|Electrical Issues -
I went to this setup as it eliminated all the
extra wiring and modules associated with Ford ignition systems.
It has 55,000 volts and uses a one wire style GM distributor with
built in coil. It is HEI ignition as found in GM and parts are
available at any parts store in case of need on the road. Any other
style, ie MSD or ACCEL, will require you to find a high performance
shop or wait on side of road. They set the distributor up to
your engine specs and send it out as slick as a whistle. The
only way to go for a clean engine compartment. http://www.performancedistributors.com
Home made fix for checking the battery.
Went down to local furnace shop and they gave me some excess
aluminum from gutter making machine. Cut six pieces to lengths
and pop riveted them around hole cut out of floor in trunk. By
sandwiching them around the hole and overhanging the opening I was
able to slide in the piece cut out of floor and make a simple cover
over battery for service and inspection. E-mail me for a diagram and
size or opening and other data. firstname.lastname@example.org
4.6L Trouble Shooting:
Question: [RP] "I just put a 1997
Mustang 4.6 motor into my car. The car is a five speed. The motor
runs for three seconds and turns off. The fuel pump is OK and does
not turn off and the pressure is good. It is a external pump. The
coils are loosing electrical power And there are no bad codes via
the engine computer analyzer. Any ideas? I can use the help."
[RF] "My bet is it's the computer
[ST] "I had this problem on a different
vehicle when I installed a Painless wiring kit. Problem was cured
when I disconnected the tachometer wire at the coil. (S&W
gages). Don't know if this applies to your set-up but might be worth
[MR] "Could it be the factory anti theft
system? I remember a guy who installed a DOHC 4.6 Roadster in his and
he said it took two weeks and finally a trip to the dealer to
"decode" the alarm electronics."
[WP] "Mike Langon has a Roadster motor in
his and can probably answer the alarm question his email is
[D55] "I don't know if this helps much,
but I bought a used 97 Expedition w/ 4.6 engine. that the owner had
lost one set of keys. Not thinking about it, I went to the local
hardware store and just had a new $1.50 key cut. I had the exact
same experience you're having. The car would start for about 3
seconds and die. If I tried to start again nothing would happen
until I put switch back to "lock", then same thing would
happen. Original key worked fine. I then realized the car had a
anti-theft set up. Ended up having to get a $25 chipped key cut,
then go through a process that allows the puter to add the new key
to its menu.
I know I'm talking about an Expedition and
you're talking about a Mustang, but they're both Fords, both 97s and
both 4.6s. It would seem that the same concept for anti-theft would
be carried throughout the line. Sounds to me that you need to get
the anti-theft disabled and you'll be all set."
[BS] "You need to use the Ford supplied
"chip" ket sensor, or have your computer module
deprogrammed/replaced....In 1997, Ford started using a new
"anti theft" system which included placing a small chip in
to the handle of the key, this in turn get "read" every
time you go to start the car. if the chip is missing, or you have
used an aftermarket ignition switch, your going to have to have Ford
trouble shoot a way to get around the requirement, as it is
programmed in to the memory module in your dash pack."
[TF] "Just a thought, I know they can put
an auto-start on the 4.6, so there has to be a way to wire around
it. I did it all the time on GM VATS systems, just added a resistor
across the sensor wires, but haven't messed with Fords. Anyone know
a good auto-alarm installer, he should know."
[RP] "All the info I'm getting is good,
and I think the alarm issue is on the right track. The only
remaining question I have is that I did not use the instrument
wiring harness only the motor harness. Does anybody know how or who
can deprogram the alarm phase of the computer? Yes I did use a after
market ignition system."
[RF] "Ed Marsh at Winsor-Fox would know
how to do it."
[ML] "THE SAME THING IS WHAT HAPPENED TO
ME. I RAN THE PATS SYSTEM IN THE CAR. HAD TO GET BORROW A COMPUTER
FROM A DEALER AND PROGRAMMED THE PATS CHIP. THIS WAS TWO YEARS AGO.
