Enough, I say - you guys are killing my budget!

[rscocca]

BUDGET, we don't need know stinken budget.

[TJVigilante]

now, while I haven't started my build yet, I'm keeping myself in check with a simple strategy: do I need this? If I do, can I do it myself? If I can't, do I know someone who can?

And the answers justify the build. For example: I want to go with a custom dash. i can do most of the planning myself, and I have a friend who has offered to do custom woodwork for me (for free plus cost of wood) in the past, but I've declined. So I think I have a good stock of offers to fall back on, for something I really need.

I also have friends who do metalworking and they've been pretty hard up for cash, so i can negotiate lower prices for labor, if I provide the materials. I've had people offer to teach me how to weld, fab, etc. also if I provide the materials. I can find materials for cheap to free. Therefore, additional mods tend to be a minimal cost for what I want. I will, however, need to spend some cash on a nicely balanced hidden stereo system and some other secret goodies that aren't ever going to be discussed on a public forum.

[CCRsAC]

I just came across this old post while doing a search and can't believe how far my build has morphed during the process.

I know this will cause Rich to hyperventilate, but to those guys who are new to the FFR community I say... "Build plan be damned - just do it and have fun along the way!!!!!"

My build was going to originally be what I would clasify as a 1/2 donor using the entire stock drivetrain out of a '94 SVT. Well, here's how that worked out...

[289FIA_Cobra]

Chris:

I'm here to help you. Honestly, nobody here is helping you with you addiction because they haven't figured out the cure.

Here's the cure...


"3.5% refinance - lower your monthly and have extra cash on hand to buy all those goodies that are blowing your budget!"

See, I'm helping!

[cobradawg]

You know if you are going to put all that money in all these important upgrades, you will want to get the most out of your investment, by driving it as much as possible. So for bad weather or rain you must get a soft or hard top. Of course either one could be considered a necessary to protect the leather seats and Mercedes type carpet.

[CCRsAC]

Originally Posted by cobradawg

You know if you are going to put all that money in all these important upgrades, you will want to get the most out of your investment, by driving it as much as possible. So for bad weather or rain you must get a soft or hard top. Of course either one could be considered a necessary to protect the leather seats and Mercedes type carpet.

Yeah, somewhere along the line in the 2.5 years since I first started this thread I did end up buying a soft top (the early FFR version that looked like the original tops - with the sliding lexan side curtains) and a tonneau. Along with a heater, windscreen squirters, etc... to make it an all-weather car (or at least as much as one of these could be called such a thing).

When I look at how my original build plan list of mods / features has exploded to over four pages (10 point font, no less), I just shrug. No matter what, though, I refuse to add-up all of the receipts!!!!

[KC Wildcat]

Chris, Don't worry I am breathing just fine

The budget and plan are not about limiting things - quite the contrary, I try to get people to think things through before they start (look before you leap). I say do it right the first time. My goal is saving time and more not replacing or reworking things. You can insulate the footboxes, switch to IRS, go with a big block all after a build is done - it just costs more, takes longer, and has a ripple effect if you do it after the fact. That big block means you need a different transmission, oh and heavier springs....probably better upgrade the brakes...damn, maybe I want power brakes now. Wow, that front is heavy, PS would be nice - we all know how that song goes. The sign of a good plan is that all the parts/systems work together and the resulting car is what you wanted and expected it to be. Even if you decide to start and do it in stages, plan things so you have an easy upgrade path - floor mats, visors, windwings, high back seats, seat heaters, oil coolers, airdamns, etc can all be added later or even prepared for in advance (run wires, maybe even the switch for the seat heaters),

[BULLITT428]

Hmmmmm...... I feel your pain? like my Signature says.

"it never seems to end"

Ed.

[Bill Hughes]

You have to get the Russ Thompson turn signal, 17 inch wheels!

[CCRsAC]

Originally Posted by Bill Hughes

You have to get the Russ Thompson turn signal, 17 inch wheels!

Check and check.

[dallas_]

Originally Posted by CCRsAC

I know this will cause Rich to hyperventilate, but to those guys who are new to the FFR community I say... "Build plan be damned - just do it and have fun along the way!!!!!"

Amen brother!

