Driveshaft Safety Loop - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
New Member
 
clays123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Orange NJ, State College PA
Posts: 324
Driveshaft Safety Loop

What is the best way to install the driveshaft safety loop? Should I use longer bolts and thread them right through the 4'' frame or use the shorter bolts and just tap into the 4"?
How do you guys do yours? Pictures would be helpful.
Clay

clays123 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 02:54 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: DC burbs - MD side
Posts: 3,670
There are lots of opinions. I threaded mine into the top of the 4" tubes as I am not a welder kind of person.
I believe it will hold in place in case of a catistrophic failure one time - that is what it would be needed for...


FFR4247K 306EFI, 75mm MAF, 70mm TB, Explorer Intake, 24# injectors, 1.7 rockers, 10:1 compression, T5, 8.8 3.08 3-Link, Coil overs, front & rear VPM bars, and 315 Mod

Last edited by StephenP; 09-11-2008 at 02:57 AM.
StephenP is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 02:55 AM
Dark Side
 
ZanexGt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fairfax Virginia
Posts: 316
Send a message via AIM to ZanexGt
Not meant to be a threadjack but ....

Has anyone received benefit from the safety loop directly on a FFR?

If the U joints on the driveshaft go, that driveshaft is Awfully close to the pelvis! I am thinking about installing one of these and just looking for opinions. I too am interested how you all installed your safety loops.

-Robert
FFR #6785 MK3.1 Complete Kit
Ordered: 08-27-08
Delivered: 10-19-08
Roller: 07-20-10
ZanexGt is offline  
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 03:10 AM
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: DC burbs - MD side
Posts: 3,670
One of the local guys had a U joint let go in his car. It chewed up the tranny tunnel pretty bad. Very lucky it was at low speed and very lucky that nobody was hurt.

Kind of started the trend locally that every car I know details on does have a loop.

FFR4247K 306EFI, 75mm MAF, 70mm TB, Explorer Intake, 24# injectors, 1.7 rockers, 10:1 compression, T5, 8.8 3.08 3-Link, Coil overs, front & rear VPM bars, and 315 Mod
StephenP is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 01:47 PM
Junior Charter Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Purple Venom's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Charles, MO.
Posts: 1,649
Here's another thread with a few photo's and ideas on this:
Driveshaft safety loops?

MKII, 460, Edelbrock Torker II Intake(Port Matched), Quick Fuel 750 Carb, Tremec 5 speed, Bridgestone Potenza R760 Tires - 432 Rwhp; 460 Rwtq

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Purple Venom is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 02:30 PM
dug
Charter Member
 
dug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 204
this link shows Mustang Man's loop. I plan to use it on my build.
Bolt-In Driveshaft Safety Loop Found
dug is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 06:43 PM
Senior Member
 
canuck1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Victoria, BC CANADA
Posts: 5,653
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by dug View Post
this link shows Mustang Man's loop. I plan to use it on my build.
Bolt-In Driveshaft Safety Loop Found
You might want to check with Mustang Man. I think he discarded that idea for his car(?). If I recall it did not provide enough clearance for driveshaft movement once he finally had all the parts together to check it.

It would probably work fine in an IRS car.

Sean

MK 3.5 (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 351W stroked & poked to 396 c.i., custom EFI, 4 into 4's, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, full bumpers, 2 X roll bars, I electronics, hydroboost, 5-lug, GT front, MK VIII/Cobra rear discs, painted by SRP (again!)
canuck1 is online now  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 06:47 PM
Moderator
 
Kouros's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,597
I went through the 4" and weled any spot I could. Yes over-kill on this one as I have seen pictures of one that came through the cock-pit aluminum. If there was a passenger, they'd be missing a lrg today. I bought it from Summitracing.com

-Kouros
Kouros is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 07:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Brian F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fall City, Washington
Posts: 5,456
I bought a universal loop from JEGS and welded it to the underside of the frame tubes.

