33 LS1/T56 Build - Page 2 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
'33 Hot Rod Forum sponsored by classic E/T Wheels · Call (510) 895-8880
FFCars.com Forums Advertisers Build Sites FFR FAQ Gallery
Go Back   FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum > Factory Five Racing '33 Hot Rod > Factory Five '33 Hot Rod Forum Sponsored by E/T Wheels
Register Garage iTrader FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read




Thanks Tree4Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 03-17-2017, 08:23 PM   #31 (permalink)
FFCobra Master Craftsman
FFCars Captain
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Bonners Ferry, Idaho
Posts: 4,440
Unless something has changed with the parts supplied by FFR, the inner tie rods usually require shortening about 1/2" to be able to get a proper alignment.
Tim Whittaker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-20-2017, 08:16 PM   #32 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker View Post
Unless something has changed with the parts supplied by FFR, the inner tie rods usually require shortening about 1/2" to be able to get a proper alignment.
Thanks, ill be sure to check the alignment before I take the front suspension apart to powder coat before final assembly.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-25-2017, 08:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2017, 05:55 AM   #34 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
Loving your videos, keep them coming! Thinking of pulling the trigger on an HR and would go with an LS3, so following intently.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oldcabin is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-26-2017, 01:41 PM   #35 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
daveS53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 349
Hopefully the instructions mentioned the need for o-rings on the A/C tubes. The o-rings could uses a little lube. I used same oil that's in the compressor.
daveS53 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2017, 04:15 AM   #36 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-04-2017, 04:16 AM   #37 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53 View Post
Hopefully the instructions mentioned the need for o-rings on the A/C tubes. The o-rings could uses a little lube. I used same oil that's in the compressor.
Ah thanks, I may have forgot that part in the video but yes the tubes definitely need Orings haha.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2017, 02:17 PM   #38 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 39
is there any kind of provision for a sump or baffling inside the tank for the fuel pickup? I have seen where fuel slosh issues can be a real pain when retrofitting an in tank pump/pickup once the fuel level starts to get lower in the tank.
sread is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2017, 08:01 AM   #39 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by sread View Post
is there any kind of provision for a sump or baffling inside the tank for the fuel pickup? I have seen where fuel slosh issues can be a real pain when retrofitting an in tank pump/pickup once the fuel level starts to get lower in the tank.
Yes, there is baffling around the pickup for the pump.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-06-2017, 03:00 PM   #40 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
j33ptj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 314
Are you not worried about the fuel line running that close to the exhausts?
j33ptj is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-09-2017, 05:20 AM   #41 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by j33ptj View Post
Are you not worried about the fuel line running that close to the exhausts?
The only place where the fuel line will run close to the exhaust is where it is the metal tube. Its not that close and I do plan to run some heat shielding around the metal tube.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-10-2017, 07:22 PM   #42 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-17-2017, 02:19 AM   #43 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2017, 01:00 AM   #44 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2017, 01:01 PM   #45 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
daveS53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 349
A little research on this forum would have been wise. You can get reasonably priced steel mounts for the Sanden compressor from Alan Grove. They are beautifully TIG welded. That's what I'm using. Belt alignment is critical. A little bit off and you'll be tossing the belt.

LS

I'll suspect that the low mount alternator that works is off the Cadillac CTS, but the mount would need to be spaced forward, for harmonic balancers other than the Corvette or CTS. It's often recommended to switch to the Corvette balancer, but that also affects the water pump. Here's a link that lists all the parts in the CTS drive kit. The pulleys are 3/4" closer to the motor, compared to a Camaro and 1-1/2" closer than a truck motor's pulley's.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...99070/10002/-1


I've never read about other builders having to alter the frame to mount accessories. Curved tubes may solve the clearance issue, but the don't have the strength of a straight tube, so the frame has now been weakened. The frame is a truss design that depends on the straight tubes to withstand compression or tension forces. Ideally, you would avoid the interference with two straight tubes that maintain the truss. Notice how the tube ends each have one common contact point.

