since I built a header for the defrost vents I will be using these for the seat belt trim bezels. I also moved them so the belts are centered over the center of the seats.
Hard to tell from the picture, but I welded a small diameter fender washer to a 2" diameter fender washer and bonded to the underside of the body for the windshield bolt holes to strengthen.
I glassed in a 1" diameter square tube to rear trunk area. This is pretty flexible body panel without it. Even when the trunk latch is mounted. Doesn't move now. The bracket in the picture helps too, but is mainly to attach a panel to that will close up that area and hide wiring and linear actuator for retractable license plate.
Hi Tim,
Your '33 looks amazing. Great ideas and execution as always!
My mind is going crazy not intimately involved in a build. After seeing your build I'm very itchy to start another project. Can't decide between the coupe or the '33.
what made you choose the '33?
I was torn between a GTM and the 33. I was going to do a GTM with a targa top. After speaking with David Borden, I elected to go with the 33. I like the idea of an open car more than a closed in cockpit. David pointed out the expense of the GTM vs the 33 and it fit into my retirement plans better.
I still have the Cobra and really don't need two roadsters but like you, I have to have a build going all the time !!! It's a curse my friend !!! LOL !!!
I'll be using an IRS on this car and David has shown some interest in reviewing my design when I get to that point. Given all the CAD and engineering he has done on the FFR cars, it will me a major plus for me.
If you elect to go with a 33, e mail me as I have some parts you might be interested in. Better yet, if you give me a phone number, I'd be glad to call and discuss the 33 build with you.
Thanks again for the compliments Bob. From you, it means a lot.
Trunk sheet metal front bulkhead and side panels split to make easier installation and removal after body is on. Corner piece added to connect front bulkhead and side panels, I have made about 10 pieces to connect various pieces of sheet metal like this to make everything stronger and more rigid.
These forward foot box panels serve several purposes. It makes carpet easier to install, allows for insulation to be "sandwiched" in between the firewall and the foot box and hides the steering shaft bearing. In addition, you can now install a boot around the steering shaft and it all looks cleaner. Similar panels will be made for the upper firewall area.
Hi again Tim,
Just a few more comments.
It's builders like yourself that really inspire others. Just like with your roadster, your creative adaptations and solutions have helped countless other owners improving and tweeking FFR's great product.
This is especially true for new release products such as the '33.
FFR has gone thru many model upgrades to their roasdter, incorperating many builders' ideas improving the product deligered to the client. I'm sure they are taking notice of all your detail changes for their next "33 model release. Unfortunately economics always plays a role in the equation delivering an affordable product.
I'm sure everyone would want their kit to include all of the mods you finessed. You are an especially special builder for sharing all the the tips and techniques with out any reservations. I'm sure I will see your mods in future "33 upgrades!
I'll send you a PM and my phone number. I would like to continue our friendship and discuss your build.
Thanks again Tim,
Bob Mac
These little panels tie in nicely with the forward foot box panels. They hide the hinge and will make a nifty place for a map pocket, Both these and the forward foot box panels will be made to be removed so you can access the hinge are and the steering shaft bearing. The rather large gap in the picture between the tranny tunnel and the forward foot box panel is due to the angle the picture was taken. There is a uniform gap between the transmission tunnel and the foot box panel to allow for carpet and edge binding for the carpet.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 11-17-2011 at 10:57 PM..
A poster board and masking tape "dam" was made in place after the doors were adjusted. The dam was then filled with fiberglass epoxy so the door striker plate fit the body perfectly. Otherwise, when the striker is tightened, the body wants to flex as the factory supplied fitting had a substantial gap between the fitting and the body. This formed the wedge you see that has a yellowish tint to it.
Last edited by Tim Whittaker; 11-17-2011 at 11:02 PM..
I'm really enjoying your build page Tim. Those little side panels that hide the hinge look like they were laser cut. Or is there some other way to achieve that standard of fabrication? Glad you deleted your boomerangs.
The prototypes I build with my bandsaw and a large belt sander. I can produce production quality parts that way, but will have them laser cut. It's amazing what one can do with some simple tools. Thanks for looking at the build page.
One of the areas I felt needed some additional support was the deck in front of the trunk lid. Not only does this little device add ample support, it is adjustable in elevation. Stick a screwdriver in a hole in the bottom and you can move the deck up or down. This aids in fitting the trunk lid and helps match the curve of the trunk lid to that of the body. This is a prototype that will probably become a billet piece.
Note in the second picture the trim plates that go in the opening for the trunk hinges. These have a rubber gasket split down the middle to help seal off the trunk from the elements.
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