I am helping a friend with a 33 Hotrod build with a LS1 engine and would like some help from you, he is not computer savy could you contact him his phone #321-636-2191 and e-mail is Kfrederick37@cfl.rr.com
I am helping a friend with a 33 Hotrod build with a LS1 engine and would like some help from you, he is not computer savy could you contact him his phone #321-636-2191 and e-mail is Kfrederick37@cfl.rr.com
well guys i made my first attempt in hanging the doors I started with the passenger side. gaps are way off body lines are not straight and the manual is terrible at showing how to accomplish perfection on this hahaha. any advice or comments would be appreciated.
Wait a minute, are you sayin' the doors should fit!!??
There are many threads on this forum with tons of information on the getting the doors to fit, just do a little searching (that's where we got most of our tips). I never did write up everything we did on our '33, but he is a link to what we did record: 0726 Doors - EEPod '33 Hot Rod Build Site
Take your time and be a patient as you do it, each car might require slightly different tweaks.
would have it been too hard for ffr to place the gas fill on the tank about an inch lower? frustrating i cant imagine fuel being able to travel up the filler neck into the tank!
well i am at the stage of " do i buy the boyd tank" or risk all the problems of leaking from the sending unit and the filler neck issues. i already made it a gravity feed..
Just out of curiosity how bad are the issues everyone is having with the slow fill and the leaks?
The doors just take time, that's all. I've spent more time there than any other part of the car. Just wait till you're moving that striker around to get them to open and shut right. Overall, just remember, it will work. It just takes a lot of little adjustments so be patient. If you get stuck, just work on another part and come back to it with a clear head. And watch the videos!
On a side note... I broke down and bought a boyd tank. I am having Mr. boyd work with me to get it to fit my application as I don't want to change my fuel pump and current set up! and who knows maybe he will take the measurements and gravity set up and offer that as an option also! I made a lay out for him to see where I want the an-8 bung welded in and the specs to fit my application.
On a side note... I broke down and bought a boyd tank. I am having Mr. boyd work with me to get it to fit my application as I don't want to change my fuel pump and current set up! and who knows maybe he will take the measurements and gravity set up and offer that as an option also! I made a lay out for him to see where I want the an-8 bung welded in and the specs to fit my application.
Good call. I just didn't have confidence in the FF tank.
hey guys i just wanted to pick your brains a little, For the rear of the hard top i am going to use spring loaded hook latches. Jeep style, My question is what are you using to attach the rear fiberglass section that goes behind the seats? i am leaning towards a riv nut and some button heads.
I picked a color from the PPG catalog and went to the PPG store and they mixed me some paint and put a transtar label on it and said it is better paint then the PPG. I brought it to the painter and it is no where near the color I want when it is sprayed on the car it is like a bright bright orange.. I went back to the paint shop and they blamed the painter saying he doesnt know what he is doing. now my car is sitting at a paint shop and the painter wants me to take it home he doesnt want to paint it anymore... I brought the paint back to the paint store and said this doesnt even match your swatch... he called the painter and they got into a fight over the phone blaming eachother. I am left with a unpainted car and people mad at me... I just want to be happy with the color.
The color I picked was a burnt orange almost copper and when sprayed on the car it looks like something that belongs on a circus car... super bright orange..
That really does suck, sorry to hear that. Sounds like your better off to find a different painter AND a different supplier. I NEVER paint anything without painting test sample first. No doubt you painter should done this as well, he's not doing you justice by not spraying a test panel to confirm your color selection, escpecially a custom paint job. Never trust the paint chip or the mixer. As far as you painter messing it up, it is possible to some extent to change the color depending on how you spray it, but color is color and whether you spray it, brush it or roll it, it's going to have a similar tone, not be off like you are saying.
Did they offer up the alternative paint because it was "cheaper"? A lot of time inferior paints will need more coats to cover. Also, the clear can change tha appearence of the final color.
