[bill32] Here is link to the PDF files for the
T-5 and Tremic rebuild manuals. Just Click on the download for
the T-5 Rebuild Manual. It includes identification info to check
which transmission you have. This is for Ford applications only.
The t-5/T-5 WC manual is a fairly large file (79 pages including
diagrams), so depending you your connection speed it could take
several minutes to download. It covers both T-5 and T-5 World Class.
It also has manuals for a couple of others.
Can I use a Tremec transmission?
[FFR] "Certainly. The Tremec is
designed as a bolt in for a Mustang and will fit the FFR chassis
with a slight transmission mount modification. In order to fit
a TKO the torque arm bracket that is part of the casting will have
to be shaved off to clear the rear crossmember. Both the 3550
and TKO require a different transmission bellhousing."
Can I use an automatic transmission?
[FFR] "Yes you can, The only true
difference in assembly of the kit, is the location of the
transmission shifter hole. Let us know that you will be using
an automatic, and we'll provide you with a blank transmission tunnel
top and the hole can be cut where desired. Transcooler lines
are custom also; call for details."
Oil Related Issues:
[Rod] Question: "I believe I saw a
message warning AGAINST the use of synthetic oil in the T5
but can no longer find it. It may have been on Mike Mack's list or
[MM] "I've been using magic purple
synthetic ATF in my T5. No problems yet, but only about 1100
miles.(most of them with the input shaft turning 6249 rpm)"
[AC] "I've been using Redline synthetic
MTL in my T-5's for a long time with no problems Rod.
If you read the text on the Redline MTL bottle
again you notice it states "Most gear oils, ATFs, and motor
oils are too slippery for proper synchro engagement- which causes
gear clash when shifting" and "MTL meets gear oil
viscosities SAE 75W, and 80W, or motor oil viscosities SAE 30 or
10W30, the viscosity requirements of Dextron and Mercon ATF, and
provides gear protection which satisfies API categories GL-1, GL-3
and GL-4." That's what my bottles have printed on them.
According to the MTL fluid spec sheets, D4 ATF is also a Redline
fluid which Redline specifies for low temperature operation in
Dextron amd Mercon applications. Redline recommends MTL in high
performance apps and racing for Dextron/Mercon replacement. Redline
phone techs also highly and specifically recommend MTL for
[MC] "somewhere, someplace, I heard the
same thing. I think it had something to do with part of the syncros
needing more friction to work better? I don't know much about how
syncros work or if its even plausible.
[S49] "I've been using synthetics in my
t-5 for a couple thousand miles now and love it, the regular atf
would let the tranny heat up real bad during road racing conditions
causing me to miss gears and ultimately bending valves so you have
to look at the big picture here, how are you going to drive this
 "My 88 stock 5.0 with 310,000
miles has been treated to mobil 1 synthetic ATF in the T5 every
50,000 miles since the car was new! Transmission seal and bushing
were changed at 180,000 miles. Same thing with power steering
fluid..Also have oem pump!"
Will a T56 Fit?
Question: [EE] "Well, since I must
travel across state for more than half the autoX events, I am
looking for a means to provide better highway gas mileage.
A few weeks ago I did a "Tour De
Florida" which consisted of Tampa, Jupiter, Palm Bay, Boca
Raton, Ft Lauderdale back to Tampa....
6 tanks of gas later I made it home. 3.55 rear
gears are definitely not gas friendly. I am pondering the transition
to a T-56 (6 speed) but I'm wondering if it is at all possible? Add
in the swap of the 302 for a 351W and again, will the bell housing
work? The T-56 is presently being used with the 4.6L; I believe???
Need some advice before I start looking for
the T-56. Can it be done without major modification to our chassis?"
Answers and Comments:
[MB] "Dennis Rollinger (DRollinger@PULTE.com)
has a T56 in his solid axle Roadster. You can email him about the
specifics. There are about five other guys on the forum with T56's
as well if I remember correctly. It is about 5 inches longer than a
tremec, so you will end up with a very short driveshaft. Probably
too short. The tranny is also quite expensive. The swap will probably
run you between $2500 and $3000 by the time you are done, unless you
have a good line on a tranny. Call and speak to D & D about it
They have a T56 that will bolt up for about
$2300 that will handle about 450 ft-lb of torque. They also sell a
stronger unit, too.
Here's a good site that talks about a T56 installing
into a Ford:
They also sell a kit to do it.
