Had to take about 3/8" off the length of the double D shaft that went between the column and firewall. The shafts needed to be worked with a piece of 60 grit paper so they would slide into the bearings.
Had to take about 3/8" off the length of the double D shaft that went between the column and firewall. The shafts needed to be worked with a piece of 60 grit paper so they would slide into the bearings.
Sounds about right. If you haven't already, you might really (and I mean really) want to consider the power steering.
Sounds about right. If you haven't already, you might really (and I mean really) want to consider the power steering.
After my shakedown drive around the block (no power steering) I got on the phone to ffr and ordered the power steering kit. At 2 or 3 miles an hour you better have superman upper body strength to drive it. I don't think even superman could curb park the car.
I'm hearing all the great and heart felt advice ( Boyd Tank, fan shroud, and power steering). Just trying to work my way through the hiccups of assembling this many parts from different sources. Will step up to these improvements as needed and budget permits. Thanks for all the help, keep me on the right path.
A few more pieces and the engine will be complete. Ordered the driver side alternator mount from Breeze Automotive.
Routed the clutch cable between header pipes of cylinders five and six, then through the center of the motor mount. The mounting clip for the bottom end was not supplied in my kit. I used a 1/16" thick front end shim, worked great.
As you can see no room in my budget for the high dollar recommended battery. Went with a 70 series from NAPA with side connections. Had trouble getting the nuts on the "J" bolts from the top. Bent a little more "J" into the "J" bolts so they would engage the hold down better. Put them in with the threaded end down. Did shorten the "J" bolts some on the threaded end. Also here is a picture of the throttle mount(Jegs) and throttle cable(Lokar) I plan to use along with the supplied pedal.
Progress on the 33 is being slowed, as I have had to switch to my carpenter cap for a few weeks. "This Old House" needs some repairs.
See post 88 for modification necessary to get battery in and out with rear bulkhead in place.
Last edited by oldfartracing; 12-05-2012 at 09:20 AM..
Reason: Added Info
I had my battery installed there to start. I ended up moving mine to the trunk. Did yours slide in from side ok? I have an optima battery and it fit dropped in from top with fuel tank missing but there is no way it was coming out the side with diagonal bars back there.
It took some twisting, but did go in from side with the provided tank in place. Once all the sheet metal is in ?? Be a shame to have to take the car apart to get the battery out. Before I permanently mount the rear panel, will attempt to remove it from under the car.
That is what I did and said forget it. I purchased a billet battery mount for my optima and located it in upper shelf in trunk on passenger side. Much easier to service now.
Lokar cable and Jegs throttle mount, in place. Locating the throttle pedal involves cutting clearance in the transmission tunnel, finding a suitable seat mounting point and still haven't decided where to mount the pedal. Took the day off from playing "This Old House", great to be back in the garage.
On a whim I stopped by the South Carolina Highway Dept yesterday while out running some errands. Within 15 minutes the '33 was titled. They needed the certificate of origin, receipt,and SC drivers license. Paid sales tax and titling fee.
On a whim I stopped by the South Carolina Highway Dept yesterday while out running some errands. Within 15 minutes the '33 was titled. They needed the certificate of origin, receipt,and SC drivers license. Paid sales tax and titling fee.
I think AL might be almost as easy. I'll let you know when I have some extra bucks sitting here, I will have to trailer it to the courthouse so they can verify the stamped "VIN".
Congrats, that's how it should be everywhere in a free country!
Seats in and bolted down. For the slide adjusters to work properly the seats are mounted more to the front of the car, than in the manual. Had to add 2" flat stock from center to outside frame rail for the front bolts.
Last edited by oldfartracing; 11-30-2012 at 09:24 AM..
Reason: Add photo
Everything came back apart so I could spray on the first coat of Lizardskin. Should be warm enough today to do a second coat. All aluminum panels and the transmission tunnel are getting sprayed on the bottom side ( side facing away from cabin and trunk area).
Added a 1 1/2" strip of aluminum to the inside edge of both floor pans. This should make a better, wider seal between transmission tunnel and floor pan near the front. Second coat of Lizardskin went on with no hitches.
One inch was cut along the edge of the opening in the rear bulkhead to allow placing the battery in the factory recommended location. It was not possible to remove the battery from the bottom like I had hoped. Taped the vent holes on the battery to prevent any acid leaking out. The mocked up battery made thing a lot easier.
bapa10 No on mine it seems there is a difference in the angle of the foot box and the angle of the tunnel. The tunnel is touching good on all the vertical areas and most of the horizontal areas. At the very back, the tunnel is held high because it is not fitting over the drive shaft tunnel properly. I was thinking of using some foam rubber weather strip 1 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick all around to seal everything up. But not sure how it will stand up to the heat up front by the header pipe. I want the tunnel to be removable for maintenance. How does yours compare to mine? Hope the pictures will help.
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1964 Ford Falcon Futura
1980 Ford Mustang Hatchback
Linear Mode