Non-Donor MKIII Delivered Oct. 18, 2005
Complete June 21, 2006

351w 400hp, T5, 3-link, 3:55


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brian F is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
New Member
 
clays123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South Orange NJ, State College PA
Posts: 324
Thanks very much guys, you all have been most helpful.
Clayton

clays123 is online now  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 11:52 PM
Daily Driver since 2/03
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: vacaville, CA
Posts: 968
When I was considering this, I thought that I should put in 2 loops. One for the front and one for the back. The shaft seems too short for just one loop to do much good. If you put just 1 loop in the middle, it seems that it could still thrash around quite a bit.

Has anyone put 1 loop in the middle and checked where the shaft could go if something gave way (both front and back, u-joints, bolts, flange, and sleeve)?

blue/white, 302 w/mass-flo, 3.55 gears, 2 roll bars, PS Eng wheels, 275/40 zr 17, 245/45 zr 17, Ipod & cruise control on the tranny tunnel
dwheeler is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 01:46 PM
FFCobra Fanatic
FFCars Captain
 
5.8Cobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: CT
Posts: 5,181
I believe in the NHRA rulebook it says to place the loop 6" behind the front U joint. That would put our loop at the pinion flange since the actual tube is only about 4" long! I would say right in the middle would be fine. Its more for driver/passenger safety rather than keeping the car from catapulting when the driveshaft hits the ground! Anywhere you put it will be better than not having one at all! HTH

Mike

FFR 2166: 383Windsor, Vortech YS, TFS box intake,Dynod 652 rwhp , 9/11" Team III's 255/315 NT-05 Nittos, Vintage Autometers, PS, Power M2300K 13"/11.65" brakes, Tremec TKO midshift, SAI Mod, LEVY 5 Link, Gas-N pipes, Konis

FFR 3107 Built & Sold
FFR 1990 Built & Sold
FFR 7330 Built & Sold

FFR 4948 purchased 2013 incomplete, IRS planned 351W,Tremec,3.27's
5.8Cobra is online now  
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 02:44 PM
Senior Member
 
dv/dt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 15,518
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwheeler View Post
When I was considering this, I thought that I should put in 2 loops. One for the front and one for the back. The shaft seems too short for just one loop to do much good. If you put just 1 loop in the middle, it seems that it could still thrash around quite a bit.
That's what I did and for that reason.







More pics and info here:
Driveshaft Hoop System - DRAWINGS ADDED 1

Cheers, Rod

"Can you imagine?!"

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
dv/dt is online now  
post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 04:28 PM
Junior
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
03SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Fleming Island, Fl
Posts: 1,517
I think there might be a market for those Rod.

FF6854 - Completed 7/12/12 SOLD 8/28/2012
Levy 5-link, Levy Billet LCA's, Willwood 6/4's, Levy DA Konis, SAI mod
LR narrowed 8.8, Comp Bumpsteer. Stage 5.5 408W, Super Alloy T-5+, Ron Davis Cooling System, LR Custom Headers and Sidepipes. Performance Automotive Paint.
Build pics below:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
03SC is offline  
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 04:56 PM
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 9,014
Send a message via Yahoo to Mustang Man
Sorry I'm late to the party here, but yes, the loop provided with the TCP Mustang kit is too small and would touch the DS on full articulation. I also was planning to install from the top, which would not work with some that do not have a removable trans tunnel. I still have the parts and might try to figure something out in my "ample spare time" but I'm hoping the guys at Metco Motorsports (the ones building the Shelby GT500 5.4 modular Mk III) will come up with something since they have a full line of bolt in loops for classic and late-model Mustangs...

Mark

FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now  
post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 05:19 PM
Senior Member
 
NBWW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,506
Tapping the 4" tube will only make you feel good. It is only .125" thick. For that to be proper, it should be as thick as the diameter of the bolt used.
I also would not bolt through the tube as it could compress when tightened.

That only leaves welding tabs for attaching brackets in my opinion.
NBWW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.