IM SURE SOME ONE KNOWS HOW. TRY THIS PLACE WWW.SPEEDBRAIN.COM
[WP] "Passive Anti Theft
[ML] "YOU ARE GOING TO BY PASS THE SYSTEM
SOMEHOW. I HAVE THE FORD WIRING DIAGRAM ."
[RP] "Thanks to everyone's help we now
know that we have to get around the P.A.T.S. system in the computer.
I do not have the dash wiring harness so I do not have the dash
P.A.T.S module. Does anybody know how to deprogram the computer? Or
if it can even by done. I have contacted the local Ford dealer and
Fox-Windsor but have not heard from them Yet."
[ML] "I HAVE A FRIEND WHO IS AN AUTO
INSURANCE FRAUD INVESTIGATOR. HE TOOK A COURSE ON THE PATS SYSTEM . ORIGINALLY
HE AND HIS BOSS TOLD ME TO LEAVE THE SYSTEM IN PLACE. BUT ITS BEEN
TWO YEARS NOW IM SURE YOU CAN BY PASS IT SOMEHOW. ILL TALK TO HIM
TOMORROW. YOU SAID YOU HAVE THE WIRING DIAGRAM. DOES IT SHOW THE
[WP] "The system in that car is based on
a transponder key that bounces a signal back to the transceiver
module and communicates to the EEC-V via a bus cable."
Where can you buy a quality in-dash ignition
[PM] Try Finishline. That's where I got mine and
I am happy with it. They are Lucas; if you can get past the name, I
think they are high quality.
[MC] "Check out your local NAPA dealer.
Someone noted in the past about having starter problems because
their starter switch was not grounded (EFI). The NAPA switch has a
ECH KS6592 $26.48"
[jb] "Ron Francis Wire Works( http://www.wire-works.com
)sells a nice one for $25.00
I took a tip from Alain VanHollebeck and made
a bracket for the Mustang switch. If you are using the stock harness
it makes life a lot easier and you know it's going to work."
[pm] "used a 78 ford pickup switch....got
the switch new...the bezel and wiring came from one of my many
[BS] "This is all stock Ford items, the
dash bezel looks like a 64-66 Ford unit, I would assume since the
keys are of the early variety, that this is the case, so parts and
prices are listed below........
Ignition cylinder with two keys $7.95
Ignition Switch assembly $11.95
Ignition Switch bezel $7.95
64-66 Ignition Switch Spacer(may or may not be needed) $5.95
Figure another $10.00 in misc wires and plugs, and your good to go.
Total cost $43.88."
What electrical tape to use?
[wd] "You may want to try an electrical
supply house. I got mine from one of our vendors who stop by. It's a
vinyl type tape with a self stick-to-itself quality. I just tear how
much I want off the roll, peel the backing and then
streeeeettttccccccchhhhh the tape so it can get all it's neat
chemistry going and then just wrap up the wiring. When finishing
ends, it can't be beat. No loose ends either."
[sp] "Eastwood sells it, I haven't tried
it but it is just what you described, no adhesive, stretchy stuff."
 "3M makes a couple different
grades of electrical tape. The only one you should consider using is
the Super 88. It's about $4-$5 a roll but worth it. Little tough to
[MR] "I too have observed all electrical
tape, 3m included, will pretty quickly come undone - especially with
a little weather on it. So there does not seem to be a good
automotive application for it. I've also used the self amalgamating
tape. It works great initially, but may not be that tough over
time.(probably depends on compound and manufacturer) I now prefer to
wrap the wires with the Eastwood obtained non-stick harness wrapping
tape and then use nothing to attach the cover loom, or if absolutely
necessary use black duct tape torn lengthwise to the needed width.
Use heat shrink on all soldered connections."
Question: "Seems so many
engines use aftermarket ignitions and I wonder why. I see the MSD
red box gives an adjustable rev limiter, but what are the advantages
of going with aftermarket distributors and boxes ? Does the stock
set up have a built in rev limiter?"
