This is topic Foot Box
Fresh air vent systems ---- REVISITED...........
again........... COMPLETE!! in forum Roadster Grandstand
at FFCars Discussion Forums.
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Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 09:03 AM:
There have been good threads on this subject. I cant find them
in the search engine.
I have bought 2.5 inch hose from vintage air. ALSO,I bought
what I call EYEBALL vents for 2.5 inch hose from vintage air.
after getting them, they will be too restrictive of unblowered
air flow. So, I'm gonna use the eyeball vents as part of the
heater system.
Some one had slide vents that were for rv septic systems and
another person had vents for wood chip removal. Can this be
reposted??
THE EYEBALL Vent I ordered was...."2.875 x 2.5 CHRM IN
DASH LOUVER 49053-VUL @ $8.00 each. They look great. Later,
Ill post what id did with them on the heater setup.
Got my body off for a few more days prepping and painting the
skin. Got to finish all this vent stuff up in the next two
weeks.
help.
earl
Posted by Uraeus (Member #
268) on March 14, 2002, 09:11 AM:
I would like more information on this as well. I bought 2.5
inch hose from McMaster-Carr and 3-inch aluminum blast gates
from Grizzly. I used some pvc pipe to join the two. The blast
gates will be installed in the footboxes and I have some cheap
choke cables to control the sliding blast gates. I plan on
making fiber glass plenums to connect the hoses to the brake
vents in front. I have been wondering if enough air will be
forced through the hose to be of value. I am thinking of
mounting 3", 12V muffin fans onto the blast gates, but
that could be done after the car is completed. Anybody tried
this yet?
Posted by Tom Keiser (Member
# 37) on March 14, 2002, 09:20 AM:
I'm using the Grizzly aluminum blast gates with 3"
aluminum duct from Home Depot.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 09:24 AM:
My approach has been to go two stage on this project. Stage
one, while the body is off do the venting and hoses that
cannot easily be accessed with the body back on.
Step two, I plan to hook the unblowered
hoses to the vents at the front and see just how this works.
If I'm happy, ill quit. If I need more air, Ill put in a
blower from West Marine. Will probably do this on the wife's
seat any how. (when you are the passenger, you have more time
to worry about how uncomfortable you are) The blower I
intend to try from WEST MARINE..is a "Attwood,
water-resistant turbo blower. 3" 145CFM 3.1 amp Model#
594002 at $25.99. This blower is a cylinder/fan blower as
opposed to a squirrel cage type. They are very neat in
appearance and have mounting brackets They look like they
could be mounted to the back side of the F panel.
Look up "blowers" in your West
Marine Catalogue. They have a lot of venting supplies.
earl
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 09:26 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Keiser:
I'm using the Grizzly aluminum blast gates
What is the contact info for Grizzly??
Great PHOTOS. How do you intend to get
the vent pipe thru the splash panel??
What are you using to support the hose??
Im assuming you have the vent set up so
that the passenger simply reaches up there and slides it open
or closed.
Earl
[ March 14, 2002: Message edited by:
RoadsterEarl ]
Posted by Uraeus (Member #
268) on March 14, 2002, 09:28 AM:
Tom; How is your air movement?
Posted by Uraeus (Member #
268) on March 14, 2002, 09:44 AM:
RoadsterEarl; Here is a link to Grizzly's website.
http://www.grizzly.com/
Posted by Stu Spencer (Member
# 413) on March 14, 2002, 10:10 AM:
you can get inline blowers at your local boat shop. JC
Whitless also sells one: http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=56297&BQ=jcw2
Some have tried 'muffin' fans (like on
computer power supplies) but I don't know the success rate.
Don Newman, care to comment on your fan set-up?
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 10:13 AM:
Just ordered 2 of the 3 inch plastic gate vents
Thanks for the grizzley info.
earl
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 10:22 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by Stu Spencer:
you can get inline blowers at your local boat shop.
JC Whitless also sells one:
The West Marine unit looks just about like the whitney unit.
But it costs 25.99 vs 65$ But it has no switch with it. There
is also a 19.99$ unit but I've seen no photo yet.
