The snip above caught my attention. Will this be the first 33 with ABS?
I am curious if you are using an OEM tone wheels/tire size/pump combo
to pull off this high tech feat. Care to share yet, or do we have to wait and see this one at SEMA 2012
The snip above caught my attention. Will this be the first 33 with ABS?
I am curious if you are using an OEM tone wheels/tire size/pump combo
to pull off this high tech feat. Care to share yet, or do we have to wait and see this one at SEMA 2012
Dale
You won't have to wait until SEMA, but I'm not really going to talk about it until everything is hooked up and working properly...if it works, I'll tell you all about it.
Picked up some parts today. The engine aluminum is all polished. Custom CNC brakes are almost finished. Should be able to pick them up next week and get this thing off to the exhaust shop.
Picked up some parts today. The engine aluminum is all polished. Custom CNC brakes are almost finished. Should be able to pick them up next week and get this thing off to the exhaust shop.
Adam
Amazing how different the intake looks polished.
Which pan did you settle on?
DB
Picked up the custom front brakes from CNC this morning. 13" rotors, 6 piston calipers with 1.5" pistons. The spindle was modified and the ABS sensor was added. They have race pads in them right now, street pads are on the way. Love 'em already and I haven't even plumbed them in yet.
I know its been a few weeks since I've put up an update, but we've been slowly working away. The car went to Chrysler's SpringFest on a trailer and it was a pretty big hit. Since then, we got the rear end back with its new custom CNC brakes. We fabricated the brackets for the oil and transmission dipsticks. The Dakota Digital dash face was installed and we finished up the steering column. Also swapped out the Koni suspension for some QA1 parts that better fit the car's theme and we installed Erik's hitch/bumper assembly and remote battery terminals.
Last edited by 1fastsedan; 04-24-2012 at 02:40 PM..
What are the rear coil overs? I like the chrome(?)/polished look!!
thnx
Robert
Thanks guys! Robert, the shocks are QA1 Proma Star's and the chrome springs are also from QA1. The front will eventually have chrome springs also, but they're on back-order until July.
If you're going to swap yours out, I highly recommend their optional steep angle spring cap or a 3/4" spring seat spacer. We just put them in yesterday, but the adjuster has almost no thread in it...so we ordered the taller spring cap to move the spring down on the shock body.
We've been plugging along for the past few weeks. Since my last update, we rough fit the grille, hood, and nose fiberglass. We installed the tail lights today and rough fit the door hardware. The firewall is now set and ready for some welding next week. The brake calipers are off at polishing and we've decided to switch to a floor mount pedal box, so brake plumbing should start in about 2-3 weeks or so.
Thanks to Ridetech for this idea. We went with a different manufacturer, but decided that that floor mount pedal box was needed. Due to our huge automatic, we needed to move all the pedals to the left. And the floor pedals opened up the dash for mounting some electronics modules. We went with the rear facing masters to keep the firewall clean.
Your car is very nice and I am sure it will be a rocket once you get her all done. I am very interested in your choice of pedals...what brand are they? Will you build a bulk head to hide the cylinders and the lines or ?? I agree that this does give you more room under the dash for more important items.
Thanks guys! Robert, the shocks are QA1 Proma Star's and the chrome springs are also from QA1. The front will eventually have chrome springs also, but they're on back-order until July.
If you're going to swap yours out, I highly recommend their optional steep angle spring cap or a 3/4" spring seat spacer. We just put them in yesterday, but the adjuster has almost no thread in it...so we ordered the taller spring cap to move the spring down on the shock body.
Adam
Have you decided how tall a tire to run on the back yet?
I have seen posts about moving the axle back an inch so taller tires 28-30" look centered in the wheelwells. I'm looking at making new adjustable bars for the 4 link to fix that issue and get some pinion angle adjustment.
Thoughts?
Dale
Adam
Have you decided how tall a tire to run on the back yet?
I have seen posts about moving the axle back an inch so taller tires 28-30" look centered in the wheelwells. I'm looking at making new adjustable bars for the 4 link to fix that issue and get some pinion angle adjustment.
Thoughts?
Dale
My body isn't on yet (just mocked up), so I can't comment on the centering of the wheel. I'm also planning on running full fenders which makes things more complicated.
If there is an issue, I'll be looking at adjustable control arms. They're an easy enough fix to buy or fab.
Your car is very nice and I am sure it will be a rocket once you get her all done. I am very interested in your choice of pedals...what brand are they? Will you build a bulk head to hide the cylinders and the lines or ?? I agree that this does give you more room under the dash for more important items.
The pedals are from a UK company called OBP. They're one of only 2 pedal assemblies that I found that put the master cylinder back towards the driver instead of through the firewall.
The master cylinders will be covered with a plate (heel rest) and then carpeted over. The hump shouldn't be too noticeable once the trans tunnel is fabbed and everything is carpeted.
Adam
Have you decided how tall a tire to run on the back yet?
I have seen posts about moving the axle back an inch so taller tires 28-30" look centered in the wheelwells. I'm looking at making new adjustable bars for the 4 link to fix that issue and get some pinion angle adjustment.
Thoughts?
