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Old 08-12-2008, 12:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HELP!! courtesy lights wiring

I'm hope some can help shead some light on on my lighting problem. I want to wire up my LED's I have in the foot wells to light up when the doors open. I want to have both light go on when either door opens. I was planning on using the standard GM style door jam switches. I'm open to any suggestions


Got my Kit on 4/26/08 did the go-kart run on 7/26/08 hoping to put the body on this weekend in gel-coat.
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Old 08-12-2008, 12:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sooo, whats the question? Can you use that type switch?
If so, yes you can. Just remember that type switch is your ground. Power needs to be going to the light at all times. Opening the door make you ground and the light goes on.
Or, you can use a relay and set it up like a horn would be wired. Still again, the switch is a ground..
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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low power LEDs should not need a relay.

you can switch the positive or the ground side of circuit, it'll work the same.

For Convincor way, +12(from existing interior lights) to + side of LED, - side of LED to one side of switch, other side of switch to ground. If switch has one connector it should ground thru mounting. With fiberglass body you should probably use switch with two connectors.

( Does switch have one connector or two)???

Switch should open when depressed (door closed) & switch is closed when door opens (completing circuit).
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Problem with those switches is where to mount them where they will contact the VERY narrow edge of the horizontal hinge plates...

I too wanted to wire in interior lights with door switches (since the AAW harness has a plug in pigtail for the wiring) but as of yet have not figured exactly how and what switch to use. Possibly one of those micro-switches with a roller tip (like used for nitrous systems) or one of the street rod magnetic setups in the door area (near the latch end not the hinge end)...

Someday when I have some spare time (yeah right!) I'll figure it out...

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Old 08-12-2008, 02:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've got 65/67 Mustang switchs that I plan on using(when I get a chance)
Going to use the lower hinge arm to push the plunger in. May weld a little flat tab to make the arm to switch contact area a little bigger.
http://mustangsunlimited.reachlocal....atkey=emustang

With this switch you also have the choice of running 12 volts or ground..
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Convincor beat me to it
Those switchs are designed so the body of the switch is the ground curcuit provided by the metal door frame most are installed in.
You would need to run a ground wire to the body. Then 12v to the terminal.
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hind sight, that GM type switch could be mounted in the 2x2 tube the hinge mounts to. which would be the ground point.
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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In my street rod with a Glass body I used the same style switch except it was for the Corvette, it worked great. I would think you could fab up a bracket to mount a micro switch off of the door hinges.
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I looked at the mustang plug switches but they are huge.
I was planning on putting them in the 2X2 tube I have the GM style and the DOOR JAMB SWITCH UNIVERSAL FOR FIBERGLASS VEHICLES
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The concern with the 2x2 is you will have to drill two holes, one in front for the switch and one behind it for the wires to pass through...

The old Mustang switches I'm certainly aware of but it still doesn't take into account the small hinge surface area, and mine are already powder coated!

I'll think of something when I have the time, right now I'm still working on this trunk trim fiasco...

Mark
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Old 08-12-2008, 04:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Convincor good idea
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Depending on how your doors adjust, there is enough room in the slot that the hinges bolt on to run that switch really easy right in the end of the slot. If I remember right, one side works perfectly and is actuated by the curved part of the hinge and one side needs a little bracket to actuate it.

I would buy a couple of those switches, use them on the ground side, and look at your hinge area close. It will be clear what to do!

R
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I used those switches and used the edge of the hinge to actuate them. Obviously, the edge is pretty thin so as a proof of concept, I put a small black binder clip on the hinge to increase the contact surface area. Since my hinges are black, you can't see the clips unless you REALLY look and they work so well, I've never changed them out.
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I believe those switches are available with one or two connectors - I don't think all use the ground.

They'll work great for fiberglass bodies

Check 70's & 80's GM's at the local part store.

Here's one

http://www.firewheelclassics.com/sto...bCategoryID=42

here's another from mopars - bigger threaded section for more grip on mounting.
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...d=NG1031&trk=1
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hey thanks all for the help and suggestions. I got my wiring squared away last night and I think I'm going with the GM switch in the 2X2 providing I have room for them after the doors are hung.
Hope fully the body will go on tonight.

Speaking of the body does anyone have pictures of the all the rubber weather and bulb seals on the car. I want to know if I miss something or not.

Thanks again
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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No pics but.
foam tape around the hood opening and dash hoop
Bulb seal on the trunk aluminum.
expanding foam on the sides of each foot box.
Believe that was it?
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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If you set up the system with a Main Disconnect switch that is Turned On when you sit down, then you will have no power on the doors at that point.......unless you run a fused power source from the battery.

These lights also are useful when in the car with the doors closed. I assume there is a switch function in your dash/wiring to turn them on when needed to look for errant purses, ball caps and speeding tickets.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Mine has the AAW headlight switch which has a "Dome Light Ground" connection. So it can be wired to work just off the door switch and/or off the headlight switch.
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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That was actually my original plan, to just wire off of the AAW headlight switch and flick the interior lights on as needed for belting up, dropped keys, etc. I'd still like to do the door light switch though too...

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Old 03-19-2009, 04:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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What about this one?


I was thinking of mounting it in the vertical "hinge plate". The 2X2 would have a 1" to 1 1/2" hole in it to allow for door adjustment and wire pass through. This would eliminate need to aim for the narrow edge of the horizontal hinge plates while allowing you to readjust the doors as needed.

I would weld a tube through the hole of the 2X2 so it would remain strong.
Your thoughts?

Nothing like being a few months behind ha?
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Old 03-19-2009, 03:26 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I wired a pair of led's to a small rocker switch that I mounted to the under dash panel. It's right under the headlight switch, easy to find and turn on before you get in the car. Only need it at night.

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