See post #65.
Cardifkid's 33 build #706

I resorted to a high mount alternator on my '37, but the FFR '33 probably doesn't have enough hood height. I made this aluminum mount myself. I could have made it a least an inch lower.


Last edited by daveS53; 04-26-2017 at 04:41 PM..
daveS53 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-26-2017, 08:43 PM   #46 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 9
Loving the videos. Keep em coming
Wakeboardnsd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-27-2017, 10:25 PM   #47 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53 View Post
A little research on this forum would have been wise. You can get reasonably priced steel mounts for the Sanden compressor from Alan Grove. They are beautifully TIG welded. That's what I'm using. Belt alignment is critical. A little bit off and you'll be tossing the belt.

LS

I'll suspect that the low mount alternator that works is off the Cadillac CTS, but the mount would need to be spaced forward, for harmonic balancers other than the Corvette or CTS. It's often recommended to switch to the Corvette balancer, but that also affects the water pump. Here's a link that lists all the parts in the CTS drive kit. The pulleys are 3/4" closer to the motor, compared to a Camaro and 1-1/2" closer than a truck motor's pulley's.

Chevy 19299070: F-Body Style Accessory Drive System | JEGS


I've never read about other builders having to alter the frame to mount accessories. Curved tubes may solve the clearance issue, but the don't have the strength of a straight tube, so the frame has now been weakened. The frame is a truss design that depends on the straight tubes to withstand compression or tension forces. Ideally, you would avoid the interference with two straight tubes that maintain the truss. Notice how the tube ends each have one common contact point.

See post #65.
Cardifkid's 33 build #706

I resorted to a high mount alternator on my '37, but the FFR '33 probably doesn't have enough hood height. I made this aluminum mount myself. I could have made it a least an inch lower.


From the measurements I took the Alan Grove mount and Sanden 508 would still contact the frame. There are measurements on the Alan Grove site so measure from your crank to the frame and you'll see. I don't think the CTS would work either because it is not the pulley that interferes it is the housing of the alternator. Also I prefer the look of the low mount accesories. Cardifkid's solution is awesome but I lack the machining capabilities he has and also wanted to use a Sanden compressor because that is what Vintage air recommends with the kit and already has the correct fittings. My friend who came up with the solution has a degree in mechanical engineering and has built and raced many cars, so I'm not worried at all running like this.

Last edited by S13; 04-27-2017 at 10:42 PM..
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-27-2017, 10:28 PM   #48 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakeboardnsd View Post
Loving the videos. Keep em coming
Thanks, will do!
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-28-2017, 01:49 PM   #49 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
daveS53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by S13 View Post
From the measurements I took the Alan Grove mount and Sanden 508 would still contact the frame. There are measurements on the Alan Grove site so measure from your crank to the frame and you'll see. I don't think the CTS would work either because it is not the pulley that interferes it is the housing of the alternator. Also I prefer the look of the low mount accesories. Cardifkid's solution is awesome but I lack the machining capabilities he has and also wanted to use a Sanden compressor because that is what Vintage air recommends with the kit and already has the correct fittings. My friend who came up with the solution has a degree in mechanical engineering and has built and raced many cars, so I'm not worried at all running like this.
The CTS alternator only measures 5 inches in diameter. That's likely to be quite a bit smaller than the alternator you're using. The other issue is the Camaro belt position is 3/4" further forward than the Corvette/CTS/GTO and all GM crate LS engines. That means that the entire alternator is moved back by 3/4", not just the belt. Same goes for the AC compressor.

I linked the Alan Grove web site because he offers Sanden compressor mounts that fit any LS motor For $175. I bought mine 3 years ago. It was the first that he made with the Corvette belt spacing. He offered mounts for Camaro or truck spacing years before that.

If your friend is a mechanical engineer like I am, he needs a refresher course. Bent tubes will bend when forces of tension or compression are applied. His solution was totally wrong.

