Brett,
When you say that the passanger side upper control arm does not fit, what are you refering to?
Doug
When you install the upr control arm onto the body of the car. I can get one bolt in (front or back) but once one is in, the other one is so out of alignment that the bolt wont even start into the hole. I can pry it with a big screwdriver and pulling as hard as i can, get the hole to align but even then the back end of the hole is not lined up. As soon as i release pulling on the screwdriver, it goes back to the original misalignment. I should be receiving the second control arm from FF5 today or tomorrow.
I think he means the shocks should be mounted straight up and down. There should be another set of mounting holes on the outside of the frame, the eye of the shock goes up inside the "pocket"
im not sure but i thank you got your upper coilovers mounted in the wrong spot you should dubble check that can someone elese comform that they go this way
You are right. I am not at home to check physically, but all the photos i see that the shock is almost vertical where mine are at a pretty big angle. Thanks so much for catching that.
FWIW, I'm building #227, and I just cut off the ends of the lower control arms, and the outer tie rod ends also. Took .5" off each piece. I was able to get just about all the caster out of the front end. If I can remember, I'll take a measurement tomorrow on my lower arms to see what they measure. I do remember it was a pain in the butt to get the front arms into place. I have a 2lb. urethane dead blow hammer that I'm sure I used on them. Seems I remember taking a regular 2.5# cross pein to a couple of the mount ears on the frame too, because I was thinking to myself... as much as they check these things before they leave the plant, you would think chit like this would be fitting when you got it...
I got the new upr control arm from FF5 and it fits! What a relief. I was able to build the drivers side while the new passenger side is off to PC. While doing that i noticed that the drive shaft coming out the differential is off from center of the car by about and inch?? See photo below. Is that normal for an 8.8 rear end? I dont recall seeing that at the build school. Somebody tell me I dont have a biggg problem here.
Brett,
My pinion is offset to the passenger side also by about a half inch or so. I will be interested to see how others respond to your inquiry, especially those that have completed their car and are driving it.
Jim
#246
Yup, totally normal with 8.8. If the pinion was in the center, then people would complain that the rear cover was offset to one side. Can't have it both ways.
It was also confirmed by factory five this morning that it is normal that the pinion is offset to passenger side. Sure looks like the drive shaft will be close to the frame....
With reference to my earlier post on the recommended pre-installed lengths for the lower control arms in the manual. FF5 stated that probably the recommended length in the manual is too short and that the parts should not need to be cut. He said they will be aligning one of the newer cars in the next few weeks and will confirm this. If this is the case, they will be changing the recommended lengths in the manual.
The shaft looks like it is close. I have to have a shaft made anyway, as I'm using an LSx engine and 4L60E GM trans. My driveshaft place said they can make me one in 2.5 inch tube that will take whatever I can dish out. THis should give me some more clearance to the tunnel.
The new upr control arm fit perfect - no coaxing required. I'm leaving the rotors and calipers off for now trying to reduce rust on rotors. The nuts for the tie rod end to spindle arm are nylock as opposed to castle as stated in the manual. Is this what others with new kits are getting? Also there are two extra nuts in the tie rod end bag???
Now a stupid question. How do you adjust toe-in (length of tie rod)? There is no flat (to get a wrench on) on the inner tie rod. Is the inner tie rod able to rotate inside the steering box? Or do you have to disconnect the tie rod ball joint from the spindle arm to rotate it?
Nice to receive no reply...
Anyway, the FF5 people tell me that the inner tie rod is designed to rotate and you can use vice grips to turn it. I'll be grinding small flats on my inner tie rod so i dont tear up the finish with vice grips. FF5 says the torque value for the ball joint nut on the outer tie rod is 35 ft lbs. This is not stated in the manual. At least not in the manual revision I have.
... had the samed immediate thought about the direction of the coil overs. I had mine upside down myself, as this look right to me. But the manual says different.
#236
__________________
Kai
Hanau/Germany
54 F100 347CID Stroker SBF Automatic / 65 Galaxie 446CID Stroker FE Big Block 5-Speed / 67 Mustang Convertible 306CID SBF Automatic / 07 Mustang GT Convertible 4.6-3V Automatic / FFR Hot Rod #236 4.6-2V 5-Speed
As much as everone complains about, it does have a lot of usefull information.
I agree, it's 1000 times better than the first manual that came with Bill's car (FFR 010). I think using the sticky threads here with the current manual provides adequate info.
I know even the "pro" builders get things in wrong from time to time. That's part of the beauty of this place. I know Stack has sent me a few PMs about something installed wrong or unusual. I had already fixed one and the other really saved me some time. It really is helpful to have a few thousand eyes (many of them very experienced) looking over your shoulder via our build threads.