As far as what to do now, how much of the car did he paint? How many coats did he spray? Did he clear coat it or is it a single stage? All is not lost, might need to rescuff what has been sprayed and reseal, but should be good to paint over with the correct color. You paint supplier should be able to tint the paint you already have to get the color match you want. That way you don't have to throw out all the paint you already bought (although I'm not sure I would trust him at this point).
he painted the trunk and some of the rear section before i stopped him. They persuaded me to paint the car with the body on. he said taking the body on and off makes it more prone to cracking and chipping. Especially since the body needs to flex to be put back on.
He did offer to throw some black in the paint to tone it down but I am worried black will just make it look brown, I am going back to the paint store today to talk about my 700 $ gallon of paint.
he painted the trunk and some of the rear section before i stopped him. They persuaded me to paint the car with the body on. he said taking the body on and off makes it more prone to cracking and chipping. Especially since the body needs to flex to be put back on.
I've had my body off numerous times, even on and off after it was final painted and no problem. Not saying you have to do it that way, but it's not an excuse. I just think the guy doesn't want to.
What color primer/sealer is on it? If it's white or a very light color, you probably won't see the true color until there's 3-4 or even more coats on it. I'd have him spray a test panel with as many coats as it take to get the tue color. Spraying a half white, half black panel will tell you when you have full coverage.
What does the color when you look at it in the can look like? Is it the color you want?
well i think my build page has been put on hold. I need to update and see where i left off. I am just finishing up the radio and interior. the car is almost done just need to do my finishing touches! I have 180 trouble free miles on the car so far and it seems like a fun ride 525 hp is overkill. seems like the fitment of the hood and trunk are not the best i have some rubbing and paint wearing!!!! pics and updates are on the way!
It's back from paint and that wasn't the best experenence to say the least. It seems like everything I have contracted out on this car has been an issue. I guess the saying stands if you want something done right do it yourself.
It ended up being this weird burnt Orange with heavy pearl coat when the sun hits it right. Sometimes it looks like wet clay and then you move your head and the pearl comes through. I had to explain to the painter I didn't say anything bad about his painting and I just wanted the right color and in the end I am happy with it.
Not happy about the little body issues with the trunk and hood rubbing but overall I would give my build a 6.5 out of ten. The car gets tons of compliments and people are always taking pictures but they don't know the paint flaws and the little bit of orange peel on the dash. Call me picky I guess..
I really like it and for what it's worth, the color looks great. You'll be the only one who notices body fit and finish. Enjoy the hell out of it. If you wouldn't mind, let me know how the speaker arrangement works out for you. I've got mine in the traditional front of the door with a sub in the trunk and it's definitely not optimal. The bass is just gone when you get on the road. I was thinking of putting a speaker between the seats like you did so I'm interested to hear your results. And tweeters by the ears aren't a bad idea but they are the most prominent so you'll probably be backing your treble way off.
Thanks erik, the color is growing on me. The speaker system sounds good, I have 2 12's jl w7 in my truck so i am accustom to a lot of bass. This car is all high and mids but its ok. i have not put the door speakers in yet but i will be running 2 componet sets, so 8 speakers total. 4 6" speakers and 4 tweets. it gets pretty loud.
Very nice, clean looking build. These cars look so cool. We are usually the only people who see or care about minor flaws, they give the car character. Have fun driving it.
__________________
#365
Build site www.33coyote.com
Coyote / TKO 600/3.55/Torsen
Wilwood 6 piston, bike fenders
Boyd's Tank, QA1 shocks & Springs
Speedhut gages
Rag top
"Never let physics or common sense get in the way of a good idea"
among the other problems I have been having (latches, gas cap peeling paint, stolen mirriors...) I brought the car to get dyno tuned this weekend and it only put up 380hp at the wheels... I have an email into the company that I bought the motor from that claimed it was a min of 525 hp. kinda dissapointed in the fact everything i have outsourced on this car has been nothing but lies and shitty work...
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If you wouldn't mind, let me know how the speaker arrangement works out for you. I've got mine in the traditional front of the door with a sub in the trunk and it's definitely not optimal. The bass is just gone when you get on the road. I was thinking of putting a speaker between the seats like you did so I'm interested to hear your results. And tweeters by the ears aren't a bad idea but they are the most prominent so you'll probably be backing your treble way off. 
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