|Brakes - Emergency
Brakes - Parking Brake
Question: [dp] "When attempting to
install my E Brake cables the drivers side comes up too short. I am
installing per manual, have seen other installs and there is no
doubt the cable sheath is short about 2 inches or so. It will not
reach the end holder on the trans wall 3/4 tube. I have plenty of
actual cable available, I just cant get the sheath with clip it to
reach the holder. I assume I need to obtain a longer cable. Does
anyone know the part number or year/description to get the correct
length? I will bring my old one to the parts store but these guys
had a real hard time giving me a shorter serp belt, they will just
shit if I need a longer brake cable! If its not in the computer they
get all glassy eyed and confused.
I have performed a search and came away with
good brake cable info for rear disks or IRS but I am using 1989
donor stock 8.8 rear.
[ME] "I also used an 89 donor, and
thought the cable was too short. I did however find a way to make it
fit. Sorry i cant get to the car to see how i did it. It was three
years since I built mine, but i do remember thinking it did not look
right the way i had it but it worked. Keep trying
[D55] "I seem to recall some posts about
cable lengths being different between early and late Stang donors.
Alls I can tell you is mine were from a 1990 LX and you know they
fit fine. Maybe the 87-89 are shorter than 90-93?"
[bd] "I just hooked mine up on Saturday
and came across the same thing, but it did reach and fit in the hole
although it was a little tighter than what I would have liked it to
be. I remember reading from other posts that it was tight but it
caused no problems in operation. Oh yeah, mine came from a '92'.
Don't quote me on this but I think the sheathing length on mine was
39" or anyway it ended with the #9 Cause I checked both cables
to see if they were different lengths. No such luck!"
[WC] "The driver side cable from my '88
was REALLY tight, but I did get it to reach. I'm not crazy about the
tight radius at the trans tunnel bracket, but it seems to work
[WL] "Me too. Mine was way shorter than I
am comfortable with. I checked the forum and got the same type of
responses you're getting. You can make it work, but it ain't quite
right. It works fine, and it won't bug you so much after you get the
aluminum and body on the car so you don't have to see it every
[dp] "Well I looked again and If I use a
pair of vise grips and a hammer I may be able to install the drivers
side em brake cable. As posted above: "Way too tight" for
me. It comes out the rear, is pinned tight against the top (unused
or moving) section of the coil spring and goes direct to the trans tunnel
holder where it will make a 90 degree into the holder. Probably
break the sheath if I could even get it there.
I will measure and post the length. If there
is a difference in length for different years, I will opt for the
I will post the part numbers and length."
[WC] "Yep, sounds just like my cable
[JC] "My cables run, rather crudely,
under one of the 4" cross tubes. They rub against it with no
chafe protection, guides, nuttin."
[ME] "For those of you that want a more
authentic looking e-brake, check out my new handle that will be
available at the beginning of the year. I would like to thank Bob
Aruda for helping get this part going. Mike FFR1234 http://people.ne.mediaone.net/katam25/index.htm
this part replaces the stock plastic pieces.
The FFR boot will fit right over this for a clean look. You cannot
screw it up. Installation shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. You don't
even have to remove the e-brake from the car.
How did you cut the e-brake handle?
[RT] "I found the cut off wheel much
[MR] "If you recline the passenger seat
by raising the front with a 1 3/4" riser block, and peel back
the seat cover and trim the corner off the fiberglass support, your
can leave the parking brake handle intact. When the parking brake is
engaged it just pushes the corner of the seat out of the way a bit.
And the slightly reclined seat is much more secure and
[WC] "Cut-off wheel. 60 second job."
[mi] "Cut off wheel..."
[to] "I used a reciprocating saw and had
it cut in less than a minute."
[sn] "dremel and cut off wheel"
[RS] "I got the idea for this setup from
Wayne Presley. The location allows you to reach the handle while
you're strapped in, and the Fiero handle folds back down after it's
[RS] "Also using Fiero e-brake handle on an
IRS. In fact, appears that you only need one of the cables that FFR
includes with the kit. The rest of the hardware is off my donor '97
Mark VIII. Appears Webshots blocks using a link to the photos. Here
is the direct link to the url : webshots
the photos are in the 3rd album
Unlike Redd Snake I'll have to mount the
handle above the floor as I used 1x2 .120 rectangular tubing to
reinforce the cockpit floor."
Here's the parts list for the left side e-brake
84-88 Fiero Lever Assy. PN: 56085 $39.95 www.fierostore.com
84-87 Front E-brake Cable PN: 56086 $25.95 www.fierostore.com
84-88 Black E-brake Boot PN: 56007 $24.95 www.fierostore.com
Stock Mustang E-brake cable (either side)
From Home Depot:
¼ Threaded rod w/Nylok nuts
¾ x 3 angled steel for Equalizer Bar
Grommets for cable exits
Cable ends (from West Marine)
The equalizer is made from ¾ angle steel
with an oversized hole for the threaded rod and slots cut into the
ends for the cables. I bent up the tips of the ends so that the
cables wouldnt slip off. The threaded rod allows for adjustment.
The left side cable is a straight shot down
the lower control arm. I used a Mustang cable, but Ill have to
shorten it quite a bit.
I routed the right side cable up and over the
rear end through the triangular spaces created where the 3/4 tube
supports the 2x3 corner joint. I used the Fiero cable because
the Mustang cable is too short to reach the new handle location. I
had to cut off about 3 of the Fiero cable (but did not cut or
shorten the housing itself) and swage on a new cable stop so that
the distance from the stop to the end of the cable housing matched
that of the Mustang cable.
I plan on weatherproofing the entire mechanism
with a removable aluminum cover. Only the cables to the rear side of
the grommets will be exposed to the elements. From here the cables
are routed to the drums/calipers.
Not sure how this would work with an IRS. As
long as the 3/4 and 2x2 tubes under the seat are the same, you
would get the same cable exit point. Not sure how the routing would
work from there.
Tom, as for seat clearance, this setup will
not interfere with Sube Clubmans. You bring up a good point, though,
as I am not sure if this location will clear the stock seats. If
they are wider than the Clubmans, it might be an issue.
More pictures can be found at: http://members12.clubphoto.com/brett550252/700754/owner-a89b.phtml
This is topic Fiero Left-Side E-Brake - FAQ
Follow-up with Pics in forum Roadster Grandstand at FFCars
CLICK THE PICTURES TO ENLARGE THEM
Posted by Redd Snake (Member # 242) on
October 21, 2002, 08:13 PM:
To visit this topic, use this URL:
I thought I would post a follow-up to an earlier thread (now in the
FAQ section) showing my Fiero E-brake installation. This
installation was done on a solid-axle car with Sube Clubman seats.
Thanks to John at My427SC.com for providing the free photo hosting
Homemade equalizer bar:
Cable ends "snapped" into 2" tubing
View from bottom:
I built a 3/4" tube "sub frame" flush with the bottom
of the 2" tube to mount a sheet metal weatherproof box to (see
photos later in thread):
Driver's side cable exit. I had to shorten the stock Mustang cable
and route it around the wheel along the lower control arm.
Posted by Redd Snake (Member # 242) on
October 21, 2002, 08:16 PM:
Here is the completed brake lever relative to the seat. Note that my
seat is positioned so that the inboard mounting track is bolted to
the inboard side of the main 4 frame tube (see welded-on tabs in
first photo). I am not sure where others are mounting their Clubmans,
but they might not clear the lever if they are further outboard.
Passenger side cable routing:
Go back to the FFR FAQ