Personally, I think if you install a nice
351W, you will have the torque (~400 ft-lb) to drop down to a 3.27
or even a 3.08 rear gear and that will give you better mileage. With
a 3.55 I think you might have some traction problems."
[HH] "The T56 would not work on the 4.6L
unless you get a special housing for it. 4.6L comes with T45. Saleen
S351 comes with T56 and the S351 has a windsor too. The new 5.4L (SVT
Roadster R) comes with T56."
[DR] "Mike gave you my E-Mail address
above. There are a few custom things you will need to do. This is
not a simple bolt up to frame deal. I got my T-56 threw D&D they
are just down the road. Really good people to deal with."
[M3] "The stock 'Stang bellhousing is
interchangeable between the 302 and the 351W. You'll need the 302
sized (157 tooth?) flywheel though and the 302 and 351 flywheels are
NOT interchangeable. D&D performance sells the correct 28.2
oz/in flywheel for the 351 for about $200."
Question:  "The stock
5.0/clutch/T5 was used with the kit and a KB supercharger was added
(Rear Wheel 315 HP, 377 FT-LB) along with a 3.73gear and 275-50-15
Nitto drag radials to enhance performance. The combo has been driven
5,000 with no troubles but I have "the need for speed" and
must up the HP. I never rev the engine and dump the clutch or
powershift as it is not necessary, and synthetic fluid is used
inside the T5. How much more power can the T5 handle in my 2,300 lb
joy ride before transmission problems get in the way of driving
What's your experience?"
[SV] "T5Z is rated 330 lbft input torque
(2.95:1 1st gear). The key, as you said is 2,300 lb vehicle and how
it hooks up. The better it hooks, the closer you approach that max
input torque. Sounds to me like your already there. Time for a TKO
or Tremec 3550!"
 "Looks like your TQ figures are
way up compared to your HP. Perhaps mods to shift the power band
(intake ?) upward might give you more HP. You can definitely afford
to trade some TQ for HP without consequence . I still think hooking
a 2300lb car effects the Ford ratings on the T5 as they rate it
against a 3400 lb car. When hooking up, the lighter car should start
moving before your TQ #'s crunch that T5.
Tremec sounds good but hey...why not wait to see if it breaks ?"
[WP] "He's got a Kenne Bell blower,
positive displacement screw type, the torque will be high compared
to a centrifugal (Vortec or Powerdyne). The T5 will last awhile or
scatter itself, Velocity is on his third one with a mild 302, David
Borden has his first one living with 425 RWHP from a Vortec'd 302. I
have 7K miles on my used T5 behind a 377 with about 410 hp."
[JV] "The T-5 isn't going to hold much
more hp. But you need to know weather you have early style T-5 or
late it makes a difference. You can always beef up your T-5 with svo
parts such as a new input, cluster shaft and 2nd gear which are
 "Thanks for the
advice...interestingly enough the 92 T5 has a factory sticker
stating "coverd by a factory warranty, do not service"
giving the impression it may from a lot of bad transmissions but
Ford elected to use it anyways and would cover it under warranty if
it proves defective? The T5 had 60,000 miles when I put it into the
car and its received an additional 5,000 with the KB supercharged
302 (so far, so good!) Maybe at this mileage point the teeth are
fully meshed (worn together) and thus maybe good for an additional
30% more torque? My other theory is the synthetic lube allows the
gears to run cooler and thus the metal is slightly stronger"
I understand that only McLeod scatter shields
fit a FFR without mods. True??? Does Mcleod have a website or phone
[wp] "Mcleod is the one that fits real
easy, get it from Mike Forte"
[mi] "I have the Lakewood in mine and it
dose fit the only thing is don't rivet the tranny tunnel until you
have it in. It may rub a bit but its in there and she can't get out!
If you put a strip of aluminum around the tunnel to extend the rivet
area it would be good. It doesn't need modification but just a
little stretching if that makes sense."
[jf] "I seen a Lakewood on a FFR and it
hung down lower than the frame rails. It looked like you could cut
it off without hurting anything."
[hd] "You have to trim the bottom off of
the Lakewood. Get out that Sawzal and have at it."
 "I have the Mcleod and it is 3/8ths
below the frame rails I will need to grind it a little. Other than
that it fita great"
Question: [wg] "Pro 5 vs B&M
vs Steeda vs Stock. Would like to reduce the 1st to 2nd effort and
throw w/my T5. How do these units stack up-what differences will I
[DW] "Look at the Tri-Ax also. I
installed the Tri-Ax and love it."