[rd] "the stock set up works fine and the
factory computer has a rev. limit and a speed limit set in it. If
you want more performance the MSD gives a longer spark duration
which burns the fuel better which makes more HP. Some MSD's have rev
limiters, adjustable timing and timing retard which help if you get
into a high HP engine. If your looking for a better ignition the MSD
is what I have in my super gas Mustang and it never has given me any
[t5] "there is no rev limiter in the
ignition system from ford. The hydraulic roller motor just wont rev
over about 6200 rpm without valve float. Also there is NO speed
limiter in there either. That is a dumb rumor going around too. I
have been racing mustangs since 1986 when the first SEFI came out.
The factory ignition is fine for all uses. All that trick stuff is
just a wallet drainer!!"
[wg] "Rumor on the streets-TFI module may
go under national recall status-did you save those papers on your
donor? My shop has seen several failures-from Tempos to
Mustangs-Symptoms-Car Quits while just driving along-will restart
shortly afterwards-has to do w/expansion and contraction of the
internal electronics and its proximity to the heat of the engine at
[RT] "I was driving along the other day
near my house when mine died, as I was pulling over to the side of
the road it started, died again. I pop the hood and found nothing
wrong, had some loose stuff in the trunk that I thought might have
bumped my battery kill switch key but eliminated that idea later
with a test. It started right up again within a few min. Could this
be a TFI problem?"
[CH] "If you need to replace yours, don't
buy it from Ford. My Ford dealer wanted $99+. I bought it(Borg
Warner) from a parts store(Part of the Keystone Auto Stores chain)
for $55. Have since seen the HP Holley version in Summit catalog for
$59.95(page 277 December catalog-HLY-891-105). A new MSD or Accel
Billet distributor comes with their HP version FWIW."
Question: [ol] "I am trying to find a
disconnect switch (main power, big handle, mount on rear wall
between the seats) with a removable lever. I have found disconnects
but no removable lever. I have tried; Summit, Jegs, and
RaceSearch.com and did searches at the sites.
I thought that I saw one from Moroso once?"
[pi] "Go to a marine supply house
catalogue or site, such as West Marine. There they are called
battery selector switches. You should be able to find what you want.
Removable handles, keyed, multiple bank, etc."
[Bi] "FFR has one as an option...you
might check their website, factoryfiveracing.com"
[ME] "got mine at Advance Auto
[BA] "Finishline has a nice Lucas battery
cut-off switch with big red removable flag type key. Works for
[EE] "Discount Auto has a battery cut-off
switch with removable key for $12.00"
 "I used a "Batter Cut Off
Switch" from "Northern Tool&Equipment"
1 800 556 7885
The switch part number is 96755 and cost $9.99.
I used a 1/2" conduit (7/8" dia.) draw though punch to
make the hole, and two #10 screws to lock it down right to the alum.
It is solid, it comes with two large removable red keys and
3/8" terminal lugs"
Question: [ru] "Is simply using
the donor harness is better or worse then an aftermarket harness.
Apparently there are several sources including Ford Racing who puts
out wiring harnesses for 5.0L EFI vehicles seemingly ideal for kit
cars. Has anyone used Ford Racing's Main Harness and/or Engine
Harness and Controls Package? The main harness is around $200 and
the engine harness and controls package is around $150. Is this
worth the cost in saving time and trouble or an unnecessary
[WP] "It works well, get you kit as a
carb kit and the painless harness comes with it. You hook one wire
to the battery, one to the ign circuit and one to the start and
[Avl] "I just got the entire front
harness out of my donor today, so I think I know how I'd do it
First, I'd get a palleted donor.
Getting the harness out requires disassembling most of the car. This
is not an exaggeration. So if you just wanted to mess with the
engine and drivetrain, don't get a donor where you have to take the
It's an incredible mess. I realized
halfway through removing it, that I was going to send it out to be
cut down. Period.
You could go the route of the
aftermarket EFI harness, but after working with this mess I want
something that pluggs in and works the first time. The $350 to get
it cut down seems like the best money spent so far on this project.
Go back to the FFR FAQ