Bolt-In Driveshaft Safety Loop Found - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
FFCars.com Forums Advertisers Build Sites FFR FAQ Gallery

Go Back   FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum > Factory Five Racing Roadsters > Factory Five Roadsters
Register Garage iTrader FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto Loans


FFcars.com is the premier factory five cars Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-18-2006, 02:23 AM   #1 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Exclamation

I mentioned this product several months ago in another post. I finally picked one up, and though my driveshaft isn't here yet, a quick visual install looks like there will be no problem clearing the shaft.

This is a Mustang/Cougar safety loop from Total Control Products. The page for the product is HERE.

All I had to do was take the frame bracket (this usually bolts to their Mustang subframe connectors) and "unbend" the 90-degree bracket back to a 45-degree. My neighbor has a hydraulic brake at his shop and did it for me.





As you can see in these pictures the loop is adjustable vertically (about half an inch) and comes with the mounting hardware. You will have to get longer bolts if you decide to bolt it to the horizontal 1-inch brace. Welding the angled bracket to the frame is also a possibility.

I think this is a real clean solution and keeps the mounting up high above the four-inch main frame tubes.

Hope this helps someone. I'll post pics once the driveshaft is in...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-18-2006, 02:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
FFCobra Fanatic
FFCars Craftsman
 
thardin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: East Haddam, CT
Posts: 868
Post

Mark,

Very clean solution. That will add a bit of protection and looks like a simple install.

Thanks for the heads-up

Tom
__________________
MK III # 4011 / 340ci World Products 9.2 deck block, Yates C3, 629hp@7,700rpm, Dry sump, Quartermaster Extreme V8.5 set-up, TKO600RR.82, IRS Torsen 3.73, SAI mod, Spherical bearing IRS mod, Schroeder sway bars, etc.
thardin is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 02:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
FFCobra Fanatic
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
edhunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Transplanted LSU Alumni, VA
Posts: 1,970
Post

Mark, do you have and IRS rear? Just wondering if you'll have enought verticle room with a solid rear....
Looks nice anyway, perhaps I could take my oval hoop and weld a similar fitting at the top? something to tinker with one day... My summit hoop is still in the box...
__________________
MkIII, 351W with all the fixin\'s...
edhunter is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 02:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Post

It is a 3-link...

Right now the rear is a bit high for ride height (photo with car on the ground)...

Once I get the driveshaft in and ride height set I'll cycle the suspension and make sure there's no concern of the shaft rubbing the loop at full droop (which I don't think there will be)...

Also remember the shaft will move the most at the differential end, not the trans end...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 03:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
FFCobra Fanatic
FFCars Captain
 
5.8Cobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: CT
Posts: 4,846
Post

I was concerned with the suspension travel as well, just out of curiosity, whats the diameter of the loop?

Mike
__________________
FFR 2166: 383Windsor, Vortech YS, TFS box intake,Dynod 652 rwhp , 9/10.5" Bullitts 255/315 Sumitomos, Vintage Autometers, PS, Power M2300K 13"/11.65" brakes, Tremec TKO midshift, SAI Mod, LEVY 5 Link, Gas-N pipes

FFR 3107 Built & Sold
FFR 1990 Built & Sold
FFR 7330 Built & Sold

FFR 4948 purchased 2013 incomplete, IRS planned 351W,Tremec,3.27's
5.8Cobra is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 03:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Post

According to their data sheet on the web site the loop is 5 1/5-inch ID x 2-inch wide x 1/4-inch thick with grade 8 mounting hardware.

It is mild steel "to allow distortion of loop without breakage" the sheet says...

The mounting tab and bracket are 1/4-inch thick as well...

Adjustment slots allow for 1/2-inch vertical and 3/8-inch horizontal adjustment (from mounted position)...

The loop is powder coated and the bracket is zinc coated...

HTH...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 06:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

Please keep us updated on how it works with your 3-link rear.

This is the kind of item we could make ourselves -- possibly even a bit larger - 6" diameter? If room becomes an issue.


I am a litle leery of bolting it the the frame brace where you have it sitting in your pictures....0.050" wall 3/4x3/4 isn't exactly the strongest metal to be bolting/welding to...

-SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-18-2006, 12:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
convincor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor Connecticut
Posts: 5,887
Post

looks like mine. I did one on each end(IRS), capturing at the u-joints. front is attached to 4" tube as well as the 3/4" diagnal brace at top.
Rear attaches to the two 3/4" vertical tubes at rear.
__________________
MarkIII,FFR1003975RD, IRS,3.27's,pin drive,FE,toploader.... SOLD!!
68 F100 Shorty, 396cu. FE, C6, 9inch(in progress?)
"A man has got to know his limitations"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/
convincor is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2006, 04:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

Very nice. What diameter pipe is that you used?

You know, this is probably a much better solution than the bolt-in universal safety loops, as they will hold the errant driveshaft within a smaller space meaning less (if any) tunnel damage.

-SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2006, 04:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 658
Post

That is a nice solution. Unfortunately, it would be a nightmare to retro fit. Goes into the category of things I should have done during the build...

- Jesse
Jesse is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2006, 04:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Post

I don't know Jesse. The aluminum right over that brace I don't think touches. You could drill from underneath, run the bolts UP and into nuts welded to the bracket. Worst case, you drill through the aluminum and the brace and you would have two bolt heads at the rear of the cockpit where the tunnel meats the rear wall. Cover them with a small bit of carpet or just paint the bolt heads black?

Where there's a will, there's a way!

As soon as I get my driveshaft from Mike Forte I will take more pics and report on this...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2006, 06:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
section 8
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Gilligans Island NC
Posts: 5,088
Post

I like it ! I don't think shaft movement is a problem the shaft is only like the size of your foot .It can't move side to side if it's in 1 piece and it's bolted to the chassis which moves with the suspension. That skinny square tubing scares me I have has some experience welding it (uhh burning holes in it" ) Way back when I worked with wood we would "laminate" boards together to make headers for door or windows . This can be done with steel as well. Bob
__________________
FFR5020 MK III Whitby body +paint, sai mod, Tremec,408, Cobra/Oben brakes , Halibrands, mass flo , gas n pipes, levy rad team3 spinners.Fortes driveshaft, pulleys ,and quick release steering.. Previously Bob T****r
Bongo Bob is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2006, 05:18 AM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
66fstbk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 1,051
Post

I saw one of those in a TC flyer a couple weeks ago. I really wouldn't want to take my shaft out now as it was a tight fit and my floors are in. I am leaving the top of the tunnel removable though.
My thought is to buy a section of similar dia tube but make it about 2-3 times as long to contain more of the shaft and u joints. Then split it in half longwise and weld tabs so it can be bolted back together. This should cost less and protect more.
__________________
John
MKIII, IRS,PDW, Jeff Miller paint.302, AFR165,Carb,T5,Hydroboost PB/PS,I-squared,TeamIII.
66fstbk is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 03:25 AM   #14 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 26
Post

I'll be installing a loop in mine as soon as I get a new shaft and yoke. I had the U joint fail on me today and it bent the frame and knocked a good hole through the tunnel. Glad I didnt have a passenger with me.
eblick is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 03:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
Junior Charter Member
 
bhgkiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Orleans, La
Posts: 13
Post

Dumb Question: What purpose does the drive shaft loop serve on a roadster? I always thought the purpose of them was to prevent the shaft from contacting the pavement in the instance of a broken drive shaft. I dont see how this short little shaft could hit the ground.
bhgkiks is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 04:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

They are to prevent the driveshaft hitting anything....including flesh and bone after it rips through the aluminum panels. Check out the post above yours.

- SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 04:43 AM   #17 (permalink)
Newbie Lurker
FFCars Craftsman
 
caropepe's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 606
Post

eblick -- Any pictures? I'm curious to see the damage caused by this happening.

