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Old 01-14-2012, 12:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Trunk latch...did I miss something??

After fighting all day to get the trunk latch all back to where it was before I took it apart for paint, I came to the realization that the latch I have is the same as a door latch. It has two lock steps, which makes it impossible for one person to open the trunk without sticking something in the release handle.... Does the latch need modified, or is there an updated latch?

Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The three that I built all had the same latch. I put a small cable under the car right below the latch on the underside of the body. Only easy way to open the trunk. You could use some kind of spring loaded popper to do it as well
mike
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:26 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I asked the same question back in '09....

I will be going with a small pull cable behind the license plate.

Here is an old thread that I started in '09. In the thread there is a mention that FFR started supplying gas struts. I don't know if that ever became fact.

How does the trunk open?

Olli
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I used the pulley to run a cable out the bottom of the trunk. I had this one laying around but Lokar sells a really nice unit that shields the cable on the pulley so the cable doesn't come off.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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latch

Dave, I stopped in to see Ron today. He asked me about the trunk latch. I modified it like a couple others and made it a single catch. Dan (KGB911) told me how to do it. I used a small grinder bit to make it a single catch. I also added a small spring popper to keep lid off latch. I have also heard a couple guys use a chunk of seal around latch to do same thing.
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Old 01-15-2012, 02:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yup, grind off the second catch on the latch and it opens no problem.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks. Ron stopped over this afternoon and told me that.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It would be nice if someone would post a picture of the modified latch. Then we can add this to the sticky.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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trunk latch mod

Geoff, KGB911 posted the mod pics. Here is link in his build thread

Trunk popper
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stang_killer View Post
Geoff, KGB911 posted the mod pics. Here is link in his build thread

Trunk popper
Thx killer

I just added them both to the build subjects sticky.

I hope everyone remembers to check there or PM me if you think something needs to be added. I'm sure that sticky could be more complete.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What's the Catch

Great Pictures! I understand that the Newer kits come with the correct single catch latch!
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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i also noticed the flimsy back panel

i noticed when i was shutting the trunk and adjusting the latch that the rear panel had so much give it made it hard to latch so we devised a support rod running from the lower trunk aluminum where the wall goes up in that corner to the latch support i drilled a hole in the support frame and used a threaded end thru it with 2 nuts to adjust it then ran the rod down at an angle to the crease in the trunk floor where it turns up mounted a piece of angle to it to support it in the corner and it made a major difference. i was concerned after slamming the trunk a few times it would start to stress the corners around the taillights this alleviates that give and you can just press in on the trunk now and it latches plus it allows you to adjust the center in or out to align the lower outer adges of trunk properly. Dave also looked at it and decided to install one on his and said it made a huge difference I will post some pics as soon as i can
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You might consider strengthening the trunk floor as well. I have a picture of mine on my build page, I think. You can actually sit on mine now with the mods I've done.
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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heres a sorta rough drawing

trunk rod to support latch assy
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File Type: jpg trunk latch support rod.JPG (31.6 KB, 118 views)
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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One of the first things that I did was make a new trunk floor out of some .050" aluminum that I had. That change alone made a nice difference.

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Old 01-30-2012, 03:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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revised trunk latch and bracket

I got new revised trunk latch from FF, cut and rebent the bracket to fit the rear body after I reinforced it with fiberglass across the entire back.
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File Type: jpg 020.jpg (248.7 KB, 170 views)
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Nice work Gary !!!
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:23 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Trunk Latch and Striker Angle

Wasted much of yesterday on the trunk latch. The fundamental problem looks to be that the latch is at least 20 degrees off from the correct angle, Although it is convenient to mount it directly to the lip of the opening, that action results in the wrong approach angle when the striker contacts the latch. Logic would suggest that the striker / latch should have an axis that intersects a line that connects the trunk hinge points. With the latch mounted according to the manual, the axis is at about 50 degrees from horizontal whereas the correct angle is more like 30 degrees. Even with a lot of tweaking, there is a scraping component when the striker contacts the latch. That scraping imparts friction and causes some of the flex that we all have experienced. The latch should just snick closed and open, but the action does not allow it, as I see it. Many of you are farther along and some have built multiple 33's. Has anyone come up with a simple solution or am I looking at this wrong???
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:01 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My rear panel support bar corrects everything as the panel is much more stiff. I haven't modified my trunk latch to a single catch and it works fine. It's the minor deflection of the rear body panel that causes most of the problems.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:37 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
My rear panel support bar corrects everything as the panel is much more stiff. I haven't modified my trunk latch to a single catch and it works fine. It's the minor deflection of the rear body panel that causes most of the problems.
What he said. I also added some support underneath the trunk sheetmetal and and a brace from the latch to the trunk floor. This along with Tim's rear panel support bar adds much needed rigidity to the whole back of the body around the latch area.
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Old 08-09-2013, 02:16 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Machined a 20 degree wedge from aluminum and plan to install Saturday. In my foggy mind, stiffening the trunk lip is treating the symptom rather than the cause. It will resist the flexing better but not remove the friction caused by the misalignment of the latch and hinge points. Will also need to re-bend the steel bracket to accommodate the different angle. Thanks for the replies. May need to stiffen the trunk opening lip also to correct some gaps at the lower corners.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The trunk bar will help fix the flexing issue. The trunk will then latch correctly, regardless of the angularity.
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