Put away that spreadsheet and pick up a wrench!

[CCRsAC]

I compiled a list of what I've done so far (or what I have the parts to do, where the work hasn't been completed yet). Here is my list of period-correct touches. Not all of these are accurate to an original AC, but they lend a nice vintage flair to the car.

Well - at least I had a budget in mind when I started this project...

• Riveted hood scoop – FFR supplied option
• Rivets ringing the leading edge of the hood
• Bumpers w/hoops – polished stainless steel (FFR)
• Roll hoop, driver’s side only – 1 ½” Mk4 version (FFR – chromed by Kerr West)
• Four-into-four headers and side pipes – semi-gloss black (FFR pipes ceramic coated by Lo-Ko)
• Smiths mechanical gauges set in an S/C dash layout – speedometer, tach, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volts, and fuel (Nisonger)
• Period correct switches, knobs, and indicator lights on dash – combination of OEM Ford and Lucas (Finishline and Moss Motors – mostly MG and Healy parts)
• Pull straps on doors (hooked to door latches to act as a release pull) – black leather (Cobra Restorers – also available from Breeze)
• Door panels, black, with map pockets – black vinyl (Herb’s)
• Locking glove box to match dash covering (RV supply house)
• Tags (AC Cars and Shelby American) – stamped with donor SVT engine # and my personal build #
• Dash to transmission tunnel tubes (non-structural – used to route speedo cable and rear wiring harness)
• Seat mounting pans (Breeze)
• Serge-bound carpet edges where visible
• Coco mats – custom floor mats in period-correct materials (Cocomats.com)
• Degas tank with “FoMoCo” stamped hoses and tower clamps – OEM Ford modified big block style (Ebay)
• Holley 650 cfm double-pumper with mechanical linkage
• Early-style engine front cover with V-belt pulleys
• OEM Ford dual-point distributor with Pertronix and Pertronix coil with yellow painted top
• Turkey pan for carb
• S&H air cleaner with K&N filter instead of green foam (Cobra Restorers)
• Hood opening under scoop modified to fit turkey pan
• Oil catch can on firewall (Original S/C design from Cobra Restorers – Kohler lawnmower gas tank version)
• Girling remote brake reservoir cans (pair from Moss Motors) with braided supply lines (Pegasus Auto Racing) and adapter nipples (Lodestone Billet Works) to attach to OEM Ford ’94 SVT master cylinder
• Original style hood hinges (Breeze)
• Hood hinge filler panel (Breeze)
• Hidden trunk hinges (Breeze)
• Windscreen washer squirters, bottle, and pump (Moss Motors)
• Turn signal – self cancelling with lever pointing to passenger side as original and no push switch on the end – small end custom made by Russ (Russ Thompson)
• Aluminum handle for OEM Ford parking brake lever – extra machining by me to add original shape (Replica Parts)
• Trunk lid support rod (Finishline)
• Trunk lid, modified without peak (FFR Mk4)
• Grommets in tail below trunk lid for bungee cord
• Grommets for bumper brackets (Finishline)
• Grommets for roll hoop (FFR)
• Rectangular tail lights with original Lucas lenses (Finishline – lenses sourced from private seller in England)
• Original Lucas lenses for front marker lights (private seller in England)
• Windshield support rod and bracket (Finishline)
• Vintage Road America water transfer “June Sprints” decal from ’65 (Ebay)
• Rockguards for headlamps (Finishline)
• Driving lights (Lucas P700) – mounted on bumper hoop in radiator opening (Moss Motors)
• Lucas Tri-Bar headlights (Moss Motors)
• Black e-tape on headlights
• FFR Halibrand-style wheels with knock-off centers (17x9 front & 17”x10.5” rear)
• Soft top and side curtains (FFR old-style with lexan sliding windows in side curtains)
• Tonneau cover – black vinyl (FFR)
• Lift-the-dot posts and side curtain ferrules for top and tonneau
• Rolled cowl front and rear with exposed rivet heads
• Rolled wheel well lips
• AC pedal covers (brake and clutch)
• Original-style throttle pedal on Russ Thompson pedal lever
• Side louvers painted body color (Finishline)
• Badges (Cobra enamel-style) for nose and tail (Finishline)
• AC badge for steering wheel center
• Waxed cord wrap on steering wheel at spokes
• “Powered by Ford” badges for sides (289 style without engine size)
• Wind wings with logo removed (FFR)
• Sunvisors (FFR)
• Windshield side post plates and washers – original style (Finishline)
• Grab handle on passenger side cowl – original style (Finishline)
• Safetywire on wheel knock-offs
• 1965 license plate (choice of Illinois or CA Shelby manufacturer)
• Shelby Motors license plate frame
• Trunk carpeting (FFR)
• Foot-well ducts with period-correct “pull” knobs on far outside edges of dash (PaulProe)
• Map reading light on passenger side of dash - Lucas (MGA parts from Moss)
• “The Last Open Road” sticker – Highly recommended fiction novel on road racing in the 1950’s by Burt Levy – the first in a series
• Engine bay battery box with Lucas decals and fake filler caps on battery (Breeze)
• Hilte low-expansion foam filler for inside doors (electrical contractor supply house or Ebay)
• Rolled door openings with exposed rivet heads
• Foot dimmer switch for headlamps (NPD for Ford OEM part)
• OEM Ford 1G alternator with “Autolite” production ink stamp and OEM appearing brackets
• OEM Ford voltage regulator (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• OEM Ford starter solenoid (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• Engine bay wiring harness (NPD reproduction Ford part)
• Oil cooler (FFR)
• Factory-appearing placards/decals/labels (Year One, NPD, Mustangs Plus, and Moss Motors)
• Trunk floor storage bin (Dark Water Customs)
• Tecalemit grease gun in trunk
• Tool roll with vintage tools
• Spare tire and jack (OEM Ford parts – space saver from donor car)
• Splashguards inside rear wheel wells (Dark Water Customs)
• Rear fender spats – aluminum (past vendor – Brian Alvarez)

