I'm having trouble uploading pics, but really don't have a good clear photo. I picked a spot near the center of the tank and brazed on a 1/4" NPT steel bung. A straight fitting 5/16" hose to 1/4" NPT to connect it to the filter provided with the car. Keep in mind that I'll be using a carburetor and don't need a return line. I ordered the pieces from Speedway Motors, 6176702 for the bung, 91611048 for the straight fitting, also available is a 90* fitting 5/16 hose to1/4" NPT part #91611054.
Anyone else having trouble uploading pics?
Jim
Pic problem fixed ?
Last edited by oldfartracing; 06-24-2012 at 03:37 PM..
Reason: Add Pics
I, too, shortened the aluminum filler neck as you did. Made the cut in the same place.
As a caution, when you fill the tank with it like that, one can't just shove the pump handle in the hole, as it will potentially damage the rubber El. It's not so much a problem for me, but if anyone else is going to fill the tank, make sure you tell them about it.
As an afterthought, it might have been possible to have just cut off about 1/2 lower portion of the aluminum filler neck along the "diameter" facing the direction toward the tank. Then it won't blind part of the hose for venting and surge.
Best regards,
__________________
Tom #007 Street Rod; #2911SP Challenge Racer (Sold, 06/2010) V.I.R.U.S. (Very Immature Racers of the United States)
Thanks Tom for the heads up on the filling process. I may still have to relocate the filler cap to the body surface once the top is in place. This is how I located the opening for the bottom door hinge. I couldn't find anything on it in my manual. Its possible that I missed it, old age and poor eyesight.
If I read the manual right, you first mark the door openings on the door, with out the body in place, cut these out and then "back mark" them from the inside of the door to the body.
But how would you know that they have mounted correctly unless you can fit them first???
If I read the manual right, you first mark the door openings on the door, with out the body in place, cut these out and then "back mark" them from the inside of the door to the body.
But how would you know that they have mounted correctly unless you can fit them first???
Hope I will remember this trick!!
Guys:
Did you watch the Video? Don't just read the manual. P.S. I like your way too!
Eric, I have now, great job with the video! It seems I may have reinvented the wheel on the location of the bottom hinge. Your method of locating the latch and striker sure takes the mystery out of that step. Thanks for sharing these videos with us.
I ran into this little problem this am. To quote Johnny Cash, "When we went to put in the bolts all the holes where gone". Sent pics to tech, waiting to hear back. In my opinion I need a mounting bracket to go with the yellow latch or the clear latch to go with this bracket. The holes in this bracket line up with the template for the clear latch.
I ran into this little problem this am. To quote Johnny Cash, "When we went to put in the bolts all the holes where gone". Sent pics to tech, waiting to hear back. In my opinion I need a mounting bracket to go with the yellow latch or the clear latch to go with this bracket. The holes in this bracket line up with the template for the clear latch.
Interesting. I have the "yellow" latch and my bracket lined up pretty well. I think they're just going to tell you to clearance the plate holes to match the latch.
Still waiting for the new latches, maybe tomorrow. Kinda' puts door mounting on hold, don't want to drill any more holes in the doors until I have them in hand. Locating the cutouts on the rear of the door seemed easier on the passenger side. Two tries and it seems close. If this thing had four doors I may have become a pro! Now where did I put that deck lid.
Received new latches on Tuesday, took seven days to get from Mass to SC. Definitely not interchangeable, note the difference in the arm where the cables attach. Does this look correct?
Last edited by oldfartracing; 07-19-2012 at 09:36 AM..
Set the top on to determine the mounting points for the roadster windshield. Would like to have the option to change from coupe to roadster. Any precautions on this process? I've aligned the top according to the manual.
Check out all the build topics, especially Rumbles. He's got a ton of great tips and I think it would be faster for you to get answers. It seems you're overlapping a bit here as he's already answered a lot of questions you're asking. I basically went into his build thread and copied and pasted his best tips into a word doc and then printed them out and inserted into my manual. Just a thought.
You might want to get one of Mike Everson's fan shrouds before you go any further. It is a whole lot easier to install now than after you put grill/radiator in. Food for thought
I was unable to install the grille to the chassis, sent pics to Tech, this is the response.
"I talked to Jesper, and he told me a few things about this. By changing the angle of the grill, that will affect how the hood hinge mount contacts the grill mount. You can also trim the top mount, as it is only a alternative headlight mounting position if you are running full fenders. This should do the trick for you."
Modified the bracket as outlined by yellow tape. Was able to get all four bolts into the grille. The grille is pushed all the way forward leaving no movement for adjustment.
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