Have you tried this? I was concerned that the Clevite bushing wouldn't fit into the FFR pivots which is why I was looking at the version with the custom pivots (and then would need to add the new "UCA End Pivot Stud"
I am not sure what you are talking about. The pivots, bushings and cross shafts are all included in the 94100. It is a matched set.
I am not sure what you are talking about. The pivots, bushings and cross shafts are all included in the 94100. It is a matched set.
Yes, but the 94100 won't bolt up to the FFR pivot stud which is why I added the second item (92005 - Pivot Stud).
On the FFR kit, the pivot stud comes off the cross shaft. On the SPC, the pivot stud bolts into the cross shaft as per the pic attached. The question I am asking then is it threaded the same as the FFR and if so, are the adjustable sleeves long enough.
Probably doesn't make sense to continue this debate as it appears that the 92142 will fit the bill.
The direct replacement for the F5 roadster using the SPC Performance upper control arms MINUS the ball joints is part #92142.. SPC advertises in Grassroots Motorsports magazine and has and ad directly stating that this is the arm to use as a replacement for your F5 roadster.. I right now looking at the June 2011 issue on page 185. They list for $128.93 minus the ball joint if bought directly from SPC..
Summit racing sells the control arm but they are more expensive at $149.95
VERY useful. The only problem is that the SPC website is spitting out a price of $161.16. Do you have a different link or can you scan a copy of that ad and post it?
Another option is the Levy upper arms. So what are the pros / cons for the Levy upper arms vs FFR and SPC? It would appear that these may not be as adjustable for caster?
Another option is the Levy upper arms. So what are the pros / cons for the Levy upper arms vs FFR and SPC? It would appear that these may not be as adjustable for caster?
I have that exact set up..They are very adjustable AND strong BUT I need to sell them since they do not work with pin drive wheels..others have also found this out.. Here is a picture of my set up..I have the F5 arms with the black arms BUT NOW I might have to sell these also since I autoX a lot in the car and they are known to bend under hard driving..
Yes, but the 94100 won't bolt up to the FFR pivot stud which is why I added the second item (92005 - Pivot Stud).
On the FFR kit, the pivot stud comes off the cross shaft. On the SPC, the pivot stud bolts into the cross shaft as per the pic attached. The question I am asking then is it threaded the same as the FFR and if so, are the adjustable sleeves long enough.
Probably doesn't make sense to continue this debate as it appears that the 92142 will fit the bill.
Thanks very much for the information. I don't know what I was thinking before. Must of been the vinylester resin fumes..
The 94100 cross shaft requires the 92005 pivot studs.
I find it distressing that many will dismiss this with FFR's stand that "it's a race car". It is assumed that a race car will require more attention and there's no argument to that. I didn't build my car for racing, but I take it to the track for spirited lapping when I can. I built the car as if my life depended on it (it does). I check the car as if my life depends on it (it does). But it would add a good deal of comfort if I didn't find that some of the parts that I have used were not engineered, manufactured, or quality-checked as if my life depends on it (it does).
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MK III, FRP 351/392, TKO 600, IRS, Delivered 12 Nov 06; First start 23 Aug 07; Go Kart 25 Aug 07.
I find it distressing that many will dismiss this with FFR's stand that "it's a race car". It is assumed that a race car will require more attention and there's no argument to that. I didn't build my car for racing, but I take it to the track for spirited lapping when I can. I built the car as if my life depended on it (it does). I check the car as if my life depends on it (it does). But it would add a good deal of comfort if I didn't find that some of the parts that I have used were not engineered, manufactured, or quality-checked as if my life depends on it (it does).
That is why I am replacing as many parts on my coupe so it is no longer a "race car". I want dependable parts. And in fact, since many people register these cars for the street, then they are no longer "race cars". Better parts are available and should be used, since FFR has no control over how these cars are built, they should use the parts that are the most dependable.
I will be using the SPC 94100 spindle arms with the correct 92005 pivot studs. I will be putting up the race car versions for anyone who wants to buy them.
I can't get this old post out of my head (particularly Gordon's post where he shows the mounting plate ripped completely off). Has anyone tried replacing just the control arm shafts with the SPC parts? Having the Clevite bushings would be a better long term solution and from what I have read, these are the parts that FFR supplied (company was later purchased by SPC) on the earlier models.
Replacing the whole assembly is an option but at $202.88 each it is kind of expensive.
I was considering just buying the control arm shafts and the mounting bolt for it (~$115 for each side) and mounting them to my existing assembly but would like to know if anyone else has tried this approach.
Todd, I just got my set yesterday, I'll be installing them on Monday. Ill let you know how it works out.
I'm very curious as well... mine failed in a different way. They now have too much slop to align properly. No burrs or galling, just bad tolerances. I'd love to just replace the bar.
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09, First start 2/28/11, gokart 10 minutes later
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Satisfied customer of: Factory Five Racing, Mike Forte, Breeze Automotive, Whitby Motors, Herb's Door Panels, Cobra Heat, Stewart Transport, Wayne Presley (Very Cool Parts), North Racecars, and Finish Line
I just inspected my UCA's and there fine with groves on both ends both sides. Kit arrived 12/12/06 new style UCA's
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302 w 351w heads 600 holley dual point IRS PIN DRIVE DELIVERED 12/12/06 FIRST START 4/15/07 8 miles on gocart 5/5/07 Licensed 6/20/09
Ive got one of the very early Mk4's built I think around Feb 2010. I got about 500 miles on mine before one of the UCA seized.
It wasnt a safety issue, just started making a very loud clunking sound.
I discussed this with FFR and they werent familiar with a fault simply indicated that I hadnt greased them sufficiently.
I accepted that, purcahsed a new one, greased the pergezza's out of it and its been fine.
Just discovered this thread and now you've all got me a bit concerned.
Regarding the Levy setup as a solution to the problems referenced in this thread, I wonder if Jetsbaby or others who have the Levy billet arms could comment on their applicability/fitment with the SAI mod and on the longevity of the Heim joints as the articulating part of the CA attachment.
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Here is a picture of my set up..I have the F5 arms with the black arms BUT NOW I might have to sell these also since I autoX a lot in the car and they are known to bend under hard driving..
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