Potential Donor Cars

[dukegrad98]

Originally Posted by Midnight Flyer

I guess my question is more, what are the frame/mechanical differences between the two? I think the engine from a MKV can fit into a MKIV, in which case the newer engine should be able to fit.

Once you remove all the sheet metal, is the MKV that much bigger then the MKIV that you could not use it as a donor? I am just thinking that in a few years the number of available donors will be significantly reduced, If the dimensions are not too far off, then MKV's might be an additional source of donor cars.

I think the issue is found in the kit cut-lines, and the OEM plate areas where Mark is bolting the G3F subframes to the Jetta donor chassis. The MKV chassis is new, which is to say probably all different. If those OEM bolt plates are not in the exact same location, then it isn't going to go together for you.

The MKV may be a great donor platform, but probably requires a G3F MKII re-design on the subframes to work. Perhaps a few years in the future, as those donors become more available and less expensive. As you say, the MKV motor may fit in the existing kit, but the main unibody/frame portion of the car is likely the problem. The FFR Roadster was originally built around the 87-93 Mustang, and by its MKIII iteration had been broadened to accept 87-04 Mustangs. It may be inevitable, but I think considering the MKV Jetta is getting way ahead of ourselves before the prototype mule based on the MKIV is even complete!

Cheers, John

[dukegrad98]

Posted over on Facebook, sharing it here -- an excellent donor candidate!
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/ctd/1930622961.html

Cheers, John

[ixlr8]

Originally Posted by dukegrad98

Posted over on Facebook, sharing it here -- an excellent donor candidate!
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/ctd/1930622961.html

Cheers, John

Looks to be a perfect donor.. but will need a timing belt job done soon I suspect based on the mileage. I believe for that year TB's are a 60K mile change out, unless updated 100K mile parts are used.

[Midnight Flyer]

Had an interesting discussion with my son on the weekend. He mentioned that he thought my car was already a MKIV and not the MKV that I thought it was. The reason I thought my car was a MKV was because it was a 2006 and the MKIV's were supposed to end in 2005.

Well it appears that depending on where you live the MKIV's were sold right up to the end of 2005 as 2006 models which is what I got.

If anyone is wondering how to tell the difference, the VIN includes a 1J about half way through. The MKV is 1K.

So I have my donor and I bought it new, so I just have to worry about the cost of the kit. Looks good so far.

[4229GL]

Originally Posted by Midnight Flyer

I guess my question is more, what are the frame/mechanical differences between the two? I think the engine from a MKV can fit into a MKIV, in which case the newer engine should be able to fit.

Once you remove all the sheet metal, is the MKV that much bigger then the MKIV that you could not use it as a donor? I am just thinking that in a few years the number of available donors will be significantly reduced, If the dimensions are not too far off, then MKV's might be an additional source of donor cars.

the engine space is one of a VERY few differences. you can definitely fit a newer engine in an older car - hodrodders do that sort of thing all the time. There are SO many differences though its like asking "why not use a honda civic for this kit?" Here's another one for you to figure out. In 2003 or so just about all MK4s were converted from drive by cable to drive by wire. That's a slight difference that needs to be accounted for. MK5s are STEER by cable. MK5s have wider dashes than MK5s. MK5s have different doors, so the kit's engine cradle wont bolt up. MK5s have different chassis entirely. The front fiberglass nose wont fit. Its a different car.

I don't mean to be stubborn about this. MK4 4 doors are effectively the same thing under their skin - jetta or golf. MK5's only share emblems with the MK4, and even those are different! The next generation kit, should there be one, could be made from ANY platform - not necessarily VW. The 4th is great because it is most diverse. there are 2.0s, 12v VR6, 24v VR6, 1.8t, 1.9TDi. that's FIVE engines in ONE platform offering a variety of transmissions for each. The 4th generation VW is the perfect candidate. They are cheap, easily modified, and there are millions of them out there - far more than could ever be used up by the niche component car market. Look at the FFR cobra. Have you noticed a dramatic shortage of 5.0 mustangs? I dont know this as a fact, but I bet there are more jetta's than mustangs on the road. All I'm getting at is this is a needless concern.

