Yes, I believe you should have gotten a pop rivit tool with your kit. Mine also has the adapters for the rivitnuts.
You just screw the tool into the rivitnut and compress like a regular pop rivit.
At the bottom of the page there are pictures of how the rivit nut compreses:
Like I said, sometimes you learn several somethings in a day and today is one of those days. Thanks again to Terrible Terry for letting me know there is such an animal as a rivet nut gun, and thanks to robboy and Arrowhead for pointing out that I've had one in my possession since the car was delivered.
When I first used the NCG tool as a riveter, I saw those extra fittings but had no idea how they were used. No instructions included. But now because of the responses from robboy and Arrowhead, I've disassembled the rivet gun from the rivet mode, and put in the pieces to make it a rivet nut gun.
But I now have a question about how far in the riv-nut should be screwed on the tool before pulling the trigger. Should it be screwed in to the bottom of the riv-nut like this:
Or should it be screwed in beyond the bottom like this:
Or some other depth?
Very much appreciate everyone's help with this issue, and thanks for taking the time to teach me something.
Should it be screwed in to the bottom of the riv-nut like this:
Think I answered my own question by looking again at the page Arrowhead provided. To me the diagram shows the gun screw should be at the bottom of the riv-nut. Let me know if that is incorrect.
You have to be carefull installing the rivnuts in the hardtop under the windshield also. I enlarged the hole in the fiberglass on the bottom after I drilled the hole for the rivnut. If you don't, the knurled thumbwheel on the tool gets in the way and the rivnut won't seat all the waydown onto the metal strap inside. The rivnut will be half in and half out of the metal and can pull out.
Finally got the AC condenser and radiator sandwiched together and attached to the grill. Then the fan was installed. Time to install the grill on the frame. I didn't initially install the grill mounts to the upper control arms, so that was the first step. With the grill mounts in place, I set the grill next to the grill mounts and inserted the four 1/4" flat head socket screws through the grill and grill mounts and loosely threaded on the nuts.
But the problem is the grill mounts are not flush with the inside of the grill. Instead the grill mounts both tip toward the center, leaving a gap at the top, while the bottom of the grill mounts touch the side of the grill, as seen here:
I slid the grill mount up and down where it bolts to the upper control arms, but that doesn't bring the top of the grill mounts towards the outside and flush with the grill. Any suggestions?
I've been updating some of the sticky threads to keep them current. I just added this thread to the sticky so other builders and dreamers can reference it.
Loosen the mounts on the control arms then tighten the bolts on the radiator.That should bring the mounts in.
I had the mounts powder coated early on so I had to ease the slots. Now the mounts slide easily up and down in the slots, but there is no horizontal movement, so there is still a gap at the top. Don't want to put a clamp on the mount to pull it flush with the grill because it may deform the grill.
I was frustrated after loosening up the upper bolt on the upper control arm and the grill mounts didn't sit flush with the inside of the grill. But I took another stab at it by just slowly tightening down the 1/4" flat head bolts, hoping not to deform the grill, and everything settled into place. As I was doing the tightening, the grill mount just righted itself in the slots, without harm to the grill. I'm a happy camper.
I know you've seen these type of pictures before, but I just have to add mine. Really like the looks of this grill.
And now from the front where I can really see what several of you have talked about concerning the grill shape. That will teach me to read the forums.
One more step closer to go-kart status (and one less box).
Got the overflow tank mounted today, but only after modifying the overflow tank mount provided. Here are the steps I took.
1. Unfortunately, the first mention of installing the overflow tank is after the instructions for mounting the radiator. And those instructions in v1L of the manual read, "The overflow tank can either be mounted to the radiator as shown in the diagram before the radiator installation or directly to the firewall." So the instructions about the overflow tank need to come right after the hot rod cooling system diagram found on page 179 in v1L of the Instruction Manual and before the radiator has been mounted. However I forged ahead without removing the radiator and grill.
2. My first step was to install the overflow tank mount, FFR #33068. But I ran into a problem because the holes to be used to attach the tank mount were too small.
The two holes had to be increased to 1/4". Then I was able to attach them to the radiator.
3. Then I attempted to attach the overflow tank to the overflow tank mount. I just couldn't find a way to place it in a very tight space and have the overflow tank holes match with the overflow tank mount.
4. I then tried another way to install the tank by attaching the overflow tank directly to the radiator, which looked like a good position.
5. Because the best position for the tank was straight out from the radiator tab, the next step was to flatten the overflow tank mount.
6. I test fitted the flattened tank mount using the original holes in the tank mount and then held up the overflow tank to the intended fastening holes. The tank would not fit in the space and even if it did, it would be too tall, hitting the bottom of the hood. So I decided to use the top tank mount hole as the fastening point to the radiator, shifting the mount downward. That movement required the drilling of a new bottom slot that would match up with the bottom radiator mount. Here are the marks for drilling.
7. Once the slot was formed, it was decided to remove the original hole, which can be seen here.
And here is the final configuration of the tank mount.
8. Next step was to attach the overflow tank to the overflow tank mount at the bottom hole. After that the overflow tank mount was installed on the radiator.
