I took a chance and just used the #30 holes as a pilot for the 1/4 holes in the firewall. It worked out ok with every hole lining up good enough to start but I had two that wanted to run hard so I will fix this when the firewall comes off. These will get the same paint and clear coats as the front control arms (dark bronze Hammered Finish).
OK I just got the UCA bushings out of the rearend and learned the secret for getting them out without the RIGHT tool.
I got a BFH and hammered on it a few times just because I felt lucky. Ya right.
I then did a search here and the procedures looked too labor intensive. I finally read a post about buying a $130 tool or some crap and the next post said get a bigger hammer and your cost will be $0.00.
I like that way of thinking but I did take a chisel and the first BFH to the forward ends to dimple them. Then I took my B'istFH and two hits with the magic words worked like a charm.
The magic word was #%&*@#%^E$$E*&%^&'er....................
I had been trying to give away a 2000 Olds Bravada for about 6 months. It was a family car for us for years and started having electrical issues about 9 months ago. My plan was to pull the engine and rear end for a Track T project which was changed to the 33 hot rod. The rest of the vehicle would be parted out.
I decided to just give it away to someone in the local car clubs that might be planning a track t. To my surprise I found builders but no takers. Tuesday a paid for a $2.50 ad on S10Forums.com and the dang thing sold in 3 hours. It was just picked up for the asking price of $800.
That will pay for the rest of my gauges which I'm upgrading and have sold the provided set.
I got some prep work done on the rearend today and weather permitting the paint will go on tomorrow.
The rest of the day I spent doing some family things and visiting a friend who just picked up his new project this past Tuesday. It sux seeing his project already on wheels and the body on his 32 is tons nicer than what we get with the 33. This guy has several completed cars under his belt already and I'm looking forward to seeing it go together.
I really like the front brakes which look like huge finned drums but are actually disc brakes. It also has a trunk handle which I hope to have on my 33. I just prefer handles instead of the shaved look.
Thats a nice 32 and cobra. His body is steel isn't it? If so, no comparison. With the right prep and dedication your body should be perfect too. Besides his 32 will never look as cool or perform as well as your 33. lol
Thats a nice 32 and cobra. His body is steel isn't it? If so, no comparison. With the right prep and dedication your body should be perfect too. Besides his 32 will never look as cool or perform as well as your 33. lol
It a glass body and looks better than some of the painted hot rods in the area just as it is. I agree that the 33 will look just as good finished. Haha, the same guy will probably prep and paint them both. I think his 32 will look every bit as cool as the 33 but you're dead on about the performance.
The Cobra was from Unique and was A++++ on the workmanship. Somebody got a great car when he sold it.
Looking great! When the summer rolls around I may be able to swing down there and give you a hand. My wife's family lives in DeFuniak Springs so I will send her down there for the day and work as unskilled labor for a couple of sodas.
__________________
Selling current project, got the boss' approval for a FFR!
Looking great! When the summer rolls around I may be able to swing down there and give you a hand. My wife's family lives in DeFuniak Springs so I will send her down there for the day and work as unskilled labor for a couple of sodas.
I'm working though some choices on interior stuff and will probably decide for certain this weekend. Examples of the bezels are below and they will come with a matching glove box (hidden switch panel). I will have to find the crank handles that match before selecting the shaft style for the PW switches.
Not too bad today. I still had classes but managed to get in the shop for about 90 minutes. I ordered some parts from KarKraft and finally cheated and got the rear tires to touch the ground. The front will be on the deck by Saturday.
Looks good Geoff. I hope to get allot done today. We will see.
stack
I spent all morning measuring and taking pics. This was time well spent because I was able to confirm the AC unit, brake reservoir, oil filter location, and gauge locations. So far things seem to work as planned but the bezel and gauges directly behind the wheel are very close on the inside. I'm toying with mounting them more like the 32's. This would give me more options with the AC vents and controls.
I'm starting to think this car won't be done in 09. It looks like I may move it to the back burner to help a friend finish off his airplane. That will give me time to put away a more money for the paint and body. I may even switch to the Kinsler injection for the vintage look and that will require a few thousand over the current budget.
If the parts aren't flowing freely by the time we get done with the plane I may have to relook the timeline again. My friend with the 32 has everything on hand to finish his car, I guess he could use a hand.
I have ordered a bunch of parts over the last few days and caught myself before tightening down the front brakes with the guide bolt dust boots in wrong.
I had to do a bunch of research on ECU's and I'm just as undecided. The front brake hoses will never work so I'm moving them to the rear after I order some 10mm 1.5 banjo bolts. The best buy so far for the front has been Speedway. If I use off the shelf lengths I have 18, 25, or 36" to pick from. They have a kit that will work and if I get it with the coarse thread banjo bolts (for the rear) I'll be set.
I also remembered I have some Baer bumpsteer tie-rod ends that will come in handy for the the alignment. They were for a Mach1 I no longer own.
With any of the layouts that are behind the steering wheel , you will have to make sure that the gauges clear the master cylinders.
Whenever I do gauge placement, the body is on the chassis and the seat and steering wheel is installed. Then I will move the paper gauges around to determine a nice layout and one that actually makes the gauges visible through the steering wheel. The final layout will end up being a comprimise. Those master cylinders really get in the way.
With any of the layouts that are behind the steering wheel , you will have to make sure that the gauges clear the master cylinders.
Whenever I do gauge placement, the body is on the chassis and the seat and steering wheel is installed. Then I will move the paper gauges around to determine a nice layout and one that actually makes the gauges visible through the steering wheel. The final layout will end up being a comprimise. Those master cylinders really get in the way.
Olli
That's what I did last weekend when I had the body in place. I found some unique remote reservoirs for the brake fluid I had to locate along with fuel pressure regulator on the firewall. I built a cardboard mock up for the AC/htr/defrost unit and it fits just fine. I'm more concerned with the evaporator and compressor.
The gauges will work in the locations shown with some minor positioning and will slide into a 1/4" thick machine turned bezel. A separate bezel will be made for the center gauges and switches. The same guy who made my coil covers for the engine will make them. I had considered using 33/34 bezels but was able to confirm pretty quick that they would not work without being 3/4" thick.
I'm working on a matching handle/latch for the trunk but that's looking like a dummy handle might be fine. That will give me the look I want and still retains some level of security for the trunk contents.
Some of the brake lines may find there way on the car while I'm between "work" projects today.
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Besides his 32 will never look as cool or perform as well as your 33. lol
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