I hope that answers your question, without sounding like a jerk

~Willis.

[4229GL]

...and i just realized that was an old post and there were two pages to this thread. my apologies for the unnecessary post. I suppose I'll leave it up as points to ponder for concerned citizens. congrats on the MK4, Midnight!

[BobTheBuilder]

I made a lengthy post a week or so ago about buying salvage at auction but put it under the main thread as I didin't have my settings to show there were some other threads here.

Anyway, you can read it there and it is subtitled auctions and is about Copart. I am not ready to buy a donor yet but decided I wanted to learn the process and if I could find a "steal" I'd buy a drivable car now. I spotted a hail damage 2000 TDI with 208K miles in Birmingham AL and figured the chances that most things on it worked was reasonable and decided to bid. However, the hail damage was so light I could not see any of it in any of the 6 photos. It auctioned yesterday and went for $1,750. With additional fees that would be about $2,100 to $2,200 so it is likely to have been a good buy.

If I go to any live auctions (not just on line) I'll report back on looking at cars. My understanding is you can start and run them (if they are in running condition) prior to the auction. The other biggie is being able to look for frame damage to see if they would need any straightening.

[dukegrad98]

Good points, BTB. Everyone needs to do his own homework. I am hardly alone in having very negative experiences with Copart. My post to that effect is also in the main thread.

Cheers, John

[BobTheBuilder]

John,

I take no offense at your postings and if your experience was not a good one you should post it right along here.

There are some pitfalls as well as frustrations in considering the auction route. One is if you are bidding on one that is not a final auction (seller can decide he didn't get enough) but they designate which ones are final so you can choose to only bid on ones without a minimum. Another issue to be careful of is airbags related to salvage title. I know we don't plan to use them but if they were popped and the car has a salvage title, some states will require documentation that that they have been replaced before issuing a registration.

[BobTheBuilder]

I looked for several months for a daily driver that could later on be a donor but gave up as I couldn't justify spending that much money on a car I planned to cut up. But I looked at one today that would strictly be a donor and would like some input on what's the most I should consider spending as I know many of you have been looking for a while.

It is a 03 Jetta and it is "rough". The owner says it broke a timing belt (when his brother was driving it) and because the body and interior is rough, it's not worth repairing. The body has general bumps (nothing major that would have the unibody out of alignment) but the drivers side was scraped from the drivers door back so it would need a door (or repair) for the Smyth car. I am Louisiana so it would not have the general corrosion some 8 year old cars from the North would have. I spent some time on the TDI forum and learned that a broken belt means redoing the head and it could have caused a bent rod but not likely and I can't find out until the head would be off. Other bad thing (to me) is it is an automatic though I have seen a few posts where some consider it desirable for a daily driver.
The engine damage and rough body might give me an opportunity to perhaps get a donor cheap (ebay door for $150 is probably less than repairing the bent one) since most of what is needed is intact and I would not be paying for a nice car I am going to canabalize. And I probably would have wanted to rebuild the engine in one anyway and I wouldn't be paying for a running engine.

What else could I look for/check on a dead car sitting in the driveway? What would it be worth with piston/rod damage vs if they are OK?

Any input is appreciated.

[soareyes]

A 2003 will have the troublesome 4 speed automatic transmission. If it is the original transmission, I wouldn't take the risk since you can't drive it to see if it works. A remanufactured unit from VW is $4500 plus installation. If it has been replaced relatively recently then it should be ok. From what I've read, this auto trans tends to go bad around 100,000 miles if the tranny fluid hasn't been replaced regularly, and VW considers it a lifetime fill so few owners have it done. You can do a manual trans. swap (well documented on tdiclub.com) but you have to find one and then there are niggling electric problems you have to sort through.

Stan

edit - If you want to do the auto to manual swap, the donor manual transmission has to be from another TDI for the gear ratios to be correct.

[KC Wildcat]

Have had a lot going on personally, I hate to pass this up. If someone wants to get into a donor now...this sounds like an awesome car, already has some nice mods.

2001 Jetta TDI Auto 40mpg's!

[Bill Shaw]

Albany area - $2800! Tree fell on it, looks like a perfect donor.

2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI