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Old 05-27-2010, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Dash Mounting?

How do you position the dash to be mounted? Do you make it even and flush with the top of the curved frame bar or do you just center it with the steering shaft and hole? I need to position it so I can fabricate some brackets to hold it in to place. I do not want to place screws threw the leather to anchor it to the frame. I want to rivet brackets in to place prior to wraping the dash and mount the brackets to the frame to hold the dash in place.

If anyone has pictures of thier dash mounted prior to the body being installed would help alot!

Thank You,
Kurt
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The original dash mountings used screws through the leather to the top frame member. Looks like they used about five screws.

However, to help you with your mounting Eastwood sells a vice grip counter sunk tool to dimple the aluminum for counter sunk rivets which they also sell. This will help keep the leather flat where you are mounting the brackets.

Original dash of a CSX2000 series car. Note this car has the Stewart Warner gauges


George
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Kurt,

The correct answer of course is that you shouldnt mount the dash until the body is on so that you can push it up to meet the body and not have a gap.

From what I've read though, typically you want to be flush to about 1/16th high, the hoop and the dash arent the same curve, so it won't be the same gap throughout. Also, some of the painters suggest bringing the covering material past the dash, fold, and then back down the back in order to make a soft flap that will contact the body and fill any gap.

-Scott
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Since you mentioned the steering wheel hole. I had to move the pillow block all the way to the right for the steering wheel to line up nicely when the dash was centered on the hoop.
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Speaking of steering wheel hole. I added about 1/4-3/8" of shims to raise the steering wheel pillow block. Besides giving me better view of my tach every 1/4 inch gives me just that little bit more clearance for my legs.

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Old 05-27-2010, 02:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Velcro works just fine.
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Old 05-27-2010, 03:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I dont have a good pic of my brackets but definately wait until the body is on. I used a 2" piece of flat aluminum to make a bracket for each lower side and bolted them to the main square tube and the lower lip on the dash. I used the 2 support tubes in the center and nothing on top. It slid in on top just snug enough to keep it solid. I liked the clean look on top with no screws.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Someday I Suppose View Post
Kurt,

The correct answer of course is that you shouldnt mount the dash until the body is on so that you can push it up to meet the body and not have a gap.

From what I've read though, typically you want to be flush to about 1/16th high, the hoop and the dash arent the same curve, so it won't be the same gap throughout. Also, some of the painters suggest bringing the covering material past the dash, fold, and then back down the back in order to make a soft flap that will contact the body and fill any gap.

-Scott
IMPORTANT: Scott is correct.

this topic comes up quite a bit, and it's understandable because there is reasonable fear of "committing" to mounting your dash before the body is on.

the first tip is to understand that the dash hoop and dash panel top are NOT concentric, meaning the top of the arcs are not in the center. so you are right, line it up left to right by using the steering wheel opening and the steering wheel shaft.

the top of the dash panel will be about 3/16" above the top of the hoop (still keeping in mind that the top centers are not the same.)

and YES, if you feel more comfortable, you can use velcro until you get your body mounted.

in any case, snip off them edges, once they tuck behind the door hinge tabs, there is no reason to go the extra 5" or so. all it will do is make the mouting more cumbersome. you can't see past that area anyway.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I followed the instructions that Breeze have for mounting the dash. See them under Breeze's tech tips
http://www.breezeautomotive.com/tips.php

I hope like heck they are good instructions, as I haven't placed the body on the chassis yet..I did leave excess dash material on top, to tuck in if needed.

I drilled and tapped the dash hoop to accept 8-32 screws, and used finishing washers on them. I plan on using the same for my centre console, and Earls door trim panels.
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I believe I am going to fabricate a slide bracket that I can mount to the frame and to the dash. This way I can slide the dash up or down on the brackets and can secure it. Thanks for the tip on the Dimpling Plyers, I just ordered a set. Those will help out greatly in other areas too.

Once I have it figured out and come up with a good technique I will post some pics.

Thanks for all the tips and help!

Kurt
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Eddie, I just printed out your message and cut out the 'IMPORTANT: Scott is correct" part and put it on my office door :-)
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Old 05-27-2010, 04:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I pretty much ripped off dv/dt's version of hidden dash mounts from this thread. The only difference is that I epoxied the brackets to the dash instead of bolting them.

Hidden Dash Mounts - Show Pics! Please!

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Old 05-27-2010, 08:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You won't need to dimple the dash aluminum before riveting. The dash pad will cover them up just fine.

Greg
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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My Slide Bracket

Kurt, My slide bracket is adjustable front to back and vertically, bottom part is Aluminum and Dash part is Nylon. I apologize for the part details since I have a manual Milling Machine in my garage, but maybe something simpler could be done if you like the concept. I did use 2 screws though the vinyl on the sides with Nylon washers and decorative thin head allen SS screws...I think they look OK and it makes it super easy to remove the dash. Using Velcro on the hoop.







Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by SC289FI View Post
Thanks guys! I believe I am going to fabricate a slide bracket that I can mount to the frame and to the dash. This way I can slide the dash up or down on the brackets and can secure it. Thanks for the tip on the Dimpling Plyers, I just ordered a set. Those will help out greatly in other areas too.

Once I have it figured out and come up with a good technique I will post some pics.

Thanks for all the tips and help!

Kurt
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Velcro works just fine.
Not for me. Used actual Velcro brand industrial 1" wide strip across the entire length of the dash hoop. The velcro to velcro stayed together just fine but the adhesive loosened in the heat of the sun and let my CF dash droop.

Jeff
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:54 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I left an inch of extra material at the top of my dash just in case. That way if there is a gap the material covers it, if not it just tucks under the lip of the body.
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