I thought I would share a pre-powdercoat picture of my throttle pedal. It still needs some final triming and touch up. Thanks to Fifity-Two for the awesome idea!
Location: Blackberry Township, IL (west of Geneva)
Posts: 1,573
Here's mine on a Russ Thompson lever and mount. Footpad made from some scrap 1 1/8" stock I had laying around. After powdercoating, you may want to add some 3M non-skid tape.
__________________
Later,
Chris
Mk3.1 #7074
Picked-up at FFR - 10/10/09
First start and go-kart - 9/19/12
"As smoke is blown away; so blow them away." Psalm 68:2
All of these look great! Thanks for sharing in the Originality sub-forum
__________________
Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, dual quads, T-5, IRS, Trigo pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards http://www.bills289fia.com
Here's mine on a Russ Thompson lever and mount. Footpad made from some scrap 1 1/8" stock I had laying around. After powdercoating, you may want to add some 3M non-skid tape.
Sorry for the thread highjack, but CCRsAC, what did you use to bend your panel over the chassis tube, the bends look great and the metal isnt all beat up!
Looks real nice. Which pedals are those and can you show me how they attach from the rear? I ordered a set a while ago, forget which ones they are. They looked cheap, not like yours, I ended up not using them and throwing them in the parts box.
Location: Blackberry Township, IL (west of Geneva)
Posts: 1,573
Akpingel - I rolled the aluminum flashing (.025 from the local hardware store) over a shipping tube that a poster came in - the tube was about 4" in diameter, so it made a good form for matching the main chassis tube. I added some 3M strip caulk to seal it against the chassis tube and the bottom of the footbox wall before riveting it all together. It really added to the rigidity of that panel, too!
Patpur - I used the AC pedals from Finishline. They came rough cast and not machined on the back tab. I painted the fronts, then ran them over a belt sander to take the black Rustoleum off of the flat surfaces, then added a slot and a cross-drilled hole in the tabs on the back. The donor pedal arms were modified by cutting off the pads at the end, welding on a vertical rib, then welding on a small tab for springs. The clutch and brake pedal now pivot with my feet as pressure is applied and spring back to position when not being used.
Here's the best picture I have of the finished pedal installation - note that I've changed the throttle pedal stop, too, in the second picture which shows the '65 Mustang hood bumper that I used as a stop (cost all of $1.65 for the part):
__________________
Later,
Chris
Mk3.1 #7074
Picked-up at FFR - 10/10/09
First start and go-kart - 9/19/12
"As smoke is blown away; so blow them away." Psalm 68:2
I wanted to see how they were mounted. I think the ones I got came from Cobra Restorers and they are nothing like the Finishline. That looks like a good winter project.
I might suggest that before you set your throttle pedal stop permanently, that you try some heel-toe moves, while sitting in the seat. I found that my throttle pedal position was set to high, so when I had my foot holding the brake pedal down fully, I couldn't reach the throttle pedal.
This made for starting off on a steeper incline.. hmmm.. lets say very interesting..
You may also be able to adjust the brake pedal, if you have the adjustable rod, to help in getting the pedal heights set. Easier now, then when the foot-box is buttoned up.
A quick safety note regardless which pedal type used:
1) Make sure the pedal cable attachment point is in alignment with the firewall cable attachment point at middle throttle.
We had to make an emergency road side repair to a fellow Roadster owners cable.
It really sucks when on a Cobra Cruz one of the Cobra's frays a cable and it starts to stick the throttle.
Kinda hard but not impossible to temp repair on side of road.
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