I'm hope some can help shead some light on on my lighting problem. I want to wire up my LED's I have in the foot wells to light up when the doors open. I want to have both light go on when either door opens. I was planning on using the standard GM style door jam switches. I'm open to any suggestions
Got my Kit on 4/26/08 did the go-kart run on 7/26/08 hoping to put the body on this weekend in gel-coat.
Sooo, whats the question? Can you use that type switch?
If so, yes you can. Just remember that type switch is your ground. Power needs to be going to the light at all times. Opening the door make you ground and the light goes on.
Or, you can use a relay and set it up like a horn would be wired. Still again, the switch is a ground..
you can switch the positive or the ground side of circuit, it'll work the same.
For Convincor way, +12(from existing interior lights) to + side of LED, - side of LED to one side of switch, other side of switch to ground. If switch has one connector it should ground thru mounting. With fiberglass body you should probably use switch with two connectors.
( Does switch have one connector or two)???
Switch should open when depressed (door closed) & switch is closed when door opens (completing circuit).
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Problem with those switches is where to mount them where they will contact the VERY narrow edge of the horizontal hinge plates...
I too wanted to wire in interior lights with door switches (since the AAW harness has a plug in pigtail for the wiring) but as of yet have not figured exactly how and what switch to use. Possibly one of those micro-switches with a roller tip (like used for nitrous systems) or one of the street rod magnetic setups in the door area (near the latch end not the hinge end)...
Someday when I have some spare time (yeah right!) I'll figure it out...
I've got 65/67 Mustang switchs that I plan on using(when I get a chance)
Going to use the lower hinge arm to push the plunger in. May weld a little flat tab to make the arm to switch contact area a little bigger. http://mustangsunlimited.reachlocal....atkey=emustang
With this switch you also have the choice of running 12 volts or ground..
Convincor beat me to it
Those switchs are designed so the body of the switch is the ground curcuit provided by the metal door frame most are installed in.
You would need to run a ground wire to the body. Then 12v to the terminal.
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In my street rod with a Glass body I used the same style switch except it was for the Corvette, it worked great. I would think you could fab up a bracket to mount a micro switch off of the door hinges.
FFR#5435, 1991 Donor 5.0 EFI,345 HP T-5 WCZ, 3-Link, 3:55TL, Go Kart 02/15/09
Mods: Expanded foot boxes, Fwd Firewall, Expanded trunk, Foot box skid plates, Fwd Battery, Vented foot box's, Heater, Heated Seats, Dead Pedal,
Depending on how your doors adjust, there is enough room in the slot that the hinges bolt on to run that switch really easy right in the end of the slot. If I remember right, one side works perfectly and is actuated by the curved part of the hinge and one side needs a little bracket to actuate it.
I would buy a couple of those switches, use them on the ground side, and look at your hinge area close. It will be clear what to do!
Robert, I really miss you man.
FFR Roadster Mark III, 500hp Small Block Chevrolet, TKO600, BMW Imola Red with silver ghost flamed stripes by the immortal Batman
"There's nothing you can't do, only stuff you haven't done yet!"
I used those switches and used the edge of the hinge to actuate them. Obviously, the edge is pretty thin so as a proof of concept, I put a small black binder clip on the hinge to increase the contact surface area. Since my hinges are black, you can't see the clips unless you REALLY look and they work so well, I've never changed them out.
Hey thanks all for the help and suggestions. I got my wiring squared away last night and I think I'm going with the GM switch in the 2X2 providing I have room for them after the doors are hung.
Hope fully the body will go on tonight.
Speaking of the body does anyone have pictures of the all the rubber weather and bulb seals on the car. I want to know if I miss something or not.
If you set up the system with a Main Disconnect switch that is Turned On when you sit down, then you will have no power on the doors at that point.......unless you run a fused power source from the battery.
These lights also are useful when in the car with the doors closed. I assume there is a switch function in your dash/wiring to turn them on when needed to look for errant purses, ball caps and speeding tickets.
PHILLIP, SemperFi, They call the wind MARIAH.
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That was actually my original plan, to just wire off of the AAW headlight switch and flick the interior lights on as needed for belting up, dropped keys, etc. I'd still like to do the door light switch though too...
I was thinking of mounting it in the vertical "hinge plate". The 2X2 would have a 1" to 1 1/2" hole in it to allow for door adjustment and wire pass through. This would eliminate need to aim for the narrow edge of the horizontal hinge plates while allowing you to readjust the doors as needed.
I would weld a tube through the hole of the 2X2 so it would remain strong.
Nothing like being a few months behind ha?
06/12/04 ordered MK III roadster, 4.6 DOHC, T-45 5 spd, IRS, dual roll bars, Delivered 8/4/04, started 7-8-08, Back from paint 9-26-09, ****GRADUATED**** 6/14/10
Last edited by TD; 03-19-2009 at 05:12 AM..
Reason: added late comment
I wired a pair of led's to a small rocker switch that I mounted to the under dash panel. It's right under the headlight switch, easy to find and turn on before you get in the car. Only need it at night.
If it weren't for physics and law enforcement...I'd be unstoppable!
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