Dale
Cheap enough to buy and save the time. There are numerous single and double adjustable kits out there. The one below is a UPR for the Mustang using coil-overs. Might as well get the uppers that are adjustable too. I have the 3 link so I might have a tube length issue for the top link. The FFR lowers are desirable by the Mustang guys using coil-overs and adjustable uppers (like my Mach1). That will bring in a few $$$.
I'm looking at a 315/30 18". Here is the current top contender: Proxes R888 | Toyo Tires
My body isn't on yet (just mocked up), so I can't comment on the centering of the wheel. I'm also planning on running full fenders which makes things more complicated.
If there is an issue, I'll be looking at adjustable control arms. They're an easy enough fix to buy or fab.
Those tires are 25.5 so you are right in the Mustang range and likely won't need adjustable arms unless you don't like your pinion angle. And it will help with your high gear rearend and OD combo to smooth the final drive ratio. With less than 4" of sidewall that tire would be brutal on the roads here.
The pedals are from a UK company called OBP. They're one of only 2 pedal assemblies that I found that put the master cylinder back towards the driver instead of through the firewall.
The master cylinders will be covered with a plate (heel rest) and then carpeted over. The hump shouldn't be too noticeable once the trans tunnel is fabbed and everything is carpeted.
Have you scrapped the 90* booster ?
With the auto/no clutch and the gas pedal mounted to the floor
would there be room for that booster if the brake was the only thing still mounted up top?
Have you scrapped the 90* booster ?
With the auto/no clutch and the gas pedal mounted to the floor
would there be room for that booster if the brake was the only thing still mounted up top?
I did scrap the 90 degree booster. It would not have fit with the air conditioning unit. If you don't run the air conditioning, you could have a shot at running a 90 degree booster. The other issue is with the frame that the overhead Wilwood pedal box mounts to. You may need to remove it to run the booster/pedal assembly, which leaves you with a steering column mounting problem.
In the end, it was just easier to set up a bitching manual brake set-up that is properly dialed in.
Thanks to Ridetech for this idea. We went with a different manufacturer, but decided that that floor mount pedal box was needed. Due to our huge automatic, we needed to move all the pedals to the left. And the floor pedals opened up the dash for mounting some electronics modules. We went with the rear facing masters to keep the firewall clean.
The calipers are coming along too.
I did some changes on my car (pedals and steering wheel) which have put my legs in competition for space with the steering wheel. I don't have the tilt column but I'm really going to have tune the pedal and seat location. It might be something to look at now with your changes. It looks like your feet will be elevated a fair amount above the floor. My problems are worse because I have a manual. Plus, I'm under tall at 5'6".
I did some changes on my car (pedals and steering wheel) which have put my legs in competition for space with the steering wheel. I don't have the tilt column but I'm really going to have tune the pedal and seat location. It might be something to look at now with your changes. It looks like your feet will be elevated a fair amount above the floor. My problems are worse because I have a manual. Plus, I'm under tall at 5'6".
Geoff
Thanks for the tip on UPR, looks like good stuff and maybe solve the sway bar issue at the same time, since some of their links have ears for that.
At 5'6" you would not be "under tall" in my house we would see eye to eye
But when the 6' wife's around you would get a stiff neck for sure.
I was worried about the pedal height/position too because with our stature and seat position, high pedals would not be very comfortable. For visibility our seat will likely need to be mounted higher and that will leave room under there for more switches, stereo etc. to clean up the cockpit.
The big guys use the wookie term, perhaps we could be of Napoleanic stature, unless you have a better term?
Geoff
Thanks for the tip on UPR, looks like good stuff and maybe solve the sway bar issue at the same time, since some of their links have ears for that.
At 5'6" you would not be "under tall" in my house we would see eye to eye
But when the 6' wife's around you would get a stiff neck for sure.
I was worried about the pedal height/position too because with our stature and seat position, high pedals would not be very comfortable. For visibility our seat will likely need to be mounted higher and that will leave room under there for more switches, stereo etc. to clean up the cockpit.
The big guys use the wookie term, perhaps we could be of Napoleanic stature, unless you have a better term?
I like "vertically challenged" but I don't get too much teasing. I'm not the one with scares on my head from bumping it on stuff. This is especially a problem in the aviation field.
I would like to be about 3 inches taller, that way my weight would be close to ideal. They don't make a pill for that yet.
[QUOTE=Buck70;2662853]Geoff
Thanks for the tip on UPR, looks like good stuff and maybe solve the sway bar issue at the same time, since some of their links have ears for that.
QUOTE]
Those bars at full extension are only 1/2" longer than stock, so with the angle involved they wouldn't move the axle very far. I am waiting to hear if they will do a custom length. I'll post up the results.
Geoff
Thanks for the tip on UPR, looks like good stuff and maybe solve the sway bar issue at the same time, since some of their links have ears for that.
QUOTE]
Those bars at full extension are only 1/2" longer than stock, so with the angle involved they wouldn't move the axle very far. I am waiting to hear if they will do a custom length. I'll post up the results.
I didn't know it's only .5" but after messing with mine today, I think .5" might be exactly what's needed. Let us know what you find out. I have someone at a different company working up a different part to help on the front end.
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