Joe
__________________
FFR MkIII.05 #6385 - 306 C.I. EFI | Edelbrock Performer RPM II Intake/Performer Heads | E303/1.7 | MSD 6AL/Pro-Billet | 36# Injectors | 70mm BBK Throttle Body | BBK Equal Length Headers | B&M Shifter | 3.55 Gear | 17x315 & 17x275
Ordered:8/2007
Delivered: 11/2007
Engine Start: 8/23/2008
Go-Cart: 9/6/2008
Registered: 4/10/2009

Paint: 11/18/2010
Build | Write | Capture | Spend | Repeat?
caropepe is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 04:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
FFCobra Fanatic
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Doug R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 1,602
Post

That's a beautiful and elegant alternate to the traditional solutions. BUT.... How do you change out you u-joints without pulling the trans tunnel cover, the engine or the rearend (pick one). It would be perfect if it could be attached and removed from under the car.
__________________
Doug Rosier
FFR #4737. IRS, Dual Roll Bars, 427w, TKO, Wilwood Brakes, Mass-Flo Fuel Injection, Bullit Wheels, a Bimini Top and Plenty of Fun!

Need a top for your FFR? Send PM
Doug R is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 01:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
convincor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor Connecticut
Posts: 5,887
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by Joe C.:
eblick -- Any pictures? I'm curious to see the damage caused by this happening.

Joe
http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb...76.html#000000
__________________
MarkIII,FFR1003975RD, IRS,3.27's,pin drive,FE,toploader.... SOLD!!
68 F100 Shorty, 396cu. FE, C6, 9inch(in progress?)
"A man has got to know his limitations"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/
convincor is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 02:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: East Haddam, CT
Posts: 573
Post

I used the Summit hoop on my car but wounder (for the sake of argument) what the odds might be for a street driven Cobra with a realistic rear end ratio on street compound tires destroying a drive shaft or its universals? These cars get a lot more maintenance by their owners than a daily driver will ever see and are not frequently driven in poor road or weather conditions. Drive line failures for nor race driven Cobra's should not be very likely. Half shaft failures on the original 427's happened and often was a very scary event. I don't recall any drive shaft or universals flying apart in the '60's cars. If the shaft or universals do go the carnage that follows is caused mostly because of the very short drive shaft (the linked photos tell the story quite well). I'm still a fan of better safe than sorry (that was the reason I purchased a hoop in the first place) but I doubt that many non raced Cobra's will have drive line failures. I think Mark's solution is both simple, elegant and money well spent. Wish I used that hoop instead of the rather ungainly looking one form Summit.
RB
__________________
FFR 3881 MK II Grey w/black stripes 427 FE, dual 4bbl, 4 speed top loader, Sube SS Roadster seats & \'64 427 Thunderbolt clone
Commodore is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 02:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

RB,

Clutch failures are rare too but for the $300 a scattershield costs and $20 a driveshaft safety loop cost I think it's just foolish to omit them.

A blown clutch in a car with the roadster's layout could easily amputate both legs....and there is a post 3 or 4 above yours talking about a universal joint failure.

- SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 02:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
SR71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 3,378
Post

It looks like it will do the trick... and a clean installation to boot. The drive shaft safety hoop and a steel bell housing are high on my list of inexpensive "should have" Cobra safety features.
__________________
Regards
Kevin

Cobra Sold….63 Grand Sport on the horizon
My Cobra Website:http://www.legacygarage.com
SR71 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 03:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: East Haddam, CT
Posts: 573
Post

SB,
Needless to say, my FE is shielded too. I wounder if the high revving sports cars available today use steel bell housings? A 7000rpm S2000 Honda should be able to throw clutch parts far and wide.
RB
__________________
FFR 3881 MK II Grey w/black stripes 427 FE, dual 4bbl, 4 speed top loader, Sube SS Roadster seats & \'64 427 Thunderbolt clone
Commodore is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 04:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Post

DougR...

If you look at the design, the hoop unbolts from the bracket. So even if you weld the bracket in, or bolt it in so that you can't access the bolts with the interior in place you can still unbolt the hoop from the bracket and remove it with the driveshaft together.