At this point it looks good, but there may be a problem later as the tank sits very close to the upper control arm. You can also see in the picture above that I left the original hole meant to be used for attaching the mount to the top radiator tab. I left it because one builder used a cable to limit the hood opening and I'm thinking this remaining hole may be in the correct position to attach the bottom part of a limiting cable.
Im not sure if I am using the same manual as you, but with 205HR I either have 1i or 1L. My manual showed the bracket on the other side of the radiator (passenger) and having the overflow tank tilted more toward the center of the car.
I ended up doing nearly the same thing as you. I mounted the top tab of the overflow tank to the top tab on the radiator and made a small simple aluminum bracket to go from the bottom tab on the overflow tank to the bottom tab on the radiator. I thought maybe my radiator was leaned to far back causing the tank to hit the upper control arm at first but after seeing other people doing similar mods to their tank mount I don't care. I'll find out more when body panels start going on.
Im not sure if I am using the same manual as you, but with 205HR I either have 1i or 1L. My manual showed the bracket on the other side of the radiator (passenger) and having the overflow tank tilted more toward the center of the car.
I have the original 1e manual that came with the car, and have downloaded 1L which I check before going to each new step. In many cases I've printed out pages from 1L as they are better descriptors as to the steps to be accomplished.
But both manuals show the same cooling system CAD diagram with the overflow nub pointing to the passenger's side. My actual radiator has the nub pointing toward the driver's side, so I placed the overflow tank on the driver's side. And as you said, time will tell as to the fit issue.
I did the same as you've probably seen. I've got the cowl mounted and I'm not running the hood yet so I'm not sure if the hood hinges will hit but it doesn't look like it. As far as clearance once everything is final, I've got about 1/4 between the tank and the control arm so if the tank hits that at any point, I think I have bigger problems than a damaged tank!
timdks,
Apparently I've missed more than I realized. What is with the spacers between the grill and radiator at the bottom and why is the hood hinge between the grill and radiator at the top? I though the grill mounted flush against the radiator tabs.
timdks,
What is with the spacers between the grill and radiator at the bottom and why is the hood hinge between the grill and radiator at the top? I though the grill mounted flush against the radiator tabs.
I'm running the Vintage Air AC and the condenser is sandwiched between the grill and the radiator. Here is a front shot where you can see the condenser.
The bottom spacers account for the added depth of the AC condenser. The hood hinge is laying on the AC condenser tabs, followed by one washer on the top hole and two on the bottom hole of the hood hinge, and then the radiator sits on top of all that. It was fun keeping things in place while inserting the bolts to sandwich it all together. Just following the separate Hot Rod A/C Installation Instructions.
You have to be carefull installing the rivnuts in the hardtop under the windshield also. I enlarged the hole in the fiberglass on the bottom after I drilled the hole for the rivnut. If you don't, the knurled thumbwheel on the tool gets in the way and the rivnut won't seat all the waydown onto the metal strap inside. The rivnut will be half in and half out of the metal and can pull out.
Next time you run into a problem like that you might want to try replacing the knurled thumbwheel on the tool with a smaller diameter hex nut.
That should give you the extra clearance you need without having to enlarge the holes for the tool.
Tim,
I've been contemplating for a while how to mount the radiator overflow so your post was very timely. Your idea worked perfectly for me too and I have the aftermarket fan shroud installed. Makes you wonder why there is a crease in the mounting bracket to begin with when it fits perfectly after flattening?? This should be considered as a build sticky. Thanks!
Thought it would be fun to make sure the rims fit so I tried a rear one on for size.
I certainly didn't anticipate a fit problem since they came from FFR, and they fit perfectly. Sometime I'll get around to purchasing tires. Going with Front: 235/40/17 and Rear: 295/35/18 and probably the BF Goodrich g Force T/A KDW 2.
After that diversion, moved on to plumbing and wiring the radiator. The bottom radiator hose was a challenge. In fact, the corrugated hose slightly rests on the steering shaft.
There isn't any interference when turning the steering wheel, so I think it will be OK.
Then on to the wiring, I diverted from the manual instructions. The first change was to open the front wiring harness and expose more of the blue wire which reads COOLING FAN. To me the length was too short as received, so pulling a portion out of the wiring harness provided more reach. The provided terminal was removed and a spade connector installed per the instructions. But then instead of cutting the black wire coming from the radiator, I took a length of 14 gauge black wire, placed a spade connector on one end and a ring terminal on the other end. The end of the wire with the spade connector was inserted onto the spade coming from the radiator,
and the ring terminal was placed on the thermostat sender.
Also on the front wiring harness is a black wire that reads FAN GROUND. The terminal was removed with a ring terminal replacing it. A ring terminal was then placed between the nut and the cooling fan mount on the lower passenger side of the radiator.
With the radiator installed, plumbed and wired, I thought it was time for a little engine bling. New valve covers were installed, and after getting the AC mount chromed, the mount and compressor were installed.
Now I've moved on to installing the AC evaporator and plumbing. Always something new to learn.