Last edited by daveS53; 04-28-2017 at 06:23 PM..
daveS53 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-28-2017, 09:25 PM   #50 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53 View Post
The CTS alternator only measures 5 inches in diameter. That's likely to be quite a bit smaller than the alternator you're using. The other issue is the Camaro belt position is 3/4" further forward than the Corvette/CTS/GTO and all GM crate LS engines. That means that the entire alternator is moved back by 3/4", not just the belt. Same goes for the AC compressor.

I linked the Alan Grove web site because he offers Sanden compressor mounts that fit any LS motor For $175. I bought mine 3 years ago. It was the first that he made with the Corvette belt spacing. He offered mounts for Camaro or truck spacing years before that.

If your friend is a mechanical engineer like I am, he needs a refresher course. Bent tubes will bend when forces of tension or compression are applied. His solution was totally wrong.

I preferred your comment on the video: "I got my mechanical engineering degree in 1981. The frame mod is stupid."
Could you do me a favour from now on; if your going to comment on the video and on the forum can you just post the same comment? That way I can copy and paste my reply to both. As you can see from the frame modification, I like to take the fast stupid way of getting things done. Unfortunately I'm too stupid to have looked into getting an Alan Grove bracket, would have fit right in:






S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-29-2017, 09:04 PM   #51 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Incase anyone is using this thread in the future for reference, I was being sarcastic. If the measurements on the Alan Grove website are correct(why wouldn't they be?) then that bracket and a Sanden 508 compressor will not fit inside of the frame on a F5R 33 with and LS.

But hey, don't take it from the me, the guy building a F5R 33 with a LS. Take it from the guy who built a car that is kinda similar with a LS, he is an engineer after all!
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2017, 07:26 AM   #52 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Barrel's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Mornington, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 120
Hey S13... I kinda get where you're coming from......daveS53 says that he's "read enough about the FFR'33 on this forum to eliminate it from consideration" and he is quite entitled to say this. He has also posted 313 times on this forum about a car that he doesn't want to own and again his input is appreciated. Readers will weigh it up. Keep posting your videos here, I,m enjoying the "To and Fro" they generate.
Barrel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2017, 02:54 PM   #53 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrel View Post
Hey S13... I kinda get where you're coming from......daveS53 says that he's "read enough about the FFR'33 on this forum to eliminate it from consideration" and he is quite entitled to say this. He has also posted 313 times on this forum about a car that he doesn't want to own and again his input is appreciated. Readers will weigh it up. Keep posting your videos here, I,m enjoying the "To and Fro" they generate.
Thanks! If someone can show me a picture of an Alan Grove bracket with a Sanden 508 on a LS1 in an unmodified Factory Five 33 frame then I will gladly admit I am wrong. The whole point of these videos was to contribute to the type of videos I like to watch as part of my research before starting a project. I want to show people what is needed to build what I imagine will only become a more popular kit/engine combo. Not trying to get people to unnecessarily cut up their frames. The CTS alternator might work, if it does it would be very, very close. I am not going to spend a bunch of money on something that might work and then I still have to figure something out for the AC on the other side. I think the best solution I have seen for the AC is the one Cardifkid built. Maybe he should consider selling that as a kit. I would rather pay $500 for a kit with a bracket like his and whatever compressor he used then cut up the frame but unfortunately that is not an option. At the end of the day I am going to be driving this car on the street every now and then, not taking it to the Baja 1000 so I am not worried about having a bent tube on a 0.070" wall 1" tube frame brace.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2017, 04:51 PM   #54 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
daveS53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 349
All I can say is that I hope your frame mod works out. I would have looked for a better solution. I'm not surprised that most readers don't understand how a truss works, but you don't need to be an engineer to do a google search and get a basic understanding.

Building your own compressor mounting bracket that aligns the pulley parallel to the balancer with the belt properly aligned is probably beyond the skills of most kit car builders. Until yours is tested, I wouldn't assume that it works well. If you really wanted to provide fellow builders with better info, you'd at least post what belt tensioner was used and the the belt length.

I measured my Alan Grove compressor mount and got about 10-3/4" to the outer edge of the pulley. There is a mounting lug that protrudes more, but that could be cut off. I never said that it would work in an FFR '33, but it's certainly worth a try.

I also did a search for "alternator" on this website and found this thread with a number of helpful responses.

LS3 alternator and A/C compressor

It would be easy to overlook the significance of post #7, but it led me to the March website where they offer a drive without power steering for $785 that includes the alternator, Corvette water pump and Sanden style compressor for $785. It does require the Corvette balancer ($130). The response claims that this low mount drive works with no problems, but it still has to be very tight.

March Performance - Chevy LS : Narrow Mount

Last edited by daveS53; 04-30-2017 at 10:12 PM..
daveS53 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2017, 01:37 AM   #55 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
roadracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker View Post
No link to it that I have. do a search on firewall trimming or using my name, if I remember the post was titled " I wish I had found this sooner" or something to that effect.
Found it here: /forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/268114-i-found-too-late.html

(sorry can't post real link - too few posts over here, lol)
roadracer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 02:56 PM   #56 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
Found it here: /forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/268114-i-found-too-late.html

(sorry can't post real link - too few posts over here, lol)
Awesome, thanks! Ill be sure to do that.


Also here is the new video.
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2017, 11:29 PM   #57 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
roadracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 9
Er, WHAT?!?

Where did you learn about having to swap brakes side-to-side? I didn't see anything in manual about that, and in one manual pic those old mounts you cut off are still on the installed rear.

Thanks for pointing this out.. I had no idea. I must have missed something somewhere. Don't remember hearing about this in build threads either..
roadracer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-08-2017, 04:46 AM   #58 (permalink)
S13
Member
 
S13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
Er, WHAT?!?

Where did you learn about having to swap brakes side-to-side? I didn't see anything in manual about that, and in one manual pic those old mounts you cut off are still on the installed rear.

Thanks for pointing this out.. I had no idea. I must have missed something somewhere. Don't remember hearing about this in build threads either..
You do not have to do it this way. It just makes it a bit cleaner and because i had to order brake lines anyways, I thought why not?
S13 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-09-2017, 01:22 AM   #59 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
roadracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 9
Thanks, I haven't put much thought yet into brake lines, but I assumed there would be one flex line to rear end (preferably as low as possible on chassis), then t junction and hard line attached along the rear to the calipers.
roadracer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-09-2017, 01:38 PM   #60 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
daveS53's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
Thanks, I haven't put much thought yet into brake lines, but I assumed there would be one flex line to rear end (preferably as low as possible on chassis), then t junction and hard line attached along the rear to the calipers.
That is sometimes the case. The disadvantage to having a single flex hose in the center and hard lines running to the calipers, is the calipers can't be removed without disconnecting the hard lines and later bleeding the system. It also requires clamping the lines along the length of the axle housing and a tricky bend at the caliper.

I would always use a flex line at each caliper.
daveS53 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