Product WM Model # MFG # Price In Stock?
QTY
Blower IN Line 3'' 1896919 140 $19.99 YES
Blower, Turbo Bilge 3IN 594002 1733-4 $25.99 YES
Blower, Turbo Bilge 4IN 594010 1743-4 $28.99 YES
Blower IN Line 4'' 1896950 240 $21.99 YES
earl
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 14, 2002, 11:43 AM:
Just ordered one of the inline blowers from West Marine (WM#
594002) it was only 25.99 for a 3 inch 145 CFM inline blower.
with tax and shipping, total about 33.50.
ONE MORE POINT, after talking to
Customer service at WEST, the Rule Blower (WM# 1896910) is
only 19.99 on the internet. Looks like a direct sub for the
one I bought.
If this unit does all it claims, 145 CFM,
it will replace the air in my foot box every 2-3
seconds.
I plan to mount it on the F panel and
let it extend thru the splash guard. These units are
waterproof. Photos LATER. Just got the one for my wife.
Also going to experiment with using this
blower as a HEATER SUPERCHARGER. I could use MORE HEAT. If it
works, ill get another one.
Earl
Posted by Tom Keiser (Member
# 37) on March 14, 2002, 12:10 PM:
Sorry for the delay, I had to go see one of those pesky
customers who like to interrupt My Forum time. As far as
getting the vent through the splash panel, I'm just going to
trim the panel around it. Support is via clamps made from
bright galvanized strapping that comes in a roll from the
plumbing department at the hardware store and are attached
with tek screws to the 3/4" tube. You are correct about
opening the vents, the blast gates have a steel slide door
with a 90 degree bend to grab it by and a thumb screw to hold
it in any position. As far as air movement goes, I have not
gone fast enough to tell, the picture of the car was taken
last weekend. I'm hoping that the open cockpit is going to
help draw air through the tubes. Tom
Posted by DON (Member # 554)
on March 14, 2002, 11:12 PM:
I had a sheet metal shop make two rectangular boxes with a
hole/sleeve on the back. I attached them to the brake vents
buy cutting two slots where the nose body bolts on. You loosen
these bolts up and slide(jam) the 'boot' in then retighten the
bolts. It works great. I also used the aluminum dryer vent
hose. It not only is flexible and shiny but it can lengthen
and shorten as desired. The hose is a little larger in dia.
than the tube sticking out the vent box but just snip into it
about an inch then cinch down with large hose clamps. I routed
the hose into the front of the foot box. There I used the
'wood chip valve' with a heavy duty choke cable setup. To make
the cable work I had to cut a 2" piece of 11/2" x
11/2" alum angle and rivet it to the foot box end. This
is where you attach the clamp that holds the cable outer
sleeve from moving. Iam planning to add the computer fans
shortly.( been busy with 2 major car shows). Also I hole sawed
the wheel splash guard about an inch from the top. This allows
the rubber bulb some room. It is a very simple and easy to
install system. If any of the accessory mfg. people are
interested I will send them drawings and all info to complete
so they can add it to their catalogue. Hope this helps,
Don
Posted by ToddButtrick
(Member # 115) on March 15, 2002, 06:12 AM:
I went the economy route. I found both the hose and mounts at
WalMart. They are in the automotive section in the RV
equipment isle. The pieces are sewer drain components for RVs.
Two 45 deg couplers and 20 feet of 3" line. About $30
bucks.
Posted by TNRoadster (Member #
552) on March 17, 2002, 10:05 PM:
Todd,
What did you use to connect the hose to
the front of the car? Anything that fit the shape of the brake
cooling holes?
Does any of our cottage producers (Mike,
Russ) making this part?
Posted by ToddButtrick
(Member # 115) on March 18, 2002, 05:19 AM:
TNRoadster,
For now I'm just going to hang them in
front of the inlets. If you look, you can see that I attached
an aluminum bracket between the upper and lower 3/4 radiator
frame. I then riveted up a large hose clamp to secure the
3" hose. I'm thinking to form an aluminum scoop but the
body is not here.
[ March 18, 2002: Message edited by:
ToddButtrick ]
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 18, 2002, 07:56 AM:
Is there anyone that has a vent system like we are working on
already installed?? Im curious as to the results, are you
happy?? What would you do differently?
earl
Posted by DRUMMERMIKE (Member
# 455) on March 19, 2002, 09:51 PM:
Roadster RESTORERS CARRIES MOLDED FRESH AIR INLETS IN THEIR
ON-LINE CATALOGUE FOR $99.00 PER PAIR. HAS ANYONE TRIED USING
THESE? DRUMMERMIKE
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on March 20, 2002, 08:49 AM:
I got my BLOWER in from West Marine yesterday. Hooked her up
to the car battery. That thing will blow the chrome off a trailer
hitch at 200 yards.
It claims to put out 140 CFM with a 3 ft
3" hose with one 90 degree bend in the hose and a louver
grill over the end of the hose. THAT'S A LOT OF AIR.
With a 5" hose, No grill and the
supercharging effect of the car going down the road, this
thing should create a Hurricane in My wife's Foot box..
Cant wait to get it mounted, the body
back on and GET BACK ON THE ROAD..
Ill post photos when I get them.
earl
Posted by MikeBraddock
(Member # 627) on March 20, 2002, 09:41 PM:
Earl,
You must be experiencing serious
withdrawal symptoms . It's going on what...three weeks now
you've had the primered beauty torn down ? Nice thread on
fresh air vents. And quite timely for our build, too
Thanks Earl.
Mike
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 03, 2002, 07:51 AM:
I just posted several photos of my Foot box vent system to: http://community.webshots.com/album/34761577VXVDLq
The Major components of the system are:
Plastic 3" blast gates from Grizzley at 5$
3" waterproof blower from west marine at $25
3" hose, 14 ft at 1.50$ from vintage air.
little black clamps to retain the GE wrap ties that hold the
hose in place.
I cut the holes in the alum panel with a 3.5 inch hole saw.
Drilled 4 holes in the corners of the blast gate and screwed
the blastgates to the foot box, below the hole. a 3" saw
will work. Silicone the opening around the part that sticks
thru.
I riveted the little clamps down the 3/4 square tubing about
every 6 or so inches to support the GE ties.
Wired it up and a Category 3 Hurricane occurred in the foot
box.
Earl
Posted by Go Hard or Go Home
(Member # 35) on April 03, 2002, 10:45 AM:
Earl,
Looks good (I hope this makes it into the FAQ). With the
blower, do you need to run the hose to the front openings or
can they stop short? I was planning on fab'ing a brake cooling
duct to the openings.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 03, 2002, 12:05 PM:
Have not got to that fabricated duct cover just yet. Trying to
get everything done that has to be done with the body off. So
far, im just ending very close to those ducts. Hoping to get
good fresh, notpreheated air.
Earl
Posted by CaptAl (Member #
557) on April 03, 2002, 12:52 PM:
RoadsterEarl,
Here's a Marine Grade, 3" in-line Blower from BoatUs for
$23.99.
Even comes with a 3 Year Warantee.
http://www.boatus-store.com/browse/item.asp?CFSR=1&IID=16351
Capt Al
Posted by Bill32 (Member #
18) on April 03, 2002, 01:16 PM:
Maybe I am not understanding something. But, in looking at the
3 to 4 inch lines people are running from the grill to the
vent, it looks like you will have a category 5 hurricane
inside the footbox at highway speeds. Seems like an 1.5 inch
line would be plenty????
Comments please
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 03, 2002, 01:39 PM:
You can always close the vent off, or partially close it.
Unless you have a fairly high pressure situation, my gut feel
is you need at least a 2.5 inch hose.
No one has ever done what you suggest and reported back. Now
you have your assignment .
Earl
Posted by Uraeus (Member #
268) on April 03, 2002, 02:31 PM:
In my Sport Car Graphic magazine from 1965, the magazine that
made me love Roadsters as a kid and led me here nearly forty
years later, there are photos of the fresh air vent in the
street roadster and the brake vents in the race roadster. It
appears from the photo that the originals were using at least
2-inch hose. The race version also had the fresh air line, but
it was routed into the engine compartment in front of the
radiator since the brake vent openings were used by the
fiberglass brake vents.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 03, 2002, 02:48 PM:
quote:
Originally posted by CaptAl:
RoadsterEarl,
Here's a Marine Grade, 3" in-line Blower from BoatUs
for $23.99.
http://www.boatus-store.com/browse/item.asp?CFSR=1&IID=16351
Capt Al
This unit even claims to move more air. 170
vs 140 CFM. WOW.
earl
Posted by pete gibbs (Member
# 201) on April 05, 2002, 10:08 AM:
Finish Line has a new air vent kit. See page 29 of their
catalogue.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 05, 2002, 10:41 AM:
SEVERAL new photos at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/34761577VXVDLq
Earl
Posted by Mike Mondie (Member
# 158) on April 05, 2002, 11:20 AM:
I've haven't even had a ride in a Roadster yet so please excuse
my ignorance, why is fresh air needed?
Mike
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 05, 2002, 11:36 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Mondie:
I've haven't even had a ride in a Roadster yet so
please excuse my ignorance, why is fresh air needed?
Mike
In stop and go traffic, it can get Awfully
hot down around the toosies. (the ORIGINAL Roadsters had it)
this is just for creature comforts. (hope it helps the spouse
also)
earl
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on April 06, 2002, 06:44 PM:
OK, I'm finally about to do this; it's gonna be warm here
soon. I found an article that inspired me--check it out:
http://www.gmcmotorhome.com/tech/vents/
I plan to mount 3" blast gates on the vertical aluminum
on each side of the radiator, an idea borrowed from the
"original" Roadsters, using a remote push-pull knob in
the cockpit to operate it. Aircraft Spruce has these, and they
have an insert for the knob that is labeled "CABIN
VENTILATOR"--how cool is that?
Then 3" duct to the footboxes, as you guys have done. I
think that there should be enough positive air pressure in
front of the radiator to work, especially if I put on a shroud
piece to cover the hole above the radiator. I've ordered a fan
from the boat place, just in case.
BTW, Grizzly is backordered on 3" blastgates, finally
found some at Mcmaster-Carr (1788K11, $12.49)
Push-pull cable (5 foot) is p/n 05-14200, $13.75, insert is
p/n 05-14450, $0.35 at Aircraft Spruce. BTW, they now have a
racecar catalog, be sure to order one (free).
I'll take a few pics as I do this, and post them sometime.
Forrest
Posted by TNRoadster (Member #
552) on April 06, 2002, 11:21 PM:
Mike, the cars can be sweltering hot with the engine sitting 6
inches from the human body and no ventilation by the affected
extremities. In the summer in Sacramento (100+ degrees), I
always pack a lot of water for longer trips.
Posted by Mike Mondie (Member
# 158) on April 07, 2002, 01:06 AM:
I wonder if it will do me anygood. In Phoenix when it hits 115
for months on end any air feels like an blow dryer. When I had
my motorcycle the worst thing you could do if you wore a
helmet was to open the visor, it was better to keep close and
let you brain cook than open and have your eyes turn to
crystals
Mike
Posted by Scott L. (Member #
146) on April 08, 2002, 12:12 PM:
OOOPPS....thanks Earl, this is exactly the info I was looking
for...
Scott
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on April 20, 2002, 05:14 PM:
Well, the driver's side vent is installed. Pics available at: http://members5.clubphoto.com/forrest370349/747479/guest.phtml
The blast gate needs to be trimmed off where it sticks into
the radiator opening, or maybe I will clamp a bug-filter
screen over it. Also will replace the blastgate screws with SS
buttonheads. The blastgate slides easily via the knob, mounted
in brace at left end of firewall support 2x2. The hole above
the knob is where the toggle switch for the blower resides
(not installed at time of photo).
It seems to flow air OK without the fan on, blows a lot with
fan on. I will have to get a Russ Thompson radiator shoroud to
trap air in front of the radiator which should increase vent
flow with the fan off.
