through frame and trunk aluminum, then lock washer, then long coupler nut. then use threaded rod (7/16-24 if memory serves me correct) cut to desired length and nuts,washers, and lock washers for the rest. Precludes ever having to drop the tank again and allows easy in/out adjustment of lower body to match trunk lid curl.
see jeff kleiner's Mark 4 thread.
__________________
Rick
Mk IV 7329, '04 Mach 1 donor, 3 link, FFR lowers, heater, Kirkey seats w/seat heaters, dual rollbars, Kumho Ecsta XS 255/315s on 9/10.5 x 17 Halibrand replicas; , Lexus Indigo Ink Pearl/Arctic White stripes
-picked up 9/25/10
-first start 3/9/12
-go kart 3/18/12
-complete 7/24/12 http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...0Construction/
is there anything in there to quite those down? Daddy likes!!!
__________________
MK4 delivery 12/17/11
Build thread: HERE
Epic First start video HERE
427w ford racing, stainless headers, 3link, tko600, 3.55 gears, Jim Inglese weber intake system and a custom paint job from Jeff Miller!
Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
Build thread: HERE
347 w. stack injection, IRS, Levy arms, Levy front and rear brakes
Right now it's just straight pipe. The auger that they offer is an option but I want to hear them wide open first. They offer several designs and this straight 3in style is what they had handy and I think it looks incredible. More pics to come! I get my car back from their shop today, woohoo!
Body is back off and laying next to the car again. This weekend I installed an FFR radiator and started buttoning up the remaining cooling lines. Still have a few things to work out, but its going well. I used Breeze's EZ cool which was worth every penny.
I decided to cut the shroud hole to the diameter of the fan, not the shroud. I figured this may give it some extra stiffness and so I wouldnt have to mess with tabs. 20120811-Cobra-0260 by akpingel, on Flickr
Made these little brackets to mount my coolant overflow tank. I am using the stock 2012 mustang tank. 20120812-Cobra-0287 by akpingel, on Flickr
The stock lower hose worked like a champ for me. I knew I wanted to use the top part as a sharp 90 degree is needed to keep the hose off the steering shaft, and the stock hose had this. I was fiddling around with the lower connection to the radiator for a couple of hours when it dawned on me that the un-used portion of the hose would work perfectly. The problem was that the FFR radiator is in a position that caused it to come very close to interfering with the tow hook. I think this is largely due to the fact I did not check this before mounting the radiator, and maybe could have been avoided. Anyway the bend in the stock hose cured this instantly, and only required that I wrestled it on to the corrugated hose. Booya!
The bottom hose is tucked up above the 4" tubes, but just barely. If I were to do it all over again, I would have moved the remote filter mount 1/4" further to the center of the car. The remote filter lines touch the corrugated water hose. This annoys me, but it shouldn't be a problem. The oil lines have plenty of clearance from the belt so life is good.
Top hose took about 10 minutes after going through the learning curve of the bottom. I will have to get a picture next time I am in the garage.
Current state! 20120812-Cobra-0267 by akpingel, on Flickr
Well I have a few updates to report. I am waiting on the exhaust system to come back from Levy's. They have not sent it off to ceramic coat, so I suspect it will be 2 weeks or so until I have them back.
I have been buttoning up a bunch of other things. Here is the engine bay now. 20120830-Cobra-0294 by akpingel, on Flickr
I finished all of the cooling, except one hose. I dont really understand why Ford did not use the same size ports on both ends of the bottom reservoir hose. I am working on a solution to this, trying to avoid buying the stock hose.
Re-did my brake/clutch reservoir lines with 1/4 line. I was concerned that the 3/16 line would have too much friction and cause sluggish pedal return. Who knows if that would have been the case but no point in risking it. 20120901-Cobra-0297 by akpingel, on Flickr
Finished almost all of the wiring, except the main power lines, and the gauges/switches. Pretty exciting... the engine bay is getting close to finished.
Trying to figure out what to do with the heater on/off valve. It doesnt have any sort of mounting points, and I dont want it laying around and too mobile. I bent up this stand and drilled a hole in the middle that the unit sets in. I will rivet it to the footbox once I figure out how to best secure the valve to it. It sets in there nice, but a good bump would probably knock it out. 20120901-Cobra-0300 by akpingel, on Flickr
Didnt get it quite center, but thats OK because the hole is oversized. I need to work on my patience!!! 20120902-Cobra-0308 by akpingel, on Flickr
You may notice an extra warning light. I am going to add an oil temp sending unit that will turn the light on if the oil temp gets above 275. Also I am using 65/66 mustang headlight and ignition switches. The toggles are for Driver and passenger fan, hi beams, L/R indicator, and hazards. The horn and heater controls will be hidden under the dash. 20120902-Cobra-0310 by akpingel, on Flickr
__________________
MK4 delivery 12/17/11
Build thread: HERE
Epic First start video HERE
427w ford racing, stainless headers, 3link, tko600, 3.55 gears, Jim Inglese weber intake system and a custom paint job from Jeff Miller!
Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
Build thread: HERE
347 w. stack injection, IRS, Levy arms, Levy front and rear brakes
Continue to chug along at the wiring. I was basically "there" with it last weekend, with the exception of extending the O2 sensor plugs. Well, not being able to leave well enough alone, I decided to make modifications.
My original switch design featured a convoluted relay system to prevent all lights flashing when using turn signals... I had extra relays and no diodes on-hand. Here was the first design:
The big problem was that there were relays that were activated when the car was off. I was afraid this would drain the battery, so I picked up some diodes and went with this much more simple design:
And now I am trimming up other areas where the harness is just not the correct length. Here I am removing about 18" of the Ford control pack harness. Space is getting tight behind the dash, and I can use all the space I can make. 20121007-Cobra-0360 by akpingel, on Flickr
...still waiting on my exhaust to get back from Levy's...
akpingel, really like your build, coming along well.
I just installed my cooling system a couple weeks ago, but I'm not happy with the flex hose hitting the front tie-down (tow hook) on the frame rails.
Can you tell me the part number for the "S" hose you used?
Also, what did you use for the hose hanger mounted to the x-brace?
Nice build, keep the posts coming!
Quote:
Originally Posted by akpingel
The stock lower hose worked like a champ for me. I knew I wanted to use the top part as a sharp 90 degree is needed to keep the hose off the steering shaft, and the stock hose had this. I was fiddling around with the lower connection to the radiator for a couple of hours when it dawned on me that the un-used portion of the hose would work perfectly. The problem was that the FFR radiator is in a position that caused it to come very close to interfering with the tow hook. I think this is largely due to the fact I did not check this before mounting the radiator, and maybe could have been avoided. Anyway the bend in the stock hose cured this instantly, and only required that I wrestled it on to the corrugated hose. Booya!
Here are pics mounted. I recommend this over the way FF suggests (assuming it doesnt leak!!)
__________________
F5R #7446 Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, First Go-Kart 11/17/12
Licensed 4/24/13!! Wahoo!
Thanks!
The hose I used is the stock lower radiator hose from a 11-12 5.0. I looked all over the web for a part number and could not find one. Next chance I get I will see if I can read one off the hose. Its the stock hose cut in half, using the other half at the block inlet. It came with the crate motor.
I have to get to the Ford dealer this week to get coolant. When I go I will get the part number for the lower hose.
The headers came in today! Travis stopped by with these beauties. I cant wait to hear how they sound straight through. First start is planned for 11/3.
Now to get the o2 sensors wired correctly. My dumbass bought the wrong bolt size (my block uses M10 x 1.25MM x 25mm and I bought M10 x 1.50MM x 25MM) so they are just mocked up for now.
Would appreciate more info about how to get the scotchbrite finish -- it looks great. Is the idea to work the aluminum with scotchbrite pads, and then spray a clearcoat? If yes, which scotchbrite (they come in different hardnesses) and what clearcoat do you recommend -- lacquer? polyurethane? something else?
I did not use scotchbrite except on my F panels. Every other panel is raw finish, cleaned with acetone and coated with Sharkhide. I used the green scotchbrite pads on the F panels to give it a grain, but I was not happy with the way it looked versus the raw panel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidbr_48
Would appreciate more info about how to get the scotchbrite finish -- it looks great. Is the idea to work the aluminum with scotchbrite pads, and then spray a clearcoat? If yes, which scotchbrite (they come in different hardnesses) and what clearcoat do you recommend -- lacquer? polyurethane? something else?
akpingel, really like your build, coming along well.
I just installed my cooling system a couple weeks ago, but I'm not happy with the flex hose hitting the front tie-down (tow hook) on the frame rails.
Can you tell me the part number for the "S" hose you used?
Also, what did you use for the hose hanger mounted to the x-brace?
Nice build, keep the posts coming!
Found the part number for the lower hose in Ford's install instructions:
Looks like BR33-3B273-B
Still not running yet... more to update this weekend.
Really like those headers, they are a work of art.
Do the twists make them equal-length?
Your build is great looking and that Coyote looks terrific in there. I'd love to hear it run. Your black wheels really give it a sinister look too.
btw, thanks for the radiator hose number, but I'm going to have to do some more searching. I checked Autozone and NAPA and there's no part number listed. Also googled it and nothing came up. I'll keep trying.
Thanks again.
__________________
F5R #7446 Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, First Go-Kart 11/17/12
Licensed 4/24/13!! Wahoo!
Really like those headers, they are a work of art.
Do the twists make them equal-length?