Forgot about these - edited to add them -

Original style ashtray on top of trans tunnel (Cobra Restorers)
Lock-out style shift lever with correct flat-top black knob with 4-speed markings
Original style prop rod (homemade)

[CraigS]

You are doing it right. W/ everything I do whether it's guns,FFrs, cameras, or whatever I never add up the $. If I can do it and still pay all the bills, that's fine. If I can't get it today,maybe I can get it next month. Or maybe I'll come up w/ an alternative by next month. I bought a high end digital SLR about 4 yrs ago and really gulped when I handed over the credit card. But I have never regretted that purchase since it still works fine today. About 3 months later I came across two used pistols of a relatively rare variety of a regular make. Part of the camera balance was still on the credit card so I only bought one of the pistols. I have regretted it ever since because I have never seen a pistol of that variety again.
BTW, your FFR is a beauty!

[snakeboost]

I get to vicariously spend money I don't have............What am I the government?

Steve

[Big Blocker]

You mean you're doing hidden hinges and the Trunk lid mod but not thinking about the "drop butt mod" to go with it?

And as far as the budget goes . . . get a low interest credit card and make payments . . . less then a car payment if you spread it out a bit.

Just kidding on that last bit of advice . . .

My wife has always said: "I thought this car wasn't going to nickle and dime us to death with add-on's". My response has always been: "Honey, there isn't anything on this car that costs a nickle or a dime . . . get over it". I will say that she wants me to buy a soft top so we can do more cruises . . . I haven't told her that that would involve getting A/C installed . . . LOL!!

Doc

[CCRsAC]

[QUOTE=Big Blocker;2700104]You mean you're doing hidden hinges and the Trunk lid mod but not thinking about the "drop butt mod" to go with it?

It was in the plan, but after doing the body test fit at ride height, I didn't think it was necessary and prefer the extra trunk volume I have without the change.

[beartoothweb]

Did you already buy your rivets for the scoop and hood? I'm doing the same thing, and haven't decided what I'm using, just curious what you are.

[CCRsAC]

Originally Posted by beartoothweb

Did you already buy your rivets for the scoop and hood? I'm doing the same thing, and haven't decided what I'm using, just curious what you are.

I've been using Avex rivets for the build - they pull very uniformly and leave a good look on the back side. I'll either use those or go with the button head allen screws like many others have done.