I did not use the 34 cent "cabin vent" label, as it
turned out to be just a stick-on label, not an insert like I
expected. The control wire connects to the blastgate slider
with a pin-vise like connector, Aircraft Spruce part #
05-16000, $9.85. Too expensive, so I only bought one to try,
but makes it very easy to attach the wire, and gives some
adjustment, so I probably will buy another to do the passenger
side. Passenger side will probably go into the top of the
footbox but without a fan.
Forrest
Posted by Roadster54 (Member #
197) on April 21, 2002, 09:01 AM:
I recently visited a shop in Ohio, just outside of Toledo -
MOORE PERFORMANCE. The owner/operator, Matt, is now a FFR
dealer and has come up with and is putting together some
"aftermarket kits". I know he has made a custom fit
air piece to go behind the brake cooling ducts and sells the
kit with hose, wire screen, trap door apparatus & vent
knobs to operate. This guy does top notch work - drag racers,
street rods, chassis fab, roll cages, welding, custom
suspensions, rear end narrowing - he can sell you a kit and
save you the shipping/crating charges from Maine or build you
a turn key. He's not currently on the internet but you can
reach him at 419 898-0059.
DRUMMERMIKE - he's the guy that's doing my axle narrowing -
pick it up next week!
Greg
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on April 22, 2002, 08:51 AM:
Forrest. Great photos.
rode shotgun for a few miles saturday. My foot box vent works
pretty dang good going down the road already, and they are not
finished. I have not wired the moter up yet. AND, i have not
tied the front end of the hose to the brake vents yet either.
but, unequal pressures pass a lot of air at 70 mph.
earl
Hope to finish every thing up this week.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on May 29, 2002, 02:08 PM:
Its about HOT WEATHER, Thought Id bring this to the top.
AGAIN. Its been a very good thread
earl
Posted by GATOR427SC (Member
# 321) on May 30, 2002, 10:23 AM:
Todd,
The picture of the driver's side hose looks like it will
interfere with the splash guard. Will there be room to move it
up? Anyone else route the hoses so as not to interfere with
the splash guards?
Chris
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on May 30, 2002, 10:30 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by GATOR427SC:
Todd,
The picture of the driver's side hose looks like it will
interfere with the splash guard. Will there be room to move
it up? Anyone else route the hoses so as not to interfere
with the splash guards?
Chris
I cut a hole in the splash guard, Up at the
top with a 4 inch hole say. Put about a foot of the Bulb Trim
that FFR supplys around the hole. Sealled it Pretty good. and
the Aluminum cant cut the hose.
earl
Posted by ShelbyLuva (Member
# 955) on June 25, 2002, 11:26 AM:
Where do I buy the blast gates?
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on June 25, 2002, 11:35 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by ShelbyLuva:
Where do I buy the blast gates?
Here is a link to Grizzly's website.
http://www.grizzly.com/
I used the 3 inch plastic units. Cheaper and they work just
fine.
I mounted them INSIDE the foot box with just the flange
sticking thru. I have run a choke cable to the one on the
drivers side........so i dont have to stand on my head to open
and close it
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on July 01, 2002, 11:20 AM:
Just finished posting a half dozen more photos to my photo
album on the foot box vents: http://community.webshots.com/album/34761577VXVDLq
There are 27 photos of My version of the vent system.
I have Over 4000 miles on these vents and THEY WORK GREAT.
Blowers help a lot, even at 70 mph. The blowers also make the
car bearable in stop and go 90 degree driving. I normally do
not run the blowers just driving down the road, they pull a
lot of current, the amount of air flowing at hwy speeds is
VERY ADEQUATE, and I dont want to wear them out.
Utilized 3 inch tubing from vintage air. 3 inch blowers from
West marine. 3 inch plastic gate valves from grizzley, Home
made boxes at brake vents. Choke cables from advance auto. THE
model numbers for everything is in earlier posts to this
thread.
COSTS estimates.
