I've heard that the plastic corrugated downspout drain-pipe from HD is the cheap way to go. Will it not melt on the sidepipes?
I'm thinking of installing dryer vents through the back walls, and attaching the hoses to the dryer vents with duct tape. (C*bra is on jack stands facing the garage door)
Any other ideas?
PS - 24" of snow here (Northern Virginia) (9 AM - supposed to go on through the day and into the night) The snow is very heavy - does not plow - each shovel full weighs 20 lbs.
Rich Townsend Lake Gaston, NC
You need a fan extractor to really do this. At our work, in the shop zones, we have a whole CARMON exhaust system. It starts with a powerful exhaust fan mounted in a mechanical room, vented through the roof, with duct work going all the down to the hose reel mounted on the wall. The hose is usually 4"~6" diameter corrugated metal.
I would not recommend trying this yourself...CO poisoning can lead to death
If you want to run the car for a short period of time, crack the garage door, turn on a fan and point it from in front of your sidepipes towards the door, and don't overdo it. In fact, you can be a CO detector and install it in your garage.
Lots of commercial garages use hose to pipe exhaust out of the shop without a suction fan. The pressure and velocity from the exhaust tends to suck air in at the end of the hose and they both go out the door. If you can bring fresh air in from outside by a fan it will help to push the fumes out.
We rigged up an exhaust setup on the AS car a few years ago by using aluminum dryer duct. I don't think it would make sense to use plastic sewer pipe. We found some high temperature aluminum tape that is used on furnace flues and can stand 300 degrees and makes a leak proof seal so exhaust gas is not getting into the garage. Home Depot has that high temp flue tape.
We made a connector out of .020 aluminum to connect to the car exhaust pipes and clamped it with 3 inch radiator hose clamps and ran it out to a metal wall dryer duct. We mostly did that so we could minimize the bitching from the neighbors about firing up a race car at 10-11 at night. Even a muffled race car sounds pretty loud in a quiet nieghborhood at that time of the night.
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I tried attaching corrugated dryer ducting to the side pipes and that was a complete waste of time and money. Those things flapped around like snakes on hot coals and just ripped apart. You don't realize how much exhaust comes out until you try and contain it. Whatever you use needs some strength to handle the pressure pulses.
Mk III, 3 Link, 347 EFI, AFR heads, Trick Flow intake, x cam, 3.73 Gears, 42 lb. Injectors, Moates Quarterhorse, Full Width Roll Bar
CO detector, under $20, loud alarm indicates a problem well before there is a dangerous contamination issue; mounts easily on ceiling or wall. Above is just one example of many products, usually battery powered.
TYPO: title should read "CO detector" ... whoops!
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I have my car on jack stands. When I want to let it run for a while I open the door and windows. I have a blower from a furnace that I set on the floor behind the car.It blows from the back of the garage toward the door.I start the car and leave the garage .Later I turn off the car and let the blower finish clearing out the garage.Not the best system, but it's better than nothing.I think two blowers would do much better.Roger
FFR 5168 MK II , 5.0,170 Trick Flow heads,Explorer Intake,75mm MAF,75TB,24lb injectors,Trickflow cam, Liberty built T5,4 link,Konis,Viper Red
I open a back window or side door and of course keep the big garage door open and use a big fan for cross flow ventilation. I don't face the same weather conditions as you, it doesn't snow here yet alone get below 40F very often. I don't think the vent hose option would work too good for the same reason Bob C. mentions.
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