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Old 09-11-2008, 01:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Driveshaft Safety Loop

What is the best way to install the driveshaft safety loop? Should I use longer bolts and thread them right through the 4'' frame or use the shorter bolts and just tap into the 4"?
How do you guys do yours? Pictures would be helpful.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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There are lots of opinions. I threaded mine into the top of the 4" tubes as I am not a welder kind of person.
I believe it will hold in place in case of a catistrophic failure one time - that is what it would be needed for...
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not meant to be a threadjack but ....

Has anyone received benefit from the safety loop directly on a FFR?

If the U joints on the driveshaft go, that driveshaft is Awfully close to the pelvis! I am thinking about installing one of these and just looking for opinions. I too am interested how you all installed your safety loops.
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Old 09-11-2008, 02:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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One of the local guys had a U joint let go in his car. It chewed up the tranny tunnel pretty bad. Very lucky it was at low speed and very lucky that nobody was hurt.

Kind of started the trend locally that every car I know details on does have a loop.
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's another thread with a few photo's and ideas on this:
Driveshaft safety loops?
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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this link shows Mustang Man's loop. I plan to use it on my build.
Bolt-In Driveshaft Safety Loop Found
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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this link shows Mustang Man's loop. I plan to use it on my build.
Bolt-In Driveshaft Safety Loop Found
You might want to check with Mustang Man. I think he discarded that idea for his car(?). If I recall it did not provide enough clearance for driveshaft movement once he finally had all the parts together to check it.

It would probably work fine in an IRS car.

Sean
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I went through the 4" and weled any spot I could. Yes over-kill on this one as I have seen pictures of one that came through the cock-pit aluminum. If there was a passenger, they'd be missing a lrg today. I bought it from Summitracing.com

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Old 09-11-2008, 06:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I bought a universal loop from JEGS and welded it to the underside of the frame tubes.
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Old 09-12-2008, 06:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks very much guys, you all have been most helpful.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When I was considering this, I thought that I should put in 2 loops. One for the front and one for the back. The shaft seems too short for just one loop to do much good. If you put just 1 loop in the middle, it seems that it could still thrash around quite a bit.

Has anyone put 1 loop in the middle and checked where the shaft could go if something gave way (both front and back, u-joints, bolts, flange, and sleeve)?
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I believe in the NHRA rulebook it says to place the loop 6" behind the front U joint. That would put our loop at the pinion flange since the actual tube is only about 4" long! I would say right in the middle would be fine. Its more for driver/passenger safety rather than keeping the car from catapulting when the driveshaft hits the ground! Anywhere you put it will be better than not having one at all! HTH

Mike
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Old 09-13-2008, 01:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwheeler View Post
When I was considering this, I thought that I should put in 2 loops. One for the front and one for the back. The shaft seems too short for just one loop to do much good. If you put just 1 loop in the middle, it seems that it could still thrash around quite a bit.
That's what I did and for that reason.







More pics and info here:
Driveshaft Hoop System - DRAWINGS ADDED 1

Cheers, Rod
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Old 09-13-2008, 03:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think there might be a market for those Rod.
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Old 09-13-2008, 03:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Sorry I'm late to the party here, but yes, the loop provided with the TCP Mustang kit is too small and would touch the DS on full articulation. I also was planning to install from the top, which would not work with some that do not have a removable trans tunnel. I still have the parts and might try to figure something out in my "ample spare time" but I'm hoping the guys at Metco Motorsports (the ones building the Shelby GT500 5.4 modular Mk III) will come up with something since they have a full line of bolt in loops for classic and late-model Mustangs...

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Old 09-13-2008, 04:19 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Tapping the 4" tube will only make you feel good. It is only .125" thick. For that to be proper, it should be as thick as the diameter of the bolt used.
I also would not bolt through the tube as it could compress when tightened.

That only leaves welding tabs for attaching brackets in my opinion.
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