It's gonna be hard because it's Thanksgiving but I'm working on the car for at least an hour today. I refined my transmission mount some and can't wait to bolt something else in for the LAST time.
Made some pretty good progress this weekend. Been spraying a lot of Lizardskin. It takes some time as you need to do it on a warm day (70+) and you need 24 hours curing time between sound insulating and heat. I'm putting two coats on both sides of floor panels. Its pretty thin (thickness of a credit card per coat) but I'm a bit concerned about my drilled holes lining up. If i did it again, I would apply the coating before drilling.
I completed running rear brake lines and most of the front. I'm using the SS flex lines that came with the kit on the rear brakes and purchased 23" for the fronts on the internet. When I get them, I can complete the fronts. I'm pretty happy with the tube runs. First time i've run brake lines and only ruined one tube.
I also completed the steering linkage, installed the battery and mounted the firewall (hopefully the last time).
I get my engine and tranny this week and hope to get that installed over Xmas break.
Just recieved the superduty T5 from Promotion Powertrain yesterday (no photos yet) and Engine Factory is shipping the motor today. Nothing like an early Xmas present to yourself.
Wish I could also stand outside and work on my car with shorts and flip flops. But in order to get to the garage this afternoon I need to shuffle snow first. And then don't ask how many layers of clothing I need to stay warm.
__________________
Kai
Hanau/Germany
54 F100 347CID Stroker SBF Automatic / 65 Galaxie 446CID Stroker FE Big Block 5-Speed / 67 Mustang Convertible 306CID SBF Automatic / 07 Mustang GT Convertible 4.6-3V Automatic / FFR Hot Rod #236 4.6-2V 5-Speed
Wish I could also stand outside and work on my car with shorts and flip flops. But in order to get to the garage this afternoon I need to shuffle snow first. And then don't ask how many layers of clothing I need to stay warm.
Yes its a 347. Supposed to make 425 HP. Should be enough for a while. I feel for you with your weather but its 115 to 120 in my garage with 95% humidity in July/ August which is no fun either. Hope to be driving it by then!
I received my engine from engine factory and transmission from pro-formance just before
Xmas. Installed the clutch, bellhousing and tranny with the engine on the crate. Had to cut the corners off the bottom of the crate to get the engine hoist over the center of the engine. I used only two chains with bolts into the heads. The engine was tilted a little to one side but went in no problem.
I first tried with no shims or washers. See clearance in picture below. I then added three washers and am more comfortable with the clearance.
No shims or washers
clearance with no shims
3 washers
clearance with 3 washers
Now I am taking the drive shaft back out to paint it to match the rear end. The paint on it from FF5 is crap. It is already starting to rust in some areas.
Great looking engine, Brett. It also looks like you got a decent clearance between the driveshaft and the back of the trans. I had (have) a little problem with that but I think it will work out once I get the car on the ground.
I notice you have installed the billet reservoirs on the firewall. I just got a triple for Christmas and am thinking about installing it. Did you mount it so the outlets from the reservoirs are above the upper frame rail supporting the firewall or below? It looks like the reservoirs will just clear the hood once it is installed.
Hello Jim.
I mounted the reservoir as close as I coud get to the tube that runs at an angle. In fact, i did not use the bolt hole in the lower right corner of the reservoir as it would have to run thru the tube. See photo below. On the engine side, the top of the reservoir cap is about a 1/2" below the top of the firewall. I'll take a better photo tonight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Unland
Great looking engine, Brett. It also looks like you got a decent clearance between the driveshaft and the back of the trans. I had (have) a little problem with that but I think it will work out once I get the car on the ground.
I notice you have installed the billet reservoirs on the firewall. I just got a triple for Christmas and am thinking about installing it. Did you mount it so the outlets from the reservoirs are above the upper frame rail supporting the firewall or below? It looks like the reservoirs will just clear the hood once it is installed.
Finished front brake lines yesterday. Fabricated a bracket with a curve to match the frame tube. Cut and re-swaged the brake line tubing so no loops are required. I bought new SS flex lines 23" long (used the FF5 supplied ones in the rear). 23" is a little long. 21 or 22 probably would be better but I think it will be ok.
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How do you adjust toe-in (length of tie rod)? There is no flat (to get a wrench on) on the inner tie rod. Is the inner tie rod able to rotate inside the steering box? Or do you have to disconnect the tie rod ball joint from the spindle arm to rotate it?
#236
I feel for you with your weather but its 115 to 120 in my garage with 95% humidity in July/ August which is no fun either. Hope to be driving it by then!
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