Mounted two NACA ducts into the forward body arms. These will feed a marine quality inline blower via SCAT hose. The inlet will be covered with a screen. Once painted the same color as the body, you won't even know they are there. They will feed air to the footboxes. I have them on my Cobra ( Cobra Earl sells a kit on the "roadster side of the forum ) and they work well. Mine are a little different but should work well. A nice alternative when you don't want to run the AC.
Covered one of my dash panels with wood. The panel will have no switches on it, just the gauges. The gauges will be wired from the main harness to a terminal block.
From the terminal block. wires will run to 6 quick disconnect plugs. Once the plugs are disconnected, the 6 nuts that hold the wood panel on from behind the dash can be removed and the whole gauge cluster comes off with the wood panel. Just the gauge panel can be removed as well.
Access holes were cut in the glass to access the electric power brakes and the A/C unit for maintenance or removal.
If you do a search on line for electric power brakes you will find several articles that explain the system. I'm just developing parts that will adapt that system to the 33 using the supplied pedal assembly. Several have fitted power brakes, but I didn't want a vacuum booster on the firewall. A hydroboost system from a Mustang would also work (I have it on my Cobra) but again, I want to keep the firewall clean and don't want an engine driven system.
The system is about $1200.00 but the some of the FFR stuff could be sold to offset cost and some have spent half of that on parts to try and upgrade the brakes. After manual brakes on the first Cobra, I will not build a car with manual brakes again. I now it is expensive but from my position, worth the money to have the stopping power when you need it.
The power steering option is expensive as well but those that have upgraded to the electric units all feel it's worth the money as well.
Dale,
The system is about $1200.00 but the some of the FFR stuff could be sold to offset cost
The power steering option is expensive as well but those that have upgraded to the electric units all feel it's worth the money as well.
tim
I have been thinking about the hyd booster system that uses a PS pump
but I plan to wait and see how much room is left for the belt driven acc's before I take that leap. Some kind of PB are def on my bucket list
Thanks
Dale
The system is marketed by ABS power brakes. I've figured out some parts to adapt it to the 33 is all. You can see several articles on line of installations and customer comments.
In regard to safety, this type of accumulator system has been used for years. In fact, the hdro boost system found on the newer Mustangs ( and others ) is basically the same type system but uses an engine driven hydraulic ( PS ) pump. That same pump is also used for the power steering on those cars. So, it supplies pressure to both the PS and the PB. In the case of the ABS system, it uses the electric pump for just the brakes. The pump only runs to keep the accumulator pressure up. It doesn't run continuously.
Electric brakes sounds like a great option when building a 33 Hotrod. Do you think it will be possible to retrofit the system as there is very little access under the dash.
Yes I believe I've figured out a way to do it with the unit behind the dash. The plan is to mount the pump elsewhere and to use the remote reservoir in the same location I already have it. The reservoir could be mounted on the front of the firewall as well. As long as the reservoir is mounted above the pump, the rest doesn't matter. I have a design to use the existing FFR supplied pedal assembly but the bias bar function will no longer work. The system will need a bias valve to the rear brakes.
ABS states you have to use their reservoir and I was disappointed with that as I have the CNC triple reservoir mounted already. I'll have to try and sell it and get the single reservoir for the hyd. clutch.
This is basically what the system look like. The little ball looking thing is the accumulator. The electric hydraulic pump is behind the MC. This is on a Chevy truck but the 33 would be similar and work the same way.
I'm sure it can as I have already figured out one way to do it. Usually more than one way to do something though. I will post pictures when it's complete but am concentrating on the IRS right now.
Machined up some precision Delrin bushings to replace the factory oilite bushings. The ones for the frame mounted door bracket are the full length of the bracket bushing and will add stability to to door hinges. One pressed into place, the bushing will be reamed for a "slip fit" to the OD of the bolts. This will make to doors, hood and trunk hinges more solid.
The design is two pieces that allow the separate washer to add more bearing surface to the assembly.
Finally got around to machining up a prototype for the rear deck stabilizer/adjuster that I developed earlier in the build. It gives a lot of support to the rear deck and doubles as an adjuster to raise or lower the rear deck if you have issues with the curve not matching that of the trunk lid.
Last two pieces of wood for the interior. The small gauge panel will be suspended below and behind the retractable cup holders but above the transmission tunnel wood. That piece was just too pretty to hide.
When we did the Car Warriors show, we kicked around the idea of cutting the bottom off the door and filling to that first ledge with the piece we cutoff. The door doesn't need to be that tall as you see by the sill. that way you wouldn't have to just notch the door and worry about it opening around it etc. Just a thought.
I was also playing around with the concept of shortening the doors. I never thought of bringing the pipes out 1/2 way down the door, very cool idea!!! Here is a mockup of my revised door line.
__________________
#365
Build site www.33coyote.com
Coyote / TKO 600/3.55/Torsen
Wilwood 6 piston, bike fenders
Boyd's Tank, QA1 shocks & Springs
Speedhut gages
Rag top
"Never let physics or common sense get in the way of a good idea"
I think it works out pretty well. Just beyond the body penetration, it steps down to the 2 1/4" FFR stuff and there's very little modification. The good side is it gets the heat from the exhaust outside the car.
Still tossing around the full size door idea. It wouls be easier to just shorten it but for some reason, I like the longer door better. Might add some character to have it step around the side pipe. We'll see. Thanks for looking.
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