This is topic Brake lines
done - whew! and hints. in forum Roadster Grandstand
at FFCars Discussion Forums.
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Posted by Barry Mattingly (Member #
509) on August 14, 2002, 03:48 PM:
Just thought I'd post on this...I've made a few brake lines
before, but for some reason all the rants on the various
Forums about bending, flaring, and leaking problems had me a
bit apprehensive about doing them on #3440. In addition, every
brake part on my car is unique (dual master cylinders, Wilwood
calipers, dual pressure retaining valves, rear hydraulic line
lock, brake pressure switch), so I couldn't just buy pre-made
lines without spending almost as much effort modifying them as
it would take to make them from scratch. And to top it off, I
wanted to use stainless line.
Wish I could post some pics - they came out great! The front
brake line (between calipers) has 8 bends (4 are compound
curves) and looks better than "factory" - this one
piece has given me more satisfaction than anything else I've
done so far.
Here's some hints for others about to do their own:
1. Buy a very good quality flaring tool and make some practice
flares. Rigid, KD, Snap-on, and Eastman tools (what I bought)
are great.
2. Buy a good bender - I used a $10 Harbor Freight tool and
regretted it, the radius of the bends is too large. Eastman
makes a really good one ($60) that will make a clean 1"
diameter bend, which makes it much easier to route lines
tightly around the footboxes and frame corners. Always clean
and oil the flaring bit for each flare!
Most important, practice bending a few lines and 'learn' your
bender - it's important to know how much line length is needed
for a 90 degree bend and where your reference marks should be
placed to get consistent bends (i.e. middle of the bend should
be at 45 degree line, etc.)
3. Mock up all of your lines using heavy solid wire (I used 10
gauge solid copper from the hardware store), and use them as templates
to bend and place your lines. VERY helpful!
4. Leave the ends about 1" longer than needed and only
trim/flare after you have the lines final fitted and placed
(trust me on this - you'll thank me later). Try to place a
coil, "S", or "U" bend on or near the ends
to allow for final adjustment (again, very helpful). I found U
bends to be the best looking and most useful.
5. Drill and tap the frame for 10-32 stainless cap head or
button head screws for the line clamps - they look far better
than the butt ugly FFR supplied screws, and are (IMHO) easier
to install.
Lastly, weld your rear brake line tabs in place. I forgot and
had to rivet some on. On an IRS car, place them in the
"inside" of the triangle formed by the short
diagonal 3/4" frame tube just above the wheel opening.
14" long soft lines worked fine all around, but 15"
might be better up front (would allow a "coil" in
the line).
Looks scha-weet and was actually fun in the end!
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