Sorry, no update on fit/install yet. I haven't ordered my driveshaft from Mike yet...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 09:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by RB:
I wounder if the high revving sports cars available today use steel bell housings? A 7000rpm S2000 Honda should be able to throw clutch parts far and wide.
Actually amazing as it is an S2000's redline is closer to 9,000RPM stock! For safety's sake they probably SHOULD have a scattershield, but they do not.

Of course, the big difference between the "average" street car and what we are driving is the location of the clutch itself. On our cars it's right beside our knees, but on your average RWD street car, it's somewhere around our feet and so presents less body part removal potential.

Then again, look at your average transverse engined FWD disposable mobile. If one of those clutches ever let go, it could slice you in half!!


-SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 09:07 PM   #26 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

Holy double post, Batman !
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2006, 09:47 PM   #27 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hickory, NC
Posts: 1,522
Post

Looks good! To buy or build? I thought that question had been answered!
Tony
TBSTANGS is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2006, 05:34 AM   #28 (permalink)
FFCobra Craftsman
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,315
Post

Mustang man -- any chance you could trace an outline of that safety loop and FAX it over? or take a measurement or two? Looks like something I can make in the shop easy enough.

-SB
SportyBry is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2006, 12:25 PM   #29 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
convincor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor Connecticut
Posts: 5,887
Post

SB, this is the link to the Total Control Technical Data Sheet.
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/...DSL_DS_WEB.pdf
__________________
MarkIII,FFR1003975RD, IRS,3.27's,pin drive,FE,toploader.... SOLD!!
68 F100 Shorty, 396cu. FE, C6, 9inch(in progress?)
"A man has got to know his limitations"
http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/
convincor is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2006, 02:34 PM   #30 (permalink)
Blue Oval Scribe
FFCars Major
 
Mustang Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 8,726
Post

SB...

Let me know if Convincor's link is enough for you or if you need a tracing/drawing. Just an FYI, I had a friend with a brake bend the bracket from the 90-degree as TCP/Alston sells it, to a 45-degree as in my photos above to match the angle of the frame tube...

Mark
__________________
FFR5310RD
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer

2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit

2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
Mustang Man is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 05:14 PM.




The Tire Rack

Intercity Lines

Ford Cobra Engines

Team 3 Wheels:

Midwest Classic Insurance:

FACTORY FIVE ROADSTERS:

ROADSTERS
· Roadster Forum
· 4.6L Roadsters
· Big Block Roadsters
· Non-Ford Powered Roadsters

FACTORY FIVE COUPE/SPYDER:

TYPE 65 COUPES
SPYDER GT

FACTORY FIVE GTM:

GTM SUPERCAR
· GTM Forum
· GTM Classifieds
· GTM FAQ

FACTORY FIVE '33 HOT ROD:

· '33 Hot Rod Forum
· Hot Rod Classifieds

FACTORY FIVE COMPETITION:

· Challenge Cars
· Road Racing
· Autocross / Pro Solo
· Drag Racing

GENERAL FACTORY FIVE DISCUSSIONS:

· Free Photo Hosting
· Tires / Wheels
· Tops & Tonneaus
· Upholstery
· Gallery
· Audio / Electronics
· Car Care
· Insurance / Registration
· Brakes / Suspension
· Ford Big Block Tech
· Ford Small Block Tech
· Forced Induction / NOS
· Fuel Injection Tech

EVENTS:

· National Events
· Southwest
· Northwest
· NorCal
· SoCal
· Southcentral
· Midwest
· Southeast
· Northeast
· Canada

OFF TOPIC:

· Off Topic Discussions
· Other Car Discussions
· Smyth Performance G3F
· Automotive Photography Discussions

CLASSIFIEDS:

· Cobras and Replicas For Sale / Wanted
· Parts For Sale / Wanted
· Donor Cars For Sale / Wanted
· Other Vehicles For Sale / Wanted

NEWS / HELP:

· FFCars.com News
· Forum Help / Test

 


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.5.1
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.


 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.