Hose $20
Gate valves 2 x $5 = 10
Blowers 2 x 30 =60
choke cables 2 x $6 = 12
JUST ABOUT 100 bucks. Best 100 bucks ive spent.
REMEMBER TO CHINK all your cracks ALSO. Makes the vent and the
heater work MUCH BETTER>
Have fun.
earl
Posted by Ozona (Member #
282) on July 01, 2002, 01:36 PM:
The aluminum blast gates are on sale through 9/6 at Grizzly.
Save a whole $2.00. ![[Big Grin]](../ubb/biggrin.gif)
Ozona
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on July 24, 2002, 04:39 PM:
ttt
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on July 24, 2002, 05:19 PM:
I just found a source for fiberglass brake duct intakes, about
$100/pair. I have just added these (well, actually, just
driver side so far) to mine, and they work well. They're made
from molds from the original 427 street cars, and require
minor trimming only to fit nicely around the inside edge of
the brake intakes. The outlet is for 3" hose.
He also makes brake scoops, front and rear, for 427 Roadsters,
but they don't fit the FFR: in front they hit the steering
tie-rods, in back they hit the lower control arms (IRS cars,
anyway). Here's a pic of all three.
He's not really interested in selling them mail order, just
too much hassle. But if there is a demand, I can get him to
make some more and I can ship them to people, $100 + shipping
cost. This includes some expanded aluminum material for intake
screens. If anybody local wants them, feel free to email me
and I will put you in touch direct.
Forrest
Posted by FFR2781 (Member #
479) on July 25, 2002, 08:08 PM:
Forrest, I have my computer mounted on the Passenger footbox
top because I have MKII footbox bars. Do you think I could
relocate the passenger blastgate to the angled side piece as
you did on the driver's side?
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on July 25, 2002, 10:10 PM:
That Computer is not as big as the top of your foot box, is
it??
All you need is a little over 3 inches some place on the top.
Or, you could mount it on the front. However if your date is
wearing a dress, it might blow over her head. Like My Old
CORVAIR would do. Not entirely a bad thing.
earl
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on July 26, 2002, 09:21 AM:
FFR2781,
No personal experience on the passenger side (yet), but I
think that it might be possible to put it on the angle space.
If the body is already on, though, I think Earl's suggestion
would be a lot easier.
Forrest
Posted by AmarilloMike
(Member # 1058) on July 27, 2002, 05:08 PM:
Mike Mondie
"I wonder if it will do me anygood. In Phoenix when it
hits 115 for months on end any air feels like an blow dryer.
When I had my motorcycle the worst thing you could do if you
wore a helmet was to open the visor, it was better to keep
close and let you brain cook than open and have your eyes turn
to crystals"
I live in Amarillo - Have been thinking about a an evaporative
cooler setup. Beechcraft used to put them on Bonanza Airplane.
It wouldn't be much good in Houston or South Carolina, but I
think it would work in Arizona, Albuquerque, and Amarillo. You
could put a box with water inline with the air hose, and
either bubble the hot air through it or wick/splash air onto a
media and then onto the cockpit outlet. I think the fan is a
must. This may just be a "low blood sugar" idea.
Mike
Posted by Advil (Member #
403) on August 07, 2002, 12:10 AM:
Ok, somebody said that they put their heater water shut off
valve on one of the push pull cables.
This is a REALLY good idea, since I could then use the heater
blower on a Tristate heater for cool air into the footboxes by
simply leaving the water turned off to the heater. The heater
air intake is on the cabin side of my firewall.
The question:
What type of ball valve for the water on/off would I need for
that cable to be able to actuate it? Tricky...
Posted by Satanpez (Member #
591) on August 07, 2002, 12:52 AM:
Advil:
There were a bunch of OEM setups that were like that. God if I
can remember now. (mid 60's F-150?)
There are also vacuum operated switches. I have one in my
garage that came with my Vintage Air heater.
Vintage Air and many of the other companies may have a cable
operated one.
I'm not sure even cable operated is necessary. I remember a
bunch of the Falcon folk using ones that (I assume) were ball
valves. Turn it in the engine compartment. Turning off that
valve isn't something you necessarily do often.