Your build is great looking and that Coyote looks terrific in there. I'd love to hear it run. Your black wheels really give it a sinister look too.
btw, thanks for the radiator hose number, but I'm going to have to do some more searching. I checked Autozone and NAPA and there's no part number listed. Also googled it and nothing came up. I'll keep trying.
Thanks again.
They are as close to equal length as possible hence the twists. I think Travis said Cyl 1 was a little longer than the rest. I may have to check that hose number when I get home from work... I read it from a PDF file and it was unclear when I zoomed in...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClemsonS197
Your car is a little bit further ahead of mine in terms of total progress, but I've already driven mile ~5 miles.
And FYI, yours is going to be LOUD. I have the FFR set up with j-pipes and mufflers, and it's loud. Straight through is going to be insane.
Kevin That is because you have your priorities straight! I am looking forward to the first start without the sidepipes on. The collector aims right back instead of out
Should be able to fire it up sometime over this holiday break.
One thing I decided to do was go ahead and wire up a Ford speed sensor. It is my understanding that some coyote owners have been having issues with the cars stalling out because of something to do with the fact that the PCM does not know the car is moving. F5 had very good instructions on wiring it up and it seemed to make sense to put it in before I buttoned up the firewall. Here is a picture of the harness I had to modify. It was nerve-racking to take apart the factory harness, but overall it was not bad at all. 20121014-Cobra-0347 by akpingel, on Flickr
I picked up a lot of courage with that small project and decided to tackle the O2 sensors. I needed about 20" of additional wire in 2 places to get them routed like I wanted. Here is the stock harness cut from the car: 20121020-Cobra-0348 by akpingel, on Flickr
With the harness done, the last thing I needed to tackle to get the car running was the stupid cylinder head vent. Originally I intended to use the stock plastic piece found on the stock airbox. I had cut the piece off and attempted to glue it to the intake but it did not stick. So, with the help of my brother, we set out to find a better solution. In the end we decided it was easiest to just build a new one out of aluminum. A few measurements and we were off!
I recently stumbled upon Ford's 5.0 coyote instructions. I think they are new and it was a much needed read to figure out a few simple things like what is a good oil pressure is. One thing they thankfully mentioned was pre-lubing the engine, otherwise I probably would have missed this step. Thanks to this forum I was able to figure out how to do this without the capability of using the traditional drill-on-the-oil-pump method. I went to Lowe's and this is what I came up with-
Found a 3/8" barb that plugged right in the place of the stock oil pressure sensor. Simple. 20121123-Cobra-0768 by akpingel, on Flickr
Some basic tubing and a 12 dollar fertilizer sprayer and we are in business to get oil pumping through the block. 20121123-Cobra-0769 by akpingel, on Flickr
I started by hand pumping oil in to the block but I wasnt comfortable with how slow it was flowing. In my minds eye I could not see the oil moving up the chambers to the top of the cylinder head; the pressure did not seem high enough. As vindication I would remove the oil cap and find no signs of oil. So- I took the 12 dollar sprayer to the bench: 20121124-Cobra-0771 by akpingel, on Flickr
What happened next is so ugly I opted not to photograph. Actually, I couldn't touch my camera because I was covered in oil. I charged the air compressor to about 60 PSI. I plugged it up to the above apparatus and oil spewed everywhere. However I did find a way to blow 2-3 ounce quantities through at high rates of pressure, so I did this for about a pint or so and called it quits.
Ultimately I have no idea if I successfully primed the engine. I did find oil when I removed the oil cap but not in the volume i had hoped for. I decided that when it came time to fire up the engine that I would turn it over a couple times without fuel and hope for the best.
Not much to update since the first start. I have a small oil leak at the external filter due to an overtightened o-ring that I need to fix. I am going through the process of bleeding the brakes, just added trans and diff fluid, and installing the drive shaft. From there its building the hand-brake assembly and I will be ready to go-kart!
I replaced the O-ring on the external filter and the thing still leaks. It appears that it was leaking from both the bad o-ring as well as the filter. I think the filter is plenty tight, so I wonder if it's the surface of the filter adapter.
Well, I decided an oil leak wasn't going to stop progress any longer. I set out with my buddy today to accomplish some real progress, and we did. We double checked all of the suspension bolts, installed the drive shaft, bled the clutch and brakes, and finally added the steering shaft security washers. A bunch of small stuff, but it led to this: First Go Kart - YouTube
All I can say is I am still giddy about it! All of this time and money and at least now I have a neighborhood cruiser!! DSC_0775 by akpingel, on Flickr[/IMG]
__________________ gordon@levyracing.com Pro Builder and Go Fast Specialist
99/2000 NASA PSO Champion in a FFR
2005 FFR Challenge West coast Champions 2nd 2005 Nationals Sponsor for Tony B. ST-2 National Champion 2007
2009 TTC runner up-2010 TTB Runner up
Over 155 Turnkey FFR's in 16 years and still counting
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The Cobra
Misc Parts
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