[LS] "I just installed a Hurst Billet+
and it feels great! Can't road test for another couple months
though. but I can feel a noticeable difference from 2nd to 3rd."
[DV] "We've tried them all but Tri-Ax.
Where do I get one? We've settled on the Pro-50 and even have them
make an identical shifter to use on our T56's. (I don't know how
those Vipers guys do any serious racing with the oem shifter)
Missing third on the upshift is now almost impossible!"
[KA] "Go with the Tri-Ax. It's awesome. I
love the Blue shift lever. Can't miss a gear. It has two ride heights.
All parts are machined not 'bent'."
[ch] "Put a Pro 5.0 on a new T5. VERY
short throw. Third's a no brainer now. Had an older Hurst(not
billet)-didn't like it. Pro 5.0 gets my vote."
[DW] "I have not tried the Pro 5.0 in the
Roadster. I did drive a Mustang with the Pro 5.0, and drove it again
after he put the Tri-Ax in. The Tri-Ax felt smoother to me, and the
throw seemed to be a little shorter."
[t50] "Do NOT USE AN ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL.
It is not going to gain you any speed as the 5.0 motor spins up very
fast in stock form. I have seen many broken crankshafts with the
aluminum flywheels, strictly for drag racing, which FFR Roadster is not
a car designed to do. Also with the reduced weight of the FFR over
the mustang, drivability problems will result, jerky starts and poor
low speed performance. Hate to stall and jerk around in car show
parking lots and mall drive bys and that is what you are asking for
with that unit. Save your money and spend it somewhere else."
Should I Rebuild it?
Question: [tf] "I have decided to
order a donor pallet from Cypress. Although everyone says how great
their service is and that they guarantee the parts, I am worried
about the 5 speed. I know they are prone to synchro problems. I am
worried about installing the tranny without having driven it only to
find out it is bad. One option I have thought of is to get Cypress
to delete the tranny, and buy a new or rebuilt one. Is this
necessary or am I just being overly worrysome?"
[wd] "I got my tranny from them and tore
it down to inspect. Bad mainshaft so, I needed another one. No
problem for the replacement. Tore it down, installed new bearings,
and it's still working just fine.
It just depends on what you want to do and
what they'll delete the $$ for the tranny."
[DB] "the donor bought at the auction
turned out to be in bad shape. As 2 months of much search has not
got me anywhere, I too am going the pallet route. I talked with
Cypress and another place called All Mustangs in Arizona (FFR gave
me their name). They were able to give me a better price on a lower
mile car than Cypress, and it's closer to both of us."
[al] "If you can find a world class T5
for $175, buy a dozen. Double check the ID number. The three middle
numbers in the ID identify (1352-000-XXX) world class and non-world
class. Look for one of the following... 114-116; 126; 134; 141; 155;
162; 165; 167-169; 174-177; 184; 194-200; 202-205; or 207. The
middle three digits of non-world class will be any other sequence.
This ID is for trannies up to '92. Any digits higher than 208
indicate trannies built after '92."
Adjusting Pro 5.0 shifter
[RT] "Put old shifter into neutral, pull
shifter. Bolt new shifter on, put into 1st gear, tighten stop bolt
until it touches shifter shaft, back off 1 turn, tighten locking
nut. Do the same in 2nd gear for the rear stop bolt."
For the T-5 Transmission: 5.6 pints Dexron II
For the rear end 3.75 pints ALL AXLES USE ESP-M2C154-A HYPOID GEAR
PLUS 118 MIL (4OZ) EST-M2C118-A FRICTION MODIFIER C8AZ-19B546-A
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Posted by richj (Member # 646) on
May 20, 2002, 07:05 PM:
I've discovered a leak in the front seal in my transmission. I
asked Gordon, and he said my best bet was to remove the trans
without also removing the engine. I hate to remove the top
cover on the tunnel, but if I must, I must. Has any one had a
similar problem? If so how did you solve it? I am running
Redline atf, and thought I might get away with just using a
Posted by dpmac (Member # 77) on May
20, 2002, 07:59 PM:
Why not just drop it out the bottom? It is not such a big
deal. I have done it 3 times by my self (don't ask) and would
much rather drop it out the bottom than mess with the cover
and carpet. I believe it was Gordon who outlined the basic
Put car on jack stands
Pull speedo cable
Remove drive shaft
Remove trans mount (jack trans up a bit to remove)
Remove (4) trans bolts
Rotate approx 90 degrres and pull.
Two people would be helpful, but not required.
It really is not a big deal.
Go back to the FFR FAQ