-steve in nj-
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on August 07, 2002, 09:22 AM:
My 1990 4-cylinder Toyota pickup has a wire-operated valve
that would work. It's a quarter-turn ballvalve sort of thing,
and has been reliable for 12 years.
My first Vintage-Aire vacuum solenoid valve failed: it was
replaced under warranty by VA, but if it quits again, I'm
going to replace it with a Toyota valve.
Forrest
Posted by mn12 (Member # 774)
on August 07, 2002, 10:51 AM:
Toyota does seem common. My wifes old 89 corolla had it as
well
Posted by Bob Lennon (Member
# 72) on August 07, 2002, 10:59 AM:
You guys are really good at making a system as complicated as
possible. My ventilation is a 2 inch stainless exhaust pipe
running straight back from the top of the front opening
directly to the front of the footbox. NO turns, No twists, No
bends. Simple.
It requires only a modification of the "F" aluminum.
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on August 07, 2002, 10:59 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by forrest1:
My 1990 4-cylinder Toyota pickup has a wire-operated
valve that would work. It's a quarter-turn ballvalve sort of
thing, and has been reliable for 12 years.
Forrest
How big is this thing??
earl
Posted by mn12 (Member # 774)
on August 07, 2002, 11:13 AM:
the one on the corolla was maybe 2" deep by 1"
across the top
Posted by mn12 (Member # 774)
on August 07, 2002, 11:19 AM:
Here is a picture of the kind on my E-type, very similar to
the toyota but not as reliable
Posted by RoadsterEarl (Member #
8) on August 07, 2002, 11:42 AM:
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Lennon:
You guys are really good at making a system as
complicated as possible. My ventilation is a 2 inch
stainless exhaust pipe running straight back from the top of
the front opening directly to the front of the footbox. NO
turns, No twists, No bends. Simple.
It requires only a modification of the "F"
aluminum.
Got any photos of your vent?? How do you
turn it off, when you dont want it??
I THINK these other guys have gotten off to heater controls.
But, thats ok also. its all inter-related
BTW, I got my water flow cut off from napa. A very simple
valve that is controlled by a push/pull cable.
earl
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on August 07, 2002, 12:08 PM:
Earl,
The Toyota valve is pretty small, similar in size to the VA
valve, with hose inlets each end. I'll take a picture when I
get home from work for you.
This is a 2.4liter 4 cyl, EFI motor, 2WD pickup. Autozone part
# is 74620, $45 each
Forrest
Posted by Bob Lennon (Member
# 72) on August 07, 2002, 04:22 PM:
Earl, and others.
If you look under the u-joint on my steering shaft, you can
see part of the pipe which is my fresh air duct.
I carefully cut a flange into the front of the foot box, but
were I to do it again I would have bought one from
aircraftspruce.
To shut it off in the winter, I made a very simple guillatine
type sliding door which is lined with felt as a gasket. it is
connected to a mustang heater control switch and cable which I
can easily reach hidden under my dash.
It's difficult to describe but really simple when you see it. 
Posted by DRUMMERMIKE (Member
# 455) on August 07, 2002, 05:34 PM:
HAS ANYONE TRIED USING THE BRAKE VENT INLETS OFFERRED BY Roadster
RESTORERS? I'M CURIOUS BECAUSE I BOUGHT A CONVERTIBLE TOP FROM
THEM AND WAS TOLD IT WOULD FIT A FFR...NOT!!! HAD TO SELL IT
OUTRIGHT CAUSE I BOUGHT IT IN WHITE AND CR WOULD'NT TAKE IT
BACK. THANX, DRUMMERMIKE ![[white]](../ubb/graemlins/white.gif)
Posted by forrest1 (Member #
196) on August 07, 2002, 07:16 PM:
DrummerMike,
The Roadster Restorers intakes are the same as those pictured
above in my post. They require a little trimming of the edge
to fit the FFR.
Earl,
Photos of the Toyota Pickup heater control valve: it's 12
years old with 125,000 miles on it:
Forrest
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