» Premium Vendor Showcase
» Buyer's Resource
» Recent Discussions
Finally Pulled the...
Yesterday 10:22 PM
Last post by JoeE
Today 06:01 PM
13 Replies, 259 Views
Fitech efi fuel question
Today 04:54 PM
Last post by narve00
Today 05:57 PM
2 Replies, 33 Views
Motivation for New/Old...
Yesterday 04:47 PM
by P Wyman
Last post by Avalanche325
Today 05:42 PM
8 Replies, 330 Views
Another AEM Infinity ECU... ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
09-16-2015 07:01 PM
Last post by TMScrogins
Today 05:37 PM
278 Replies, 18,204 Views
Tim Whittaker 33 Hot Rod... ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
11-06-2011 02:59 AM
Last post by KGB911
Today 05:28 PM
351 Replies, 68,236 Views
Dual Quad Carb troubles...
05-21-2017 10:47 AM
by Redfish
Last post by CraigS
Today 05:06 PM
21 Replies, 535 Views
1970 Mustang Fastback...
11-19-2016 04:28 AM
by Alan_C
Last post by Alan_C
Today 04:42 PM
20 Replies, 518 Views
looking for a way to...
05-23-2017 04:56 PM
Last post by Derald Rice
Today 04:41 PM
9 Replies, 197 Views
Keychain remote for...
Today 12:56 AM
by mjpesky
Last post by AdamC
Today 04:31 PM
4 Replies, 120 Views
GTM Gen1, #105 Fires Up! ( 1 2 3 4 5 ... Last Page)
12-14-2012 05:42 PM
Last post by 00SS_M6LS1
Today 04:18 PM
597 Replies, 46,328 Views
2015 IRS aluminum housing
Yesterday 02:16 AM
Last post by Jim1855
Today 04:01 PM
1 Replies, 142 Views
Steel Body 33s
05-23-2017 09:38 PM
Last post by KGB911
Today 03:35 PM
9 Replies, 310 Views
LS6 Help
Today 12:22 PM
by VD2021
Last post by ARROWSTEEL
Today 03:12 PM
3 Replies, 48 Views
Interior Rear View Mirror
Yesterday 10:20 AM
Last post by BrentM
Today 02:45 PM
3 Replies, 171 Views
DaveT's Gen III Coupe...
Today 04:41 AM
by taved
Last post by taved
Today 02:43 PM
3 Replies, 112 Views
Wheel Well Vents?
05-06-2017 05:44 PM
Last post by Real time recon
Today 02:36 PM
8 Replies, 665 Views
Wiring pep talk
Yesterday 04:15 AM
Last post by cChrisM
Today 01:50 PM
10 Replies, 254 Views
Oil Pressure sending...
Yesterday 12:32 AM
Last post by toy4me
Today 01:20 PM
8 Replies, 237 Views
FFR#48 Race Report -...
Today 10:38 AM
Last post by carlewms
Today 01:07 PM
1 Replies, 64 Views
2015 IRS report
05-21-2017 12:11 PM
by CraigS
Last post by CraigS
Today 12:28 PM
6 Replies, 262 Views
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:15 PM.




Intercity Lines

Ford Cobra Engines

Team 3 Wheels:

Midwest Classic Insurance:

FACTORY FIVE ROADSTERS:

ROADSTERS
· Roadster Forum
· 4.6L Roadsters
· Big Block Roadsters
· Non-Ford Powered Roadsters

FACTORY FIVE COUPE/SPYDER:

TYPE 65 COUPES
SPYDER GT

FACTORY FIVE GTM:

GTM SUPERCAR
· GTM Forum
· GTM Classifieds
· GTM FAQ

FACTORY FIVE '33 HOT ROD:

· '33 Hot Rod Forum
· Hot Rod Classifieds

FACTORY FIVE COMPETITION:

· Challenge Cars
· Road Racing
· Autocross / Pro Solo
· Drag Racing

GENERAL FACTORY FIVE DISCUSSIONS:

· Free Photo Hosting
· Tires / Wheels
· Tops & Tonneaus
· Upholstery
· Gallery
· Audio / Electronics
· Car Care
· Insurance / Registration
· Brakes / Suspension
· Ford Big Block Tech
· Ford Small Block Tech
· Forced Induction / NOS
· Fuel Injection Tech

EVENTS:

· National Events
· Southwest
· Northwest
· NorCal
· SoCal
· Southcentral
· Midwest
· Southeast
· Northeast
· Canada

OFF TOPIC:

· Off Topic Discussions
· Other Car Discussions
· Smyth Performance G3F
· Automotive Photography Discussions

CLASSIFIEDS:

· Cobras and Replicas For Sale / Wanted
· Parts For Sale / Wanted
· Donor Cars For Sale / Wanted
· Other Vehicles For Sale / Wanted

NEWS / HELP:

· FFCars.com News
· Forum Help / Test

 


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.