I looked all over town to purchase a pair of braided brake lines for the rear of the car with the 35º banjo fitting. But before I found them, I tried on the ones meant for the front brakes that came with the car, and found they were a good match.
I was able to find something, but the banjo fitting was straight and didn't have the 35º bend as the original braided brake lines. I called FFR and they had what I was looking for.
Thought it would be fun to make sure the rims fit so I tried a rear one on for size.
I certainly didn't anticipate a fit problem since they came from FFR, and they fit perfectly. Sometime I'll get around to purchasing tires. Going with Front: 235/40/17 and Rear: 295/35/18 and probably the BF Goodrich g Force T/A KDW 2.
After that diversion, moved on to plumbing and wiring the radiator. The bottom radiator hose was a challenge. In fact, the corrugated hose slightly rests on the steering shaft.
There isn't any interference when turning the steering wheel, so I think it will be OK.
Then on to the wiring, I diverted from the manual instructions. The first change was to open the front wiring harness and expose more of the blue wire which reads COOLING FAN. To me the length was too short as received, so pulling a portion out of the wiring harness provided more reach. The provided terminal was removed and a spade connector installed per the instructions. But then instead of cutting the black wire coming from the radiator, I took a length of 14 gauge black wire, placed a spade connector on one end and a ring terminal on the other end. The end of the wire with the spade connector was inserted onto the spade coming from the radiator,
and the ring terminal was placed on the thermostat sender.
Also on the front wiring harness is a black wire that reads FAN GROUND. The terminal was removed with a ring terminal replacing it. A ring terminal was then placed between the nut and the cooling fan mount on the lower passenger side of the radiator.
With the radiator installed, plumbed and wired, I thought it was time for a little engine bling. New valve covers were installed, and after getting the AC mount chromed, the mount and compressor were installed.
Now I've moved on to installing the AC evaporator and plumbing. Always something new to learn.
I have a similar issue with the lower radiator hose in that it is very close to the timing pulley and I'm worried about it touching from vibration - wouldnt take long to wear thru that aluminum hose. I'm thinking i will put some rubber between the hose and the frame tubular and hose clamp it to the frame.
I looked all over town to purchase a pair of braided brake lines for the rear of the car with the 35º banjo fitting. But before I found them, I tried on the ones meant for the front brakes that came with the car, and found they were a good match.
I was able to find something, but the banjo fitting was straight and didn't have the 35º bend as the original braided brake lines. I called FFR and they had what I was looking for.
The brake line was shorter than the original,
but it fits well on the front brakes.
I also used the FFR supplied ones on the rear and bought new (longer ones) for use on the front. I found a web site that will fabricate any length and banjo angle you want. I'm suprised that 17" is long enough but i guess it depends on where you mount to the frame. I'll be curious to see how mine clear the side panels (or not).
For info, the website i purchased my front brake braided cables from is called Inlinetube.com. Mine are 23" long and I could have gotten away with 21 or 22" but it really depends on where you place the mounting bracket.
After reading all the issues associated with installing the FFR kit supplied fuel tank, I bit the bullet and ordered the aluminum tank from Boyd Welding. Good news is I purchased it during the Group Buy. This is the EFI model, with the in-tank fuel pump supplied by Boyd Welding.
I also purchased the fuel sender from Speedhut upon the advice of towman, since it will be compatible with the kit supplied fuel gauge.
The installation was pretty straight forward after asking for guidance about the tank placement. Dan Ruth came to the rescue, and the tank is now installed and wired up.
You can read more details about the installation on this thread, post #119, and I will also be posting on my blog tomorrow.
There was one other issue related to the fuel tank vent. In the manual that came with the kit (v. 1e), it shows wrapping the vent line around the seat belt harness frame member.
However in the newest manual (v. 1L), it shows zip tying the vent tube toward the bottom of the frame.
If you don't have the newest manual, it is highly recommended that you get a copy so that you can use the most current procedures for your build.
Upon towman's recommendation, the Speedhut fuel sender (G-SNDR-12) was purchased and installed into the shinny aluminum fuel tank from Boyd's Welding. But I was confused about the wiring because there are three terminals on the sender, SEND, NEG, POS. The wiring harness that came with the kit has a light green wire labeled GAS SENDER, so that was attached to the SEND terminal. There was also a black ground wire, and that was attached to the NEG pole. But I wasn't sure what went to the POS terminal.
Contacted Speedhut and Aaron the owner said you run a 12 volt switched (accessory) power to the POS terminal. For those like me who purchased the Speedhut fuel sender and didn't know how to wire it, now you know too. Life is good.
Speaking of fuel senders, I had an interesting problem which has got to be a faulty wiring setup. I bought the Speedhut programmable fuel gauge and installed it. I had it working until it just stopped. I tried a new sender, everything. Then I noticed that the signal was getting interrupted when I turned on the ignition. There should be no power to it. So I wired it outside of the harness and it works great for now. I'll correct it when I take the body back off for paint and wiring. The Speedhut stuff it awesome but the fuel gauge is so sensitive with the non-baffled tank. If you need more fuel, just drive downhill!
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