Work on transmission tunnel continues. Almost done. First picture is in the "run position" second picture is in the "retract position" and the third picture is of the slide mechanism.The hole in the front is where a box will be mounted to house all the switches. In the run position, the armrest will slide forward and cover the box. In the retract position, the switches will be exposed to start the car and turn on switches. The FFR arm rest will not be used. A housing will be built around the rear, so the rear of the arm rest will not be exposed in the run position.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 12-15-2011 at 10:50 AM..
This is a fantastic idea, didn't I see something similar while watching Thunderball last week? I am going to try something similar so I can keep my dash clean. Thanks again for sharing all your ideas.
Build site www.33coyote.com
Coyote / TKO 600/3.55/Torsen
Wilwood 6 piston, bike fenders
Boyd's Tank, QA1 shocks & Springs
"Never let physics or common sense get in the way of a good idea"
Work on the roll pan form began today. The form is made of ribs like those pictured, connected with stringers from one side of the car to the other. The ribs get progressively smaller from one side of the pan to the other to transition to the fender area. The voids between the ribs and the stringers get filled with foam boards and then sanded to shape. The result is the mold to the the final form of the roll pan. Glass is then placed over the mold and a part is produced. You can get the basic idea of the shape of the roll pan from the rib pictured. One version of the mold will have a recess that the retractable license plate mechanism retracts the license plate into, and hidden from sight when in the retract position.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 12-18-2011 at 01:04 AM..
Got the wood piece developed for the tunnel that completes the majority of the wood interior in the first picture. Second picture is for a roll bar trim plate this has a rubber gasket behind it that seal off the roll bar from the waterfall. I made them for my roll bar and a friends FFR supplied roll bar. This is an aluminum piece that can be polished or painted.
Pictures of my defrost slots in the cowl and my header that mounts underneath the cowl to feed the slots. An inlet duct can be mounted anywhere along the header depending on conflicting space behind the dash.
I fabricate some brackets for my headrests. This aluminum piece will be replaced with a 4130 steel bracket. The piece between the seats is the final interior piece. It will be covered with Andes Rose Wood to match the rest of the interior pieces. I had to move the seat belt slots to center on the seats. The trim ring is actually a defrost vent I had laying around from a previous build. The roll bar will have a flush mounted third brake light installed.
The metal piece will be covered with wood with my company logo: " Kootenai Valley Customs" inserted.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 06-20-2012 at 06:10 PM..
I wanted to clean things up a bit in the engine compartment. I didn't like the oil filter hanging off the engine with so much of that area exposed on the 33, so I installed this remote oil filter set up.
Continuing the effort to clean up the engine compartment, I didn't want to run a cable for the throttle. I had some parts laying around from an airplane build so I fabricated a mechanical throttle linkage. Most of the parts will be replaced with some that have some shine to them. The rod end at the firewall will need to be replaced with a shorter unit to allow the 2" + travel I need for full throttle.
The aluminum plates are for attaching the body the the chassis frame bottom. You can pull the body out at the front of the rear fender as will as the front of the door. The fiberglass just rests up against the chassis in these locations and I didn't like that either. Now my powder coat won't get rubbed off by the glass.
Photos below are of my steering shaft seal and a seal that covers the spherical steering shaft bearing. I developed a billet piece that covers the factory self aligning bearing that is at the machinist. This billet piece will incorporate the seal in the second picture.
Realk nice thread. Your interior will be one of a kind and very stunning!
Mark IV Kit arrived on Sept 17 Th 2010
Engine started on December 23 Rd 2010
First GOKART ride December 27 th 2010.
Body work started on March 5 th 2011.
Interior and GoKart completed july 17th 2011
Paint completed november 30 th 2011
Police inspection march 7 th 2012
Mechanical inspection april 2nd. 2012
Tags and on the road may 9th 2012
Pictures are of a remote brake bias adjuster. Turn the knob one direction, rear bias. Turn it the other direction and bias goes toward the front. It is mounted out of sight but can be reached while strapped into the car. A steel spiral wound cable runs from the knob to the bias bar.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 01-21-2012 at 06:22 PM..
Mounted these CNC reservoirs. I drilled holes in the back of them like the Scott's Hot Rod ones for a better transition to the MC's. I wish the Scott's ones had a larger volume but these are about the same price compared to some out there. A shame to drill holes in such a purdy part. The cover is "flush" to the cowl.
I made a mechanical/adjustable throttle pedal stop. This may become a billet piece that includes the throttle pedal mount.Some guys on the Cobra side reported bent throttle plates as a result of not having a cable travel limiting device and placing excessive pressure on the throttle plate at the carb. This adjustable unit allows precise travel stop of the throttle pedal arm.
The other picture is of my foot operated dimmer switch. I have a turn signal stalk switch on my Cobra but sometimes, simple is better, hence the floor mounted unit.
Spoke with a customer yesterday that said a tech person that he spoke with said it's possible for the throttle to stick in the full open position due to excessive wear on some parts if a stop isn't used. I'd never heard of that before but thought I'd pass it on.
Tim, Are you going to sell that throttle linkage? I do like the way it looks. Thanks, John. BTW, I installed the brake bias adjuster today. It will surely make balancing the brakes easier in the future. Thanks again for your info and your build ideas. I enjoy them a lot